Grizzly G1023RLX - 10" 3 HP 240V Cabinet Left-Tilting Table Saw with Extension Table
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Free shipping within the Contiguous United States.
Sales of this outlet item are limited to quantity on hand.
Free shipping within the Contiguous United States.
Sales of this outlet item are limited to quantity on hand.
- This is the one you've been waiting for! Featuring 53" of rip capacity, a quick-release bade guard, interchangeable riving knife, encapsulated-blade dust extraction, and a highly efficient serpentine belt/pulley system that runs much quieter and smoother than its predecessor. This left-tilting table saw includes the tremendously popular Shop Fox® Classic fence and heavy-duty extension table. Best of all, everything is included for one low price, making this one of the greatest package deals available anywhere. CSA certified meeting CSA C22.2 #71.2-08 and UL 987 standards!
- Motor: 3 HP, 240V, single-phase, 14A, 3450 RPM
- Solid cast iron table is first heat treated for strength then milled perfectly flat and ground to a mirror-like finish
- Extension table: 44" x 27"
- Table has T-slots so your miter gauge will not fall off the table when retracted
- 5/8" diameter arbor is long enough to accept dado blades up to 13/16"
- Extra large handwheels are the heaviest in the industry and really ease arbor movement
- One piece steel cabinet type stand
- Quick change between riving knife and splitter guard
- Cutting capacity: 8" left and 53" right of blade
- Maximum depth of cut @ 90°: 3"
- Maximum depth of cut @ 45°: 2-1/8"
- 7' rails
- All sealed ball-bearing construction
- Poly-V serpentine belt system transfers power more efficiently and with less noise than standard V-belts
- Dust port: 4"
- Magnetic safety switch
- Powder coated paint
- Footprint: 20-1/2" x 20-1/2"
- Approximate shipping weight: 550 lbs.
- Includes 10" x 40T blade!
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15 Customer Reviews (4.5 out of 5 stars): Sign in to write a review
This is a good saw but we have had two problems. We had to replace the extension table as it is made out of flimsy 1/2" MDF. We replaced it with 3/4" melamine coated plywood. We also had to replace the arbor wrench wrench as the open end arms failed. We had a local metal shop cut one out of 3/16" steel with wider arms for greater strength.
I bought this saw as a second saw for my workshop. I have 2 complaints with this saw. The first is the crank on the blade height adjuster is VERY HARD to turn. Sometimes I have to get down on a chair so I can get enough leverage to turn the crank. My delta Unisaw (which I have had for many years) adjusts very easily. I can spin the crank with one hand.
My second complaint is the time it takes for this saw to stop after it is turned off. It spins forever. It should have a brake like my radial arm saw. My Unisaw stops in about 5 seconds. This one takes about 15. That doesn't sound like much but when you stand their all day long waiting for it, it gets real old real fast.
I make kitchen cabinets and my saws run all day long. All in all this is a nice saw, just not as good as it could be.
I owned a business and I had many tools from Grizzly most tools were over 25 years old and they all still worked with not many problems and I sold them all at a auction and moved out of the state. Now I need a few tools for my personal use and I will buy all Grizzly Tools again. I have not used the table saw yet waiting on getting the electric hooked up in my garage.
Saw is great would recommend this saw. Just wish your costumer service was as good as the saw. The worst service ever in my 65 years on plant earth. Much to much to write about. Happy sawing
Have had this saw for a month now and operates as advertised. Wasn't happy to find out the extension wing was a melamine mdf, a warped one at that. This will probably not last long as we cut a lot of sheet goods and will have to order a steel replacement in a year. Overall a decent saw.
the table saw is amazing. plenty of power with a quiet motor. I was not happy with the assembly. I had two manuals telling me different things and in the end I had to buy new hardware to make the table legs work correctly. The blade and the main table align perfectly without adjustment so that was great to see.
This has been great so far i really like it . I would recommend this to anyone .
I got my saw a few weeks ago and now have it set up and running. I went to check the alignment and got a surprise. I put my dial indicator on the blade to check the run out and the needle did not move. I thought my indicator was stuck, but it wasn't. It was dead on. I checked the other alignments and they were all right on the money. The saw was easy to set up, even by myself with no help. I could not be happier. The fence was very good, better than what I was used to. The only thing I could see that could be better was the curser. The parallax was more than I would like to see. Thanks for a great saw.
I got more than I paid for and better than anything else twice it's price. I've been a professional Industrial Maintenance Tech for many years, and setting up machines is nothing new to me. Set up with this was a bit more difficult than I expected until I went out and replace all of the SAE ungraded nuts and bolts with quality grade 8 plated hardware. After doing that set up was a breeze and everything dialed in perfectly. If it wasn't for the ungraded hardware, I would give it a 5+, but as it comes in the crate I'll give it a 4.5.
Just change out the hardware and you'll have a GREAT machine. Only one small gripe from me is something to brag about for sure.
Common Questions and Answers about the G1023RLX:
What are the main differences between the G1023RL-Series and the G0690-Series table saws?
Aside from color and outward appearances, there are 6 primary differences between these series of machines: the drive system, dust extraction components, switch lock-ability, blade guard spreader/riving knife release mechanism, the fence, and the country of origin.
What is the difference between the G1023RL-Series and G0690-Series belt-drive systems?
The G1023RL-series features a poly-V "Serpentine" belt-drive system, which is quieter and transfers power more efficiently than a standard single V-belt drive system. The G0690-series features a triple V-belt drive system, which does a better job of maintaining a consistent transfer of power when under load than a standard single V-belt drive system.
What is the difference between the G1023RL-Series and G0690-Series dust extraction systems?
The G1023RL-series encapsulates the underside of the blade with a dust hood that is connected directly to the dust port via an internal dust hose. This allows a dust collector to remove the majority of dust that falls through the table, and it helps keep the other components inside the cabinet clean. This system requires less cleaning and maintenance than that of saws where the dust falls straight through to the bottom of the cabinet. The G0690-series has a fully-enclosed cabinet with a sloped bottom that allows gravity to direct incoming dust toward the dust port.
What is the difference between the G1023RL-Series and G0690-Series mag switches?
The G1023RL-series features a lockable mag switch with an included key-lock padlock. The G0690-series features a mag switch that can also be disabled from accidental use with a special pin, but it does not accommodate a padlock, so it can't be completely locked.
What is the difference between the G1023RL-Series and G0690-Series blade guard spreader/riving knife release mechanism?
The G1023RL-series is equipped with a quick-release lever to unlock/lock the spreader/riving knife when changing between blade guards. The G0690-series is equipped with an easily-accessible knurled knob that unlocks/locks the spreader/riving knife with a quick rotation.
What is the difference between the G1023RL-Series and G0690-Series fence?
The G1023RL-series features the hugely popular Shop Fox Classic Fence, which has been a customer favorite for nearly two decades due to its adjustment simplicity and performance reliability. The G0690-series fence is very similar to the Shop Fox Classic Fence in all ways, except that it locks against the front rail on three sides instead of two. Aside from allowing it to lock more firmly in place, the added side of rail contact also provides an additional axis of adjustability when calibrating fence accuracy.
General Questions and Answers:
How do I know which size of motor I'll need for my table saw?
Assuming the correct blade is installed for any specific type of cut, the answer primarily depends on these three factors: (1) your average stock thickness, (2) your typical wood type or variety, and (3) your anticipated cutting frequency or overall demands placed on the saw. First, it is important to note that with a slow enough feed rate, any of our table saws can cut through a piece of hardwood up to that saw's maximum cutting height. Unfortunately, using too slow of a feed rate can result in burn marks in your workpiece, and using a feed rate that is so aggressive that it causes a motor to bog down will quickly increase the motor's internal temperature to a state of thermal breakdown. Once a motor reaches this state, continued operation (without allowing sufficient cool-down time between cuts) will result in the motor becoming so hot that its winding insulation will completely fail and the motor will die. A larger motor, however, could easily perform the exact same type of work without ever reaching a state of thermal breakdown. With that in mind, your goal should be to select a motor size that will handle the majority of what you'll be cutting on a regular basis, without bogging the motor down. To translate this into a more practical perspective, generally speaking, a 1.5 HP motor used with an aggressive feed rate can repeatedly cut 6/4 (1.5") soft woods and 4/4 (1") hardwoods without bogging down. A 3 HP motor, on the other hand, can repeatedly cut the same type of stock with the same type of feed rate at approximately twice that size without bogging down.
What are the differences between contractor, hybrid, and cabinet saws?
A "Contractor" table saw is generally a light-duty saw with an open-stand and is usually equipped with a 1.5 HP to 2 HP motor that can be operated on a common 120V power supply, making it portable and convenient enough to take from jobsite to jobsite for carpentry work, trim work, and small cabinetry or furniture work. To keep the weight down, contractor saws often use sheet-metal wings instead of cast-iron wings, and their trunnions and other internal components use less cast iron or steel, making them much less beefy than those same components used in cabinet saws. A few other typical hallmarks of contractor saws are non-enclosed motors (making them slightly louder and sometimes resulting in a lack of dust collection) and trunnions mounted to the bottom of the table instead of the cabinet (making them slightly more difficult to align the blade to the miter slot or fence). The lighter-duty components used in their construction typically means that contractor saws also cost less than other saw types. The low cost, high portability, and convenience of operating on a 120V power supply, combined with included fence systems that often rival those used on cabinet saws, has historically made the contractor saw a favorite option for the hobbyist or beginning woodworker. A "Cabinet" table saw is a heavy-duty saw with an enclosed cabinet-style stand and usually a 3 HP or larger motor that operates on a 240V power supply, making it the top choice for professional woodworkers, serious amateurs, or production shops that require day-in and day-out reliability and the ability to regularly cut thick hardwoods. Unlike contractor saws, cabinet saws have much thicker castings for the trunnions and arbor assembly, which attach to the cabinet instead of the table (making blade alignment adjustments easier), and they usually have full cast-iron wings, which combined with the beefier trunnions and heavy cabinet stand, give them a lot more vibration-dampening weight. Additionally, the enclosed cabinet stands result in quieter operation and usually have much better dust collection. A "Hybrid" table saw is a newer category of saw that is considered to be a cross between a contractor saw and a cabinet saw. Like cabinet saws, hybrid saws typically have cabinets or stands with enclosed motors (providing quieter operation and easier dust collection) and trunnions that mount to the stand (making blade alignment adjustments easier). Like contractor saws, hybrids are generally constructed with lighter-duty components and materials (keeping costs and overall weight down), and they are usually equipped with 1.5 HP to 2 HP motors (allowing them to operate on a common 120V power supply). Because hybrid saws are often priced near contractor saws and they offer many of the additional benefits that cabinet saws provide over contractor saws, they are quickly becoming the saw of choice for the serious hobbyist or the professional woodworker on a budget.
How do I know what type of blade I should buy?
Blade choice is determined by the type and purpose of cut, hardness and thickness of stock, and desired trade-offs between cutting speed versus cut quality. Generally speaking, a blade with fewer teeth cuts faster but makes a lower quality cut, and a blade with more teeth cuts slower but makes a higher quality cut. We offer a wide variety of blades from a handful of different manufacturers. All of our blades are clearly designated by either blade function, cut type, or material type.
What is the purpose of the riving knife?
The riving knife is used for non-through cuts. It is a metal plate positioned in alignment behind the blade to prevent the newly-cut workpiece sides from pinching on or pushing against the backside of the blade and causing kickback. The riving knife also acts as a barrier behind the blade to reduce the risk of hands being pulled into the blade if they are positioned incorrectly when kickback occurs.
Can I still use my table saw without connecting it to a dust collector?
Yes, but we don't recommend it. Without using a dust collector, the dust will quickly pile up inside and around your machine, resulting in additional cleaning time later. Besides making a mess, fine dust can be harmful to your respiratory system. A better choice is to connect your table saw to a properly-designed dust collection system that at least pulls the recommended minimum CFM for your saw's dust port.
Can I cut metal or other non-wood materials with your table saws?
Although our table saws will physically cut many different types of materials, they are only designed to cut natural wood or wood-based materials (plywood, MDF, OSB, etc.). Cutting materials not intended to be cut on a woodworking table saw can result in serious injury to the operator or bystanders, and it could decrease the life of the saw and void the warranty.