Grizzly G0652 - 10" 5 HP 3-Phase Heavy-Duty Cabinet Table Saw with riving knife
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Free shipping within the Contiguous United States.
Sales of this outlet item are limited to quantity on hand.
Free shipping within the Contiguous United States.
Sales of this outlet item are limited to quantity on hand.
Cut panels & wide stock all day long with this 10" Heavy-duty Cabinet Table Saw. A 52" rip capacity & extended side & rear tables will support a full sheet of plywood, making ripping & cross cutting operations safe & simple. A guard with splitter or interchangeable riving knife helps prevent binding and kickback, and a rail mounted magnetic switch with thermal overload protection provides additional safety features. Bevel cutting is also safe & precise with the left tilting blade & digital angle display. Includes a miter gauge & 10" blade. CSA certified meeting CSA C22.2 #71.2-08; CSA C22.2 #105-1953 and UL 987 standards!
440V operation requires purchasing additional components and installation by our technicians. Please call customer service at (570) 546-9663 for more information
D3122 PUSH STICK INCLUDED
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2 Customer Reviews (4.5 out of 5 stars): Sign in to write a review
Assembled easily, no cheap components, and is cutting composite materials like butter. Very satisfied!
This is one great saw one we converted it to residential use. Grizzly worked with us as this was our error, not being "electrical" we didn't understand the term 3-Phase. 3-Phase will not work in a residential shop unless you purchased a phase converter and that can be pretty spendy. We opted to switch the motor out and made this saw a 3 HP, for home use the 3 HP works perfect. You really can place a nickle upright and make a cut without it falling...it's that smooth. If we didn't have to go through the conversion hassle we would rate this as Excellent! Again, we caution you to look into your personal electrical situation before buying the 3-Phase and we thank Grizzly for helping us through our mistake.
Common Questions and Answers about the G0652:
How do the G0651 and G0652 saws compare to the other Grizzly 10" cabinet saws, such as the G1023RL series or the G0690-91?
The G0651/G0652 are our top-of-the-line "Extreme Series" 10" cabinet saws. They are made in Taiwan under strict quality-control standards to ensure premium fit-and-finish, smooth functionality of all moving parts, and an industrial-grade level of durability and accuracy. Other, more obvious features that make these saws unique are the included rear extension table, extension-table storage shelves, and a digital readout for the angle of blade tilt. Like the G1023RL series saws, the G0651-52 table saws are equipped with the same type of padlock compatible "lock out" mag switch, a poly-V belt drive system for smoother, quieter power transfer, and the underside of the blade is encapsulated with a dust hood for improved dust collection and reduced maintenance/cleaning inside the cabinet. Additionally, the fence system included with the G0651-52 saws is similar in function and design to the Shop Fox Classic Fence included with the G1023RL-series models, except it has aluminum fence faces and scale indicators that read on both sides of the fence, allowing easy fence use on either side of the blade.
If this machine is converted to 440V, will it be able to operate on 480V?
Yes, this machine should have no problem running at plus or minus 10% of its voltage rating. In other words, from as little as 396V to as high as 484V. Keep in mind, however, that running the machine at the low-end of this voltage range will increase the overall operating temperature of the motor and all its components.
What is the difference between G0651 and G0652?
The G0651 has a 3 HP motor and is wired for a single-phase, 220V, 15A power supply circuit. The G0652 has a 5 HP motor and is wired for a 3-phase, 220V, 15A power supply circuit. Aside from these differences, the two models are identical.
What is the difference between G0651-52 and G0605X1-06X1?
These four machines have the same overall design, but the G0651 and G0652 are designed for a 10" blade and the G0605X1 and G0606X are designed for a 12" blade. The 12" models have a bigger cabinet, cast-iron table, arbors, trunnions, and other internal components, giving them a slightly larger overall size. With the addition of the larger blade, the 12" saws have the ability to cut workpieces up to 4" thick--whereas the 10" models have a maximum cutting depth of 3-3/16". The fence rails, fence, and extension tables are the same size on all four models, giving the 10" saws the same maximum rip capacity (to the right of the blade) as the 12" saws. That said, the larger castings, arbor spindle, motor size, and cutting depth of the 12" saws make them a better choice in an industrial setting, because the added heft and power allow them to better withstand the rigors that a busy production shop can demand day-in and day-out.
Can I install an H7507 extension wing router table on this saw?
Yes, however, the mounting holes on the H7507 don't line up to those on the saw, thus, requiring you to drill your own set of mounting holes in order to make it fit properly. If you're okay with doing this type of work to make it fit, we recommend getting the T10222 Router Table Extension, instead. Although it costs a little bit more money, the T10222 includes its own independent fence system, a starting pin, four miter slots, and an auxiliary support leg for increased stability.
General Questions and Answers:
How do I know which size of motor I'll need for my table saw?
Assuming the correct blade is installed for any specific type of cut, the answer primarily depends on these three factors: (1) your average stock thickness, (2) your typical wood type or variety, and (3) your anticipated cutting frequency or overall demands placed on the saw. First, it is important to note that with a slow enough feed rate, any of our table saws can cut through a piece of hardwood up to that saw's maximum cutting height. Unfortunately, using too slow of a feed rate can result in burn marks in your workpiece, and using a feed rate that is so aggressive that it causes a motor to bog down will quickly increase the motor's internal temperature to a state of thermal breakdown. Once a motor reaches this state, continued operation (without allowing sufficient cool-down time between cuts) will result in the motor becoming so hot that its winding insulation will completely fail and the motor will die. A larger motor, however, could easily perform the exact same type of work without ever reaching a state of thermal breakdown. With that in mind, your goal should be to select a motor size that will handle the majority of what you'll be cutting on a regular basis, without bogging the motor down. To translate this into a more practical perspective, generally speaking, a 1.5 HP motor used with an aggressive feed rate can repeatedly cut 6/4 (1.5") soft woods and 4/4 (1") hardwoods without bogging down. A 3 HP motor, on the other hand, can repeatedly cut the same type of stock with the same type of feed rate at approximately twice that size without bogging down.
What are the differences between contractor, hybrid, and cabinet saws?
A "Contractor" table saw is generally a light-duty saw with an open-stand and is usually equipped with a 1.5 HP to 2 HP motor that can be operated on a common 120V power supply, making it portable and convenient enough to take from jobsite to jobsite for carpentry work, trim work, and small cabinetry or furniture work. To keep the weight down, contractor saws often use sheet-metal wings instead of cast-iron wings, and their trunnions and other internal components use less cast iron or steel, making them much less beefy than those same components used in cabinet saws. A few other typical hallmarks of contractor saws are non-enclosed motors (making them slightly louder and sometimes resulting in a lack of dust collection) and trunnions mounted to the bottom of the table instead of the cabinet (making them slightly more difficult to align the blade to the miter slot or fence). The lighter-duty components used in their construction typically means that contractor saws also cost less than other saw types. The low cost, high portability, and convenience of operating on a 120V power supply, combined with included fence systems that often rival those used on cabinet saws, has historically made the contractor saw a favorite option for the hobbyist or beginning woodworker. A "Cabinet" table saw is a heavy-duty saw with an enclosed cabinet-style stand and usually a 3 HP or larger motor that operates on a 240V power supply, making it the top choice for professional woodworkers, serious amateurs, or production shops that require day-in and day-out reliability and the ability to regularly cut thick hardwoods. Unlike contractor saws, cabinet saws have much thicker castings for the trunnions and arbor assembly, which attach to the cabinet instead of the table (making blade alignment adjustments easier), and they usually have full cast-iron wings, which combined with the beefier trunnions and heavy cabinet stand, give them a lot more vibration-dampening weight. Additionally, the enclosed cabinet stands result in quieter operation and usually have much better dust collection. A "Hybrid" table saw is a newer category of saw that is considered to be a cross between a contractor saw and a cabinet saw. Like cabinet saws, hybrid saws typically have cabinets or stands with enclosed motors (providing quieter operation and easier dust collection) and trunnions that mount to the stand (making blade alignment adjustments easier). Like contractor saws, hybrids are generally constructed with lighter-duty components and materials (keeping costs and overall weight down), and they are usually equipped with 1.5 HP to 2 HP motors (allowing them to operate on a common 120V power supply). Because hybrid saws are often priced near contractor saws and they offer many of the additional benefits that cabinet saws provide over contractor saws, they are quickly becoming the saw of choice for the serious hobbyist or the professional woodworker on a budget.
How do I know what type of blade I should buy?
Blade choice is determined by the type and purpose of cut, hardness and thickness of stock, and desired trade-offs between cutting speed versus cut quality. Generally speaking, a blade with fewer teeth cuts faster but makes a lower quality cut, and a blade with more teeth cuts slower but makes a higher quality cut. We offer a wide variety of blades from a handful of different manufacturers. All of our blades are clearly designated by either blade function, cut type, or material type.
What is the purpose of the riving knife?
The riving knife is used for non-through cuts. It is a metal plate positioned in alignment behind the blade to prevent the newly-cut workpiece sides from pinching on or pushing against the backside of the blade and causing kickback. The riving knife also acts as a barrier behind the blade to reduce the risk of hands being pulled into the blade if they are positioned incorrectly when kickback occurs.
Can I still use my table saw without connecting it to a dust collector?
Yes, but we don't recommend it. Without using a dust collector, the dust will quickly pile up inside and around your machine, resulting in additional cleaning time later. Besides making a mess, fine dust can be harmful to your respiratory system. A better choice is to connect your table saw to a properly-designed dust collection system that at least pulls the recommended minimum CFM for your saw's dust port.
Can I cut metal or other non-wood materials with your table saws?
Although our table saws will physically cut many different types of materials, they are only designed to cut natural wood or wood-based materials (plywood, MDF, OSB, etc.). Cutting materials not intended to be cut on a woodworking table saw can result in serious injury to the operator or bystanders, and it could decrease the life of the saw and void the warranty.