Grizzly G1023RLW - 10" 3 HP 240V Cabinet Left-Tilting Table Saw
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- Motor: 3 HP, 240V, single-phase, 14A
- Solid cast-iron table is first heat treated to remove warpage, then milled perfectly flat & ground to a mirror like finish
- Fully assembled table size: 48"W x 27"D
- Table has T-slots so your miter gauge will not fall off the table when retracted
- 5/8" diameter arbor is long enough to accept dado blades up 7/8"
- Extra large handwheels are the heaviest in the industry and really ease arbor movement
- Cutting capacity: 8" left and 25-5/8" right of blade
- Maximum depth of cut @ 90° 3"
- Maximum depth of cut @ 45° 2-1/8"
- 4" dust port included
- Magnetic safety switch
- One piece steel cabinet type stand
- All sealed ball bearing construction
- Serpentine drive belt
- Powder coated paint
- Quick change between riving knife & splitter guard
- Base dimension: 20-1/2" x 20-1/2"
- Approximate shipping weight: 550 lbs.
- Includes 10" x 40T blade!
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13 Customer Reviews (4.8 out of 5 stars): Sign in to write a review
I'm a hobbyist woodworker and have been for 40+ years. I have a small shop (9' wide x 27' long) with a small assembly / paint area also. I've been using my Grizzly G0700 for years (small slider) and love it, but my interests have changed and I do mostly turning, segmented turning and small flat work. So I put the slider in storage and got this, which is the smallest cabinet saw I could find that still has the features I want.
I have no interest at all in the router capability because that side is butted against a wall, so I have no comment on that here.
It was shipped to my office/warehouse and a bunch of friends helped me put it in my shop. I had a friend help with the table extensions and you will definitely want to do the same. I've done this before and, while doable with a dead man helper or whatever, far, far better with help. Also, take the time to make sure the extensions are flat. Mine arrived dead flat and perfectly registered with the table.
So assembly is straightforward, and mostly easy. I had no issues at all and even a newbie should be able to do this pretty easily if you follow the directions. I was up and running in about an hour and a half, and when I started checking the saw for square and parallel, found that it needed zero adjusting on any aspect. I was pretty surprised and checked a couple more times but, nope, no adjustments needed. The fence assembly mounted absolutely parallel to the blade and this was also surprising because I generally have found that, with the past half dozen saws I've purchased, it was needed.
On to operating. I like the fence pretty well although it is a bit stiff, and I really would have liked a built-in T-track on top but that's okay I can add later. The bevel gauge is easier to read than my G0700, and the wheels are better quality also. However, the height adjust wheel is still a bit on the stiff side for my taste. The miter gauge is, like virtually every saw shipping, not that great so I bought a Kreg (as opposed to the Incra) that I prefer and it works like a champ with this saw.
the magnetic switch is nice and I like that I can just shut off the machine without having to fumble about with a tiny switch. It ships with a padlock - very handy for those of you who may have small or unauthorized people around.
The motor is very quiet for its capability and provides plenty of torque. I haven't worked with any thick hardwoods yet, but the 4/4 oak, 3/4 birch ply, and a bunch of 2/4 I've ripped cut like butter. Of course, I don't use the blade that ships and never do so I don't know if it's any good. I have a very nice Ridge Carbide and a backup Freud, both 80 tooth, that I use. Smooth as silk with this saw.
Dust control is a bit better than I'm accustomed to with the slider and I like that you can just open the cabinet and grab big stuff. With the 0700, I was constantly dealing with pieces clogging the hose.
Also, for me this is a left-tilt saw which was a key reason to make this purchase. Some cuts really can't be easily done with a right-tilt slider, if at all.
All-in all, I'm very pleased with this purchase. To give you some perspective on other tools I own: Jet 1642 lathe, VB36 lathe, Grizzly 17" band saw, Grizzly G0700 sliding table saw, Ridgid floor standing drill press and lunch box planer, Jet oscillating edge sander, Festook Kapex miter saw, Jet 16-32 sander, Shop fox belt / disc sander, Grizzly 1 1/2 hp closed cabinet shaper. I like Grizzly and tend to purchase from them but not exclusively so and am always looking for the best value. I think that this table saw offers that and may well be the last saw I have to buy.
This review documents my experience and rating with ordering,delivery and assembling Grizzly 1023 RLW tablesaw.
After extensive online research and retail visits I chose this saw to replace a fine, but very old Craftsman tablesaw.
âï¸âï¸âï¸âï¸âï¸ Ordering: unless your lucky enough to live in Bellington WA or Springfield, MO you can not kick the tires nor test ride a Grizzly product. All ordering is on line. I chose to order direct thru Customer Service. Every CS I spoke with over the past two weeks has been very helpful. My order was shipped the same day I ordered it!
âï¸ Delivery ðŸ“¦: I was delighted and surprised that my delivery was to arrive the same week it was ordered. And I did not have to place a separate order for a catalog as the Grizzly website says a catalog ships with every order.
I will preface the delivery problems that occurred over the next two weeks by saying that Grizzly was only 1/3 of the problem.
The saw did not arrive as predicted. Because delivery is by semi you must have an accessible driveway and a forklift OR order lift gate service. Upon learning this I immediately contacted the freight company (SAIA) to change the delivery address (to a local business with a fork lift and local delivery service) SAIA in turn needed authorization from Grizzly to ok the change of address. Both Grizzly and SAIA dropped the ball in getting the authorization ok'd. In the interim I called both companies repeatedly to find out where my saw was located and what was needed to get it delivered. I was then told,10 days after ordering, that my shipment was to deliver on Thursday between 11-4pm. By 3pm there had been no delivery, so I called SAIA. SAIA apologized for the confusion and inconvenience but they passed the delivery onto another freight company and they only deliver to my area in northern Wisconsin on Mondays and Thursday. I was assured the driver would call on Monday one hour before arriving. So I would again wait 4 days.
But wait there's good news. The very next day I received a call from the semi driver. He was in town but lost. He made the delivery and by Friday noon I had my saw!!
THE MORALE TO THIS STORY: KNOW YOUR SHIPPING RESTRICTIONS AND DO NOT CHANGE YOUR DELIVERY ADDRESS!!!!
BTW I did not receive a catalog!!!
âï¸âï¸âï¸ Tablesaw Assembly: There are three manuals used in the set up of this saw. The instructions are vague in places, there are typos and there is a need for more tools then provided or indicated.
Three major concerns 1. When installing the front rectangular tube, that guides the fence, there are 2 ways to mount it. Overhang the rail to the left for using the fence to the left of blade (less popular) or to the right (more typical. See the colored picture on line for clarification). 2. You will need a very large allen wrench to install the on/off switch brace. 3. When locking the fence down the resistance should be immediately firm. The locking assembly on the fence includes a free swinging bar located just behind the handle. I found out the hard way that when placing the fence on the table that bar will swing up and out of position. When this occurs the locking handle moves easily. I chipped the paint on the tube when that bar was out of position and I pushed down on the handle.
I take great pride in providing fair and informative reviews. I hope this will help others to make good choices.
This is a great saw. I wish I would have bought it years ago. Took some time to set up but once done everything works well. The router attachment brackets did not work with my router. I just drilled and countersunk the mounting screws in the table. Worked great. Fence is smooth and easy to operate. Blade height and angle adjustment is smooth.
I placed my order for the 5HP 1023RLWX on Sunday, 10-09. In between that date, and before they shipped it, I realized my garage wasn't equipped to run a 240V 5 HP motor. You need a 30A circuit to run 5HP. I called Grizzly and asked them to change the order down to the 240V, 3 HP, which only needed a 15A circuit. My garage had a 20A, so I was good to go. The 3HP saw was shipped, and it arrived on Thursday, 10-20. The saw arrived with boxes trashed. Thank you delivery service, for nothing! I was recovering from a serious motorcycle accident at the time, and using a walker with a bunch of broken bones, so the delivery driver moved it into my garage for me, and I tipped him $20 for the effort, as I have a long and sloped driveway. Because of my injuries, it took me a while to get everything set up and running, several months, in fact. I photographed everything with the driver right there, but forgot to note this on the delivery receipt. My bad - I was so pleased to finally get my new saw, I just wigged out. I ordered the 1023RLW with the router table attachment, thinking I would use this router table instead of a "stand-alone" version. I am very pleased to tell you that even though the boxes were absolutely trashed, there was not a mark, scratch, or dent on anything! Tip of the hat to the people putting this in the boxes overseas!
As I got it up and running, I purchased some equipment to help set up and calibrate the saw top and fence to the blade and miter slots. I did the testing on the blade to the miter slot first, to verify that the slots ran perfectly parallel to the blade, and to check run-out on the blade itself. I used the Woodpeckers Saw Gauge on a new Freud blade. NO run-out at all. I checked it several times, .001" or less on the blade to the miter slot. Can it get any better than that?
I installed the fence, and then thought better of it. I removed it and have never used the factory fence; it sits today in my garage, brand spanking new. I ordered a new Incra TS-LS combo with a 28"x32" table saw router table attachment, a router lift, and, of course, the Incra TS-LS fence. Nothing wrong, I'm sure with the Shop Fox fence, but I wanted the Incra for it's dead-on and instant measurement repeatability. After installing the Incra fence and router table on the right side of the blade, I thought I would replace the smaller cast iron table saw top plate on the left side of the blade with the (now unused) Grizzly router table. Although it would have worked just fine, (with homemade support legs, that is) I elected to keep the small table saw top plate on the left, and the Incra 28"x32" router table on the right. I'll offer the cast iron router table, legs, and fence with brackets for sale eventually.
I have now had a chance to use the saw, including both with a regular blade, a thin kerf blade, and a dado set. Every single cut has been perfectly straight, regardless of using the fence, or a miter gauge.
The wheels to raise/lower the blade seem to be on ball bearings; they are incredibly smooth in operation, with almost no resistance. The saw is quiet, compared to my old contractors saw, incredibly smooth, and ramps up to speed almost instantly. I hooked up a shop vac, with an adaptor, to the dust port; this doesn't really work that well; you really need some form of dust removal with much more suction and air movement than a shop vac. If you are considering purchasing a Cabinet saw such as this, you will need to spend the money for a real dust extraction unit, if you want to keep it clean. That's next on my list.
The electrical cord that comes with the saw is pretty short, maybe 5 or 6''. Take a photo of the male plug on the end of the saw cord with you to Lowe's or Home Depot, and buy the parts to make your own 220V extension cord. The plugs you will need are industry standard 6-15, and you will need both a plug and a receptacle. Although the owner's manual does not recommend an extension cord, they apparently get it that the factory cord is too short, and advise you to use an extension cord only if absolutely necessary, and only on a temporary basis. Mine is 18', and cost me about $30 in parts and wiring. It has worked extremely well, probably because I made it with 8GA. wire. The manual gives you a hint on this, on page 11; use minimum 14ga wire, and keep it under 50' for the 3HP 1023RLW models.
I cannot comment on the quality of the factory blade; I replaced it immediately with a Freud, with which I am very familiar, and use exclusively on my saws.
Overall, I am very, very, pleased with my purchase. The difference in cost between the router table version, 1023RLW, and the regular version, 1023RL, is just over $100 at this writing. Given that it will sell for at least that, I haven't lost any money. I would caution you to think twice about whether or not you are going to use this as a router, as I do, or not, and when you see and investigate an aftermarket router table option, you may think twice about ordering the 1023RLW.
If I had to do it over again, I would order the 1023RL, and add on the router accessories later. But I would order a Grizzly! I reviewed other saws on the market while bed-ridden and recovering from multiple surgeries - I had nothing else to do except lie there and hurt. All of the reviews and research I read and reviewed said the Grizzly was top notch, and by far and away the best bang for the buck. I agree. I compared it to both the Powermatic, and the SawStop cabinet saw versions; both were double the price, without offering, at that time, a router option. Double the price should get you twice the saw; in MY opinion, it does not.
I would strongly recommend that you consider this when you buy your next cabinet saw; this is the best value out there, in my opinion; I have been using table saws as a serious hobby for 19 years; this is the real deal.
I ordered this saw on a Monday, and it was delivered on the following Tuesday by UPS. The driver packed his truck into the back yard, and unloaded the saw onto the driveway of the shop, and then pushed it up and into the shop. It arrived without a scratch. I had a Shop Fox base from my old contractors saw, and resized it for the Grizzly. Then it was a simple matter of lifting the saw with the bucket on my tractor, and lowering it onto the base. I spent the next couple of evenings cleaning, assembling, and adjusting the saw. Everything lined up correctly, with only 1 masking tape shim required. I installed the Grizzly blade that came with the saw, and did several test cuts. Everything works as advertised, and the saw not only passed the nickel test, but a penny test too! In the past two months Iâ€™ve built a large out-feed table, several jigs, and have started on a cabinet project for the new shop. I could not be happier with the Grizzly saw, and hope to soon acquire a 17â€ band saw.
I was looking at both Grizzly & Powermatic 3 hp tablesaws. I previously owned a 1 1/2 hp Grizzly saw & it was 35 years old. I needed an upgrade. I just couldn't justify paying twice the price for the Powermatic & ordered the Grizzly G1023RLW. Everything from the the truck driver to set up was just great & I have no issues. I can't imagine needing anything more than this Grizzly. Thanks for your great service.
Great table saw, cuts well, ease of raise and lowering and angle of blade.
Ordered this saw on line. When it arrived, the packaging was destroyed. The only damage was the tilt indicator was broken, not sure how it got broken, it's 'kinda tucked away, but it was. Called Grizzly, talked to a very nice person. They shipped out every part associated with the indicator. I replaced the broken parts and couldn't be happier with the saw. - Steve
Bought this saw about 3 weeks ago to replace an upper end Jet contractor saw we'd been using for the last few years to build heirloom quality cabinetry. It arrived 4 days after I placed the order and took approximately 4 hours to set up. Everything was included and instruction/assembly instructions were complete in every detail. We were amazed at how close everything, as received, was to spec. Powering up, we were surprised at how quiet, from a vibration standpoint, the saw was - needless to say we weren't the least disappointed when we actually began work with it. And, due to several complex cuts we make on one of our pieces, the router extension proved very useful in eliminating the necessity to reset the saw for one of the cuts. This is one exceptional value - we had looked at a number of other saws and decided on this one, based on reviews and what others had to say about it - again we were pleasantly surprised. The Jet was a wonderfully stable saw but we've already seen the difference in our joinery since the Grizzly was placed in service. When combined with Grizzly's fine track record of service and support, I doubt you can find a better saw for the money.
I wanted to send a review regarding my new Grizzly table saw and I hope you will post this on your website for future shoppers.
I am not going to ramble on about every detail of the G1023RLW, but rather give a quick synopsis for those contemplating the purchase of a new saw. If you are serious about precision woodworking projects, a cabinet saw is your best investment, and I would highly recommend Grizzly. Every review I have read on the machines Grizzly puts out was confirmed when I received my saw and used it for the first time. I can't begin to express how confident I feel about my purchase, and Grizzly made it extremely easy and comfortable.
I am fairly new to woodworking and this is my first real investment. I can't tell you how impressed I am that the machine was in such close tolerance. Perhaps this is throughout the industry, but that doesn't matter, because you make high quality machines that we don't have to take out a second mortgage to purchase.
The only suggestion I would give is that future buyers purchase the cleaner for the cast iron top. I had no problem removing it with Mineral Spirits and it did not affect the painted surface, but the spray I saw on your website after the fact would have probably worked better.
The router table extension is another great add to this saw and the motor on the saw is so smooth that it passed the nickel test even though I haven't leveled the saw yet. The quality of the fence is extremely good and was very easy to set up and would caution anyone about buying an aftermarket brand that is sometimes suggested in woodworking articles. I ran test cuts and the precision was perfect.
Thank you so much for producing such a quality product that shipped in under three days. If it weren't for the snow in New England, I would have had it sooner.
I want to thank you for everything you have done for me and future buyers.
Common Questions and Answers about the G1023RLW:
What are the main differences between the G1023RL-Series and the G0690-Series table saws?
Aside from color and outward appearances, there are 6 primary differences between these series of machines: the drive system, dust extraction components, switch lock-ability, blade guard spreader/riving knife release mechanism, the fence, and the country of origin.
What is the difference between the G1023RL-Series and G0690-Series belt-drive systems?
The G1023RL-series features a poly-V "Serpentine" belt-drive system, which is quieter and transfers power more efficiently than a standard single V-belt drive system. The G0690-series features a triple V-belt drive system, which does a better job of maintaining a consistent transfer of power when under load than a standard single V-belt drive system.
What is the difference between the G1023RL-Series and G0690-Series dust extraction systems?
The G1023RL-series encapsulates the underside of the blade with a dust hood that is connected directly to the dust port via an internal dust hose. This allows a dust collector to remove the majority of dust that falls through the table, and it helps keep the other components inside the cabinet clean. This system requires less cleaning and maintenance than that of saws where the dust falls straight through to the bottom of the cabinet. The G0690-series has a fully-enclosed cabinet with a sloped bottom that allows gravity to direct incoming dust toward the dust port.
What is the difference between the G1023RL-Series and G0690-Series mag switches?
The G1023RL-series features a lockable mag switch with an included key-lock padlock. The G0690-series features a mag switch that can also be disabled from accidental use with a special pin, but it does not accommodate a padlock, so it can't be completely locked.
What is the difference between the G1023RL-Series and G0690-Series blade guard spreader/riving knife release mechanism?
The G1023RL-series is equipped with a quick-release lever to unlock/lock the spreader/riving knife when changing between blade guards. The G0690-series is equipped with an easily-accessible knurled knob that unlocks/locks the spreader/riving knife with a quick rotation.
What is the difference between the G1023RL-Series and G0690-Series fence?
The G1023RL-series features the hugely popular Shop Fox Classic Fence, which has been a customer favorite for nearly two decades due to its adjustment simplicity and performance reliability. The G0690-series fence is very similar to the Shop Fox Classic Fence in all ways, except that it locks against the front rail on three sides instead of two. Aside from allowing it to lock more firmly in place, the added side of rail contact also provides an additional axis of adjustability when calibrating fence accuracy.
General Questions and Answers:
How do I know which size of motor I'll need for my table saw?
Assuming the correct blade is installed for any specific type of cut, the answer primarily depends on these three factors: (1) your average stock thickness, (2) your typical wood type or variety, and (3) your anticipated cutting frequency or overall demands placed on the saw. First, it is important to note that with a slow enough feed rate, any of our table saws can cut through a piece of hardwood up to that saw's maximum cutting height. Unfortunately, using too slow of a feed rate can result in burn marks in your workpiece, and using a feed rate that is so aggressive that it causes a motor to bog down will quickly increase the motor's internal temperature to a state of thermal breakdown. Once a motor reaches this state, continued operation (without allowing sufficient cool-down time between cuts) will result in the motor becoming so hot that its winding insulation will completely fail and the motor will die. A larger motor, however, could easily perform the exact same type of work without ever reaching a state of thermal breakdown. With that in mind, your goal should be to select a motor size that will handle the majority of what you'll be cutting on a regular basis, without bogging the motor down. To translate this into a more practical perspective, generally speaking, a 1.5 HP motor used with an aggressive feed rate can repeatedly cut 6/4 (1.5") soft woods and 4/4 (1") hardwoods without bogging down. A 3 HP motor, on the other hand, can repeatedly cut the same type of stock with the same type of feed rate at approximately twice that size without bogging down.
What are the differences between contractor, hybrid, and cabinet saws?
A "Contractor" table saw is generally a light-duty saw with an open-stand and is usually equipped with a 1.5 HP to 2 HP motor that can be operated on a common 120V power supply, making it portable and convenient enough to take from jobsite to jobsite for carpentry work, trim work, and small cabinetry or furniture work. To keep the weight down, contractor saws often use sheet-metal wings instead of cast-iron wings, and their trunnions and other internal components use less cast iron or steel, making them much less beefy than those same components used in cabinet saws. A few other typical hallmarks of contractor saws are non-enclosed motors (making them slightly louder and sometimes resulting in a lack of dust collection) and trunnions mounted to the bottom of the table instead of the cabinet (making them slightly more difficult to align the blade to the miter slot or fence). The lighter-duty components used in their construction typically means that contractor saws also cost less than other saw types. The low cost, high portability, and convenience of operating on a 120V power supply, combined with included fence systems that often rival those used on cabinet saws, has historically made the contractor saw a favorite option for the hobbyist or beginning woodworker. A "Cabinet" table saw is a heavy-duty saw with an enclosed cabinet-style stand and usually a 3 HP or larger motor that operates on a 240V power supply, making it the top choice for professional woodworkers, serious amateurs, or production shops that require day-in and day-out reliability and the ability to regularly cut thick hardwoods. Unlike contractor saws, cabinet saws have much thicker castings for the trunnions and arbor assembly, which attach to the cabinet instead of the table (making blade alignment adjustments easier), and they usually have full cast-iron wings, which combined with the beefier trunnions and heavy cabinet stand, give them a lot more vibration-dampening weight. Additionally, the enclosed cabinet stands result in quieter operation and usually have much better dust collection. A "Hybrid" table saw is a newer category of saw that is considered to be a cross between a contractor saw and a cabinet saw. Like cabinet saws, hybrid saws typically have cabinets or stands with enclosed motors (providing quieter operation and easier dust collection) and trunnions that mount to the stand (making blade alignment adjustments easier). Like contractor saws, hybrids are generally constructed with lighter-duty components and materials (keeping costs and overall weight down), and they are usually equipped with 1.5 HP to 2 HP motors (allowing them to operate on a common 120V power supply). Because hybrid saws are often priced near contractor saws and they offer many of the additional benefits that cabinet saws provide over contractor saws, they are quickly becoming the saw of choice for the serious hobbyist or the professional woodworker on a budget.
How do I know what type of blade I should buy?
Blade choice is determined by the type and purpose of cut, hardness and thickness of stock, and desired trade-offs between cutting speed versus cut quality. Generally speaking, a blade with fewer teeth cuts faster but makes a lower quality cut, and a blade with more teeth cuts slower but makes a higher quality cut. We offer a wide variety of blades from a handful of different manufacturers. All of our blades are clearly designated by either blade function, cut type, or material type.
What is the purpose of the riving knife?
The riving knife is used for non-through cuts. It is a metal plate positioned in alignment behind the blade to prevent the newly-cut workpiece sides from pinching on or pushing against the backside of the blade and causing kickback. The riving knife also acts as a barrier behind the blade to reduce the risk of hands being pulled into the blade if they are positioned incorrectly when kickback occurs.
Can I still use my table saw without connecting it to a dust collector?
Yes, but we don't recommend it. Without using a dust collector, the dust will quickly pile up inside and around your machine, resulting in additional cleaning time later. Besides making a mess, fine dust can be harmful to your respiratory system. A better choice is to connect your table saw to a properly-designed dust collection system that at least pulls the recommended minimum CFM for your saw's dust port.
Can I cut metal or other non-wood materials with your table saws?
Although our table saws will physically cut many different types of materials, they are only designed to cut natural wood or wood-based materials (plywood, MDF, OSB, etc.). Cutting materials not intended to be cut on a woodworking table saw can result in serious injury to the operator or bystanders, and it could decrease the life of the saw and void the warranty.