Grizzly G1023RL - 10" 3 HP 240V Cabinet Left-Tilting Table Saw
- Motor: 3HP, 240V, single-phase, 14A, 3450 RPM
- Solid cast iron table is first heat treated for strength then milled perfectly flat & ground to a mirror-like finish
- Table size (with 2 solid extension wings attached) is 40" x 27"
- Table has T-slots so your miter gauge will not fall off the table when retracted
- 5/8" diameter arbor is long enough to accept dado blades up to 13/16"
- Extra large handwheels really ease arbor movement
- Quick change between riving knife & splitter guard
- Cutting capacity: 8" left, 26" right of blade
- Maximum depth of cut @ 90° 3"
- Maximum depth of cut @ 45° 2-1/8"
- 4" dust port included
- Magnetic safety switch is standard
- One piece steel cabinet type stand
- All sealed ball bearing construction
- Poly-V serpentine belt system transfers power more efficiently & with less noise than standard V-belts
- Powder coated paint
- Footprint: 20-1/2" x 20-1/2"
- Approximate shipping weight: 508 lbs.
- Includes 10" x 40T blade!
Accessories and Related Items:
You May Also Like:
Customers who purchased this item also purchased:
15 Customer Reviews (4.7 out of 5 stars): Sign in to write a review
My new G1023RL arrived this afternoon about 5:00pm. As I unpacked it, my excitement level grew exponentially. All I can say is WOW!!!. I have had my eye on this saw (or a similar Grizzly) for more than a year now. I cannot express into words how much this saw met and exceeded all my expectations from the moment I uncrated it, to the moment I fired it up for the first time tonight (getting goose bumps again). It probably doesn't mean much to you all, but when you've been working on a $100.00 Delta contractor saw for the last 10yrs., trying to put out quality woodworking pieces, having something of this caliber, suggests what I've always known. There is no limit to what you can build, when you have the right piece of quality machinery at your fingertips.
As I told my son earlier this evening (while assembling the G1023RL), "you might as well help me put this thing together son, when I'm gone, it will be yours."
Thank you all for your patience with me over the past few weeks (while it was on backorder). I hope I didn't bother everyone too much. But then again, shoot, I'd do it all over again for my next Grizzly machine.
I'm not sure where to start. The packing and crating for this saw was excellent. There wasn't a scratch on the paint or any pieces dislodged when I opened the package. This saw is heavy and very well made. I've been exposed to lots of machinery in my lifetime and I can say with all honesty that this saw is well made and well refined. I know it when I se it. I did a lot of research on table saws before I made a decision to buy and NONE compared to this machine for dollar value and quality. I do own other Grizzly woodworking machines and I'm very pleased with the performance of their equipment. This saw is heavy duty and fits well in my limited space wood shop. The saw was pretty well set up right from the factory. The blade being parallel with the miter slot was right on, blade being at 90 degrees with the table was right on, 90 degree cross-cut was right on and so forth. This told me that Grizzly pays attention to detail when they set this saw up. It passed the "nickel test" and runs very smooth and quiet for such a powerful machine. The shop fox fence works well, but I did encounter a small issue with the fence. There was a couple of small nylon sliders missing and the measuring tape was damaged. I called Grizzly Customer Service and they took care of the problem right away, no questions asked. Anytime I have contacted Grizzly for assistance, they have been excellent and in today's world you don't get that very often. They are second to none for Customer Service and that is worth many dollars. So if you are looking for a quality table saw Grizzly is the place to invest. You won't be disappointed with the machine or the company. I love my table saw G1023RL
Making such a big ticket item without actually seeing the product is daunting - at least it was for me. I relied heavily on the reviews, online videos and various forum discussions, and came to the conclusion that Grizzly made good products. This is an excellent saw at what I feel is a decent price, also comparing it to the competition. The fit and finish is comparable to saw priced much higher. The cast iron table and movement controls appear to be comparable as well. Customer service was excellent. I decided to write a review to provide others who are trying to decide another data point.
My search for a table saw started months ago first considering the hybrids saws (including the G0715P), but found myself gravitating towards the cabinet saws in the showrooms (I guess they can be considered showrooms) due to the extra power, sturdiness and full cabinet. The main reason that I started with the hybrids was due to footprint (space limitations) and price. I'm glad that I had the opportunity to actually see the hybrids and to compare them to the cabinet saws because I realized that my space concerns were unfounded since they have similar footprints.
So with the space concerns gone, I expanded my search to include cabinets. However, those other brands were not within my budget. This brought me back to Grizzly and the G1023. In addition, it was on sale. I order it on Thursday and received it the following Tuesday. I put it together over two evenings. Not because it was difficult toe do, but rather I read through the manual, and checked and double checked the alignments: blade to rails, rails to fence, wings to table, divider to blade, miter, and blade angle. I only had to tweak the fence. Everything else was in good alignment.
I picked up a 6-15p receptacle and made an extension cord for the 220VAC and fired it up. Well this thing was very smooth. I started looking around the garage for pieces of wood to test cuts and this thing was many times nicer that the inexpensive construction table saw that I am replacing/supplementing.
My progression in the saw world has been this: circular saw used to make a stereo cabinet from plywood many years ago. I graduated to the construction saw that I used to rip wood flooring and felt it was much nicer than the circular saw. Later I picked up a miter saw for a deck project. All of these are Craftsman and purchased before the internet and with very little research, but all still are in very good working order. Now I got this table saw and my plans are to make the cabinets for our retirement home among other project. The high quality of this saw has me very motivated to get started and I hope that it continues to live up to my first impressions
Very glad I went with this table saw. I had been thinking of buying a Powermatic or Saw Stop but was having a hard time justifying the price, then I decided to look at Grizzly. I read a lot of good reviews on the grizzly saws and had one picked out, or I thought I had one picked out. Just before I placed my order for a saw I decided to talk to the people in tech support and try to see if one saw was better than another and if so why. I was on the phone for some time and the guy that helped me was great, I received a lot of info on the different saws. Long story short, I bought this one and it is great. It is a lot of saw for the money. I had no issues with the set up, and it has plenty of power. This saw will meet all of my needs. I have used Saw Stops before and other than the safety feature they have, this saw is just as nice in every way. Do not hesitate to call tech support if you are in the market for a saw as they have a lot of good info and are more than happy to help. If it was not for them I may not have purchased the Grizzly saw.
I bought a Grizzly planer and jointer last year at the Muncy, PA facility just before it closed and got to see them before purchase. So I was a bit apprehensive about purchasing the saw sight-unseen. But the other machinery was good quality so I took the plunge, and it has worked out great. Ordered it on Friday Dec 30, and it arrived at my workplace (where we have a loading dock) the following Thursday.
The packaging was great. Not a scratch on anything. I unpacked it in my garage on the utility trailer and took all the boxes with piece/parts to the basement workshop. Then I used an appliance dolly, and a friend, to take the main saw down the stairs with no issue. Spent about 5hrs Saturday just tinkering to put it together, including the mobile base unit I purchased. I was being very careful to adjust everything as I wanted to get it right. Everything assembled per instructions. First time I fired it up, it was smooth and quiet. I set the fence for 3" and ripped a piece of 7/8 cherry. Made a perfect cut. I had looked at SawStop, Powermatic, Jet and some others. But this saw is nearly half the price of the others and certainly appears to be every bit as good.
I only had 2 minor issues, both with the ShopFox fence. During installation of the front angle bracket they tell you to align the top of the bracket to the bottom of the bevel of the saw top. Then during the installation of the tube the fence rides on, they tell you that if your saw has a beveled top, you need to install a 3/8 spacer (not supplied) between the angle bracket and tube to get the right height for the fence. I spent a half hour making some spacers then found out that for this saw they are completely unnecessary. So ignore the spacer comment on the fence installation for this saw.
The second issue is the magnified sight window on the fence to see the measuring tape. It has a bubble top, so setting it on an exact 3", for instance, depends on how you move your head. If you are not looking straight down on it, you will be a bit to the left or right. But I will get used to this I guess over time.
So a day into it, I am very happy with the saw. I will be giving it a good workout next week building by daughter some built-in shelving for her new house.
I purchased this saw and do like Grizzly table saws. But I have one gripe about this one, it has a poor dust collecting shroud around the blade. They built this one with a split dust hose 2 inch which removes some dust around blade and some from bottom of the saw . Jet has a 4 inch hose coming from blade shroud, don't know which works best. The shop fox fence is not that good, old style fence that you have to bump side to side to set on measurements, a real pain, plus the bubble is hard to read. I am changing it for a Incra TS-LS fence system that is more percise and accurate. The switch is to far back under the fence rail to reach comfortable, I had to move it out further also.
\r\nIt is a very good and solid saw, fence is very good a easy to adjust..
The saw is being used in a manufacturing facility for making everything from skids and crates to trimming polycarbonate for control panels. It is accurate, powerful, and very well made. It has made this area of the plant more productive and has proven to be nearly fool proof in use.
Bought saw a month ago upgraded from contractor saw huge difference so glad I made purchase.
Overall I like the saw but I would like to nit-pick a few things. I wish the fence rails would extend far enough left to get the full 16" rip left of the blade instead of only 8 inches.
I would like pre-drilled holes on the right end of the rails to hang a table extension. I built a laminate top to fit the 16" gap because I banged my hip on the rails every time I walked by it. I had to rig a bottom support between the front and back rails to hold up the far end of the top. I would like to see an accessory extention offered to have a few more inches of rip capacity to the right. The 7 ft rail is just too long for my shop. Also, the Shop Fox fence seems much heavier than necessary and doesn't slide very easily. My old Delta with its "Uni-fence" was light weight but compleatly ridgid.
The blade guard and riving knife are great but the release lever is hard to reach and I bruise my arm on the door opening when the lever snaps open. Another small anoyance is the location of the switch. It is too far under the front rail so I turned it around on its mount but now I accidentally hit the off button with my knee. Guess I will have to put it back.
It is a good solid built saw. My previous saw from HD was horrible when it came to blade height and tilt adjustment but it did lasted about 12 years. The one before that was a Sears contractor's saw which lasted 24 years. I have had this saw for a few months now and so far, so good.\r\n
have had our g1023rl for a couple of months now. couldn't be happier with its performance!! looks great too!!!
Common Questions and Answers about the G1023RL:
What are the main differences between the G1023RL-Series and the G0690-Series table saws?
Aside from color and outward appearances, there are 6 primary differences between these series of machines: the drive system, dust extraction components, switch lock-ability, blade guard spreader/riving knife release mechanism, the fence, and the country of origin.
What is the difference between the G1023RL-Series and G0690-Series belt-drive systems?
The G1023RL-series features a poly-V "Serpentine" belt-drive system, which is quieter and transfers power more efficiently than a standard single V-belt drive system. The G0690-series features a triple V-belt drive system, which does a better job of maintaining a consistent transfer of power when under load than a standard single V-belt drive system.
What is the difference between the G1023RL-Series and G0690-Series dust extraction systems?
The G1023RL-series encapsulates the underside of the blade with a dust hood that is connected directly to the dust port via an internal dust hose. This allows a dust collector to remove the majority of dust that falls through the table, and it helps keep the other components inside the cabinet clean. This system requires less cleaning and maintenance than that of saws where the dust falls straight through to the bottom of the cabinet. The G0690-series has a fully-enclosed cabinet with a sloped bottom that allows gravity to direct incoming dust toward the dust port.
What is the difference between the G1023RL-Series and G0690-Series mag switches?
The G1023RL-series features a lockable mag switch with an included key-lock padlock. The G0690-series features a mag switch that can also be disabled from accidental use with a special pin, but it does not accommodate a padlock, so it can't be completely locked.
What is the difference between the G1023RL-Series and G0690-Series blade guard spreader/riving knife release mechanism?
The G1023RL-series is equipped with a quick-release lever to unlock/lock the spreader/riving knife when changing between blade guards. The G0690-series is equipped with an easily-accessible knurled knob that unlocks/locks the spreader/riving knife with a quick rotation.
What is the difference between the G1023RL-Series and G0690-Series fence?
The G1023RL-series features the hugely popular Shop Fox Classic Fence, which has been a customer favorite for nearly two decades due to its adjustment simplicity and performance reliability. The G0690-series fence is very similar to the Shop Fox Classic Fence in all ways, except that it locks against the front rail on three sides instead of two. Aside from allowing it to lock more firmly in place, the added side of rail contact also provides an additional axis of adjustability when calibrating fence accuracy.
General Questions and Answers:
How do I know which size of motor I'll need for my table saw?
Assuming the correct blade is installed for any specific type of cut, the answer primarily depends on these three factors: (1) your average stock thickness, (2) your typical wood type or variety, and (3) your anticipated cutting frequency or overall demands placed on the saw. First, it is important to note that with a slow enough feed rate, any of our table saws can cut through a piece of hardwood up to that saw's maximum cutting height. Unfortunately, using too slow of a feed rate can result in burn marks in your workpiece, and using a feed rate that is so aggressive that it causes a motor to bog down will quickly increase the motor's internal temperature to a state of thermal breakdown. Once a motor reaches this state, continued operation (without allowing sufficient cool-down time between cuts) will result in the motor becoming so hot that its winding insulation will completely fail and the motor will die. A larger motor, however, could easily perform the exact same type of work without ever reaching a state of thermal breakdown. With that in mind, your goal should be to select a motor size that will handle the majority of what you'll be cutting on a regular basis, without bogging the motor down. To translate this into a more practical perspective, generally speaking, a 1.5 HP motor used with an aggressive feed rate can repeatedly cut 6/4 (1.5") soft woods and 4/4 (1") hardwoods without bogging down. A 3 HP motor, on the other hand, can repeatedly cut the same type of stock with the same type of feed rate at approximately twice that size without bogging down.
What are the differences between contractor, hybrid, and cabinet saws?
A "Contractor" table saw is generally a light-duty saw with an open-stand and is usually equipped with a 1.5 HP to 2 HP motor that can be operated on a common 120V power supply, making it portable and convenient enough to take from jobsite to jobsite for carpentry work, trim work, and small cabinetry or furniture work. To keep the weight down, contractor saws often use sheet-metal wings instead of cast-iron wings, and their trunnions and other internal components use less cast iron or steel, making them much less beefy than those same components used in cabinet saws. A few other typical hallmarks of contractor saws are non-enclosed motors (making them slightly louder and sometimes resulting in a lack of dust collection) and trunnions mounted to the bottom of the table instead of the cabinet (making them slightly more difficult to align the blade to the miter slot or fence). The lighter-duty components used in their construction typically means that contractor saws also cost less than other saw types. The low cost, high portability, and convenience of operating on a 120V power supply, combined with included fence systems that often rival those used on cabinet saws, has historically made the contractor saw a favorite option for the hobbyist or beginning woodworker. A "Cabinet" table saw is a heavy-duty saw with an enclosed cabinet-style stand and usually a 3 HP or larger motor that operates on a 240V power supply, making it the top choice for professional woodworkers, serious amateurs, or production shops that require day-in and day-out reliability and the ability to regularly cut thick hardwoods. Unlike contractor saws, cabinet saws have much thicker castings for the trunnions and arbor assembly, which attach to the cabinet instead of the table (making blade alignment adjustments easier), and they usually have full cast-iron wings, which combined with the beefier trunnions and heavy cabinet stand, give them a lot more vibration-dampening weight. Additionally, the enclosed cabinet stands result in quieter operation and usually have much better dust collection. A "Hybrid" table saw is a newer category of saw that is considered to be a cross between a contractor saw and a cabinet saw. Like cabinet saws, hybrid saws typically have cabinets or stands with enclosed motors (providing quieter operation and easier dust collection) and trunnions that mount to the stand (making blade alignment adjustments easier). Like contractor saws, hybrids are generally constructed with lighter-duty components and materials (keeping costs and overall weight down), and they are usually equipped with 1.5 HP to 2 HP motors (allowing them to operate on a common 120V power supply). Because hybrid saws are often priced near contractor saws and they offer many of the additional benefits that cabinet saws provide over contractor saws, they are quickly becoming the saw of choice for the serious hobbyist or the professional woodworker on a budget.
How do I know what type of blade I should buy?
Blade choice is determined by the type and purpose of cut, hardness and thickness of stock, and desired trade-offs between cutting speed versus cut quality. Generally speaking, a blade with fewer teeth cuts faster but makes a lower quality cut, and a blade with more teeth cuts slower but makes a higher quality cut. We offer a wide variety of blades from a handful of different manufacturers. All of our blades are clearly designated by either blade function, cut type, or material type.
What is the purpose of the riving knife?
The riving knife is used for non-through cuts. It is a metal plate positioned in alignment behind the blade to prevent the newly-cut workpiece sides from pinching on or pushing against the backside of the blade and causing kickback. The riving knife also acts as a barrier behind the blade to reduce the risk of hands being pulled into the blade if they are positioned incorrectly when kickback occurs.
Can I still use my table saw without connecting it to a dust collector?
Yes, but we don't recommend it. Without using a dust collector, the dust will quickly pile up inside and around your machine, resulting in additional cleaning time later. Besides making a mess, fine dust can be harmful to your respiratory system. A better choice is to connect your table saw to a properly-designed dust collection system that at least pulls the recommended minimum CFM for your saw's dust port.
Can I cut metal or other non-wood materials with your table saws?
Although our table saws will physically cut many different types of materials, they are only designed to cut natural wood or wood-based materials (plywood, MDF, OSB, etc.). Cutting materials not intended to be cut on a woodworking table saw can result in serious injury to the operator or bystanders, and it could decrease the life of the saw and void the warranty.