Grizzly G0580 - 14" Bandsaw 3/4 HP
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- Cast-iron frame
- Precision-ground cast-iron table
- Computer balanced cast-aluminum wheels with rubber tires
- Dual-hinged upper and lower wheel covers
- Upper and lower guide blocks with thrust bearings
- Open frame stand
- Includes one 3/8" 6-TPI hook blade, extruded aluminum fence and miter gauge
- Motor: 3/4 HP, 115V/230V, 9A/4.5A, single-phase, TEFC
- Prewired 115V
- Table size: 14" x 14" x 1-1/2"
- Table tilt: 45° right, 15° left
- Floor to table height: 43-7/8"
- Cutting capacity/throat: 13-1/2"
- Maximum cutting height: 6-1/4"(12" with the optional riser block installed)
- Blade size: 92-1/2" to 93-1/2" (1/8" to 3/4" wide)
- Blade speed: 3,000 FPM
- 4" dust port
- Overall size: 27 x 26 x 67-1/4 in.
- Approximate shipping weight.: 165 lbs.
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4 Customer Reviews (5 out of 5 stars): Sign in to write a review
I am very satisfied with the bandsaw but I have one problem with it. The rubber tires on the wheels are convex and it makes it very hard to get the blades to track and stay on the wheels. This should be a flat surface. It took me an hour to get a one eighth blade to stay on the wheels.
This is not a take it out of the box, add a couple of things and go saw. The setup directions are very poor, and you virtually have to put the whole saw together. The directions say (for ex: "see figure 1). The photo is minuscule and there is no way to see what they are talking about. Maybe someone who goes through a bunch of saws per year would have no trouble setting it up. I did get it together, but it took Wayyyyyyy too long. The blade that came with the saw was the worst I have ever used. It barely cut through anything. Threw it out after just a couple of cuts.
I bought this bandsaw about 4-weeks ago and found it to be all I had expected. As a retired machine-tool engineer I had a good idea what to expect and found it to be all or more.
There is a few areas like the sheet metal covers which could be somewhat sturdier, but am not complaining. It took quite a bit longer than the 1-hour claimed for assembly, but what else did I have to do? Most of the extra time was being very exact in doing the alignments? I must also compliment the driver of the SAIA deliver truck who was most helpful getting the box into my shop. Any future purchases like this will more than likely be Grizzly!
Common Questions and Answers about the G0580:
What is needed for converting this machine to 220V?
First, review the circuit requirements in the Owner's Manual to make sure you have the appropriate 220V power supply circuit and wall receptacle installed in your shop. Converting the machine to 220V involves (1) disconnecting saw from power supply, (2) cutting off existing power cord plug, (3) reconfiguring wire connections inside the motor junction box, and (4) installing the appropriate 220V plug (see Owner's Manual for full details). CAUTION: To reduce the risk of electrocution or fire, only an electrician or qualified service personnel should perform this procedure.
What is CSA? What does "CSA Certified" mean?
CSA (Canadian Standards Association) is an organization based out of Canada that is very similar to UL (Underwriters Laboratory) in the USA. Like UL, CSA provides two primary services. First, they develop Canada's minimum standards for the design, construction, and safety of a wide variety of products that are commercially sold in that country. These standards are completely voluntary and not a requirement for all products sold in Canada. Second, CSA acts as an NRTL (Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory), which is essentially a 3rd party testing agency that has their own engineers/inspectors test and evaluate a product to ensure that it meets the requirements established in the applicable standards document for the primary market where the products are sold. In Grizzly's case, this is the USA and Canada, so many Grizzly machines are certified (usually by CSA, UL, or ETL) to meet both CSA (Canada) and UL (USA) standards. So, although CSA produces their own standards, any NRTL (such as UL, ETL, TUV, etc.) can also certify the same products to the CSA standards. The reason why one NRTL is used over another typically just boils down to a business decision by the company paying the NRTL to test/evaluate their products. An important part of any NRTL certification, besides the initial testing/evaluation, is the ongoing compliance requirements necessary to maintain the certification. This involves both regular and random product checks by the NRTL's inspectors or engineers at the factory or on the consumer level.
If I put a riser block on my bandsaw, do I lose 6" of adjustment with the blade?
No, the riser block kits include a replacement guide post and blade guard, which allows the guide blocks to be adjusted within the full range of the additional 6" cutting height gained by its installation.
General Questions and Answers:
How do I know what type of blade I should buy?
Blade choice is typically determined by the type and purpose of cut, the hardness and thickness of wood, and the desired trade-offs between cutting speed vs. cutting quality. In general, a wider blade is preferred for cutting straight lines because the blade tends to wander less, and a narrower blade is preferred for cutting curves because it has a much tighter minimum cutting radius. The two main types of blade teeth are "Hook" and "Raker". Hook teeth tend to cut faster and leave rougher results, while Raker teeth tend to cut slower and leave smoother results. There are additional types of teeth, such as Skip, Positive Claw, or AS-S, that are essentially modified versions of the Hook or Raker tooth shapes, but with slight changes to the cutting angle, gullet-to-tooth ratio, tooth set, etc. to provide unique advantages for special types of cuts.
Can a metal bandsaw cut wood or vice versa?
The proper cutting speed for the majority of ferrous metals is under 300 FPM. The proper cutting speed for the majority of wood cuts is over 3000 FPM. Trying to cut metals on a wood bandsaw--at speeds 10 times faster than they should be--is dangerous and will likely result in a broken blade, damage to the bandsaw, and a really horrible cut. Cutting wood on a metal bandsaw is possible, but it would be tedious and slow, and likely would not produce a decent quality of cut. In addition, bandsaw blades for cutting wood are designed much differently than bandsaw blades for cutting metal. With that said, there are some soft, non-ferrous metals (such as aluminum) that can be cut at around 1500 FPM (if using the correct blade type). Although some of our wood bandsaws operate at approximately this same speed, the other components of these saws weren't designed to handle the metal chips and swarf that would be produced by the cut, which would likely result in minor damage to the machine and void the warranty. The bottom line is this: Always buy the right machine for the job!
What type of blade do I need for resawing?
Generally speaking, you'll want to use a wide blade (1/2" or larger) with "Hook" style teeth (or "Positive Claw" on Timberwolf blades) and a low number of teeth per inch (TPI). A wide blade helps ensure cuts are straight and the Hook style teeth have large gullets for removing material as the blade passes through the workpiece.
My bandsaw blade came with a tag on it that said "Recommended for cutting wood or soft non-ferrous metal." Does this mean I can cut metal with my wood bandsaw?
Just because the blade is recommended for both wood and soft, non-ferrous metal (e.g. aluminum, copper, etc.), it doesn't mean your wood bandsaw is suitable for cutting both types of material. It is important to keep in mind that the blade you bought may also be used on other types of bandsaws, such as our G0640X or G0621X, which are specially designed to cut both wood and metal.
What are the differences between ball bearing, block, and disc (a.k.a. "Euro style") guide blocks?
The main differences between blade guide types can be boiled down to four factors: (1) amount/quality of support, (2) amount of blade friction created from that support, (3) ease of set-up and adjustment, and (4) durability and maintenance frequency. Ball-bearing guides offer the best all-around balance of these four factors. Although they don't provide as much contact area for support as block or disc guides, they do maintain constant contact with the blade without greatly increasing friction. They are also the easiest to set up and tend to be the most durable. Disc guides provide the highest amount of contact area for support, but as with guide blocks, they must be positioned 0.004" away from the blade, which requires some type of gauge to be used for proper set up. Whereas some disc guides are fixed, similar to block guides, our Euro-Style disc guides spin with blade contact, which greatly reduces friction and the need for regular resurfacing. Block guides offer excellent support, but unless they're made from specialized materials to reduce wear or friction, they tend to fall behind the other guide types in all other categories.
What is the purpose of the pin that fits in the blade slot opening at the end of the table?
All bandsaw tables are inherently weaker on the outside half of the table. This is due to the slotted opening that allows the blade to pass through the table during blade changes. The table pin helps reinforce the two sides of the table around this slot, so they remain aligned with each other and keep the table flat. For this reason, it is extremely important to always keep the table pin firmly installed, unless you're changing blades.
In your catalog, I noticed table inserts being sold separately. Does this mean a table insert won't be included with a new saw?
No, table inserts are included with all of our new bandsaws. However, over the years we've noticed that a lot of customers like to purchase multiple table inserts, so we just include them on each bandsaw page to make it easier for customers to find and order the correct inserts for their saws.