Grizzly G0715P - 10" Hybrid Table Saw with Riving Knife, Polar Bear Series
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- Motor: 2 HP, 110V/220V*, single-phase, prewired to 220V
- Amps: 16A at 110V, 8A at 220V
- Precision-ground cast-iron table w/wings
- Measures: 27"D x 40"W
- Table height: 34"
- Footprint: 20"L x 21-1/2"W
- Arbor: 5/8"
- Arbor speed: 3850 RPM
- Capacity @ 90°: 3-1/8"
- Capacity @ 45°: 2-3/16"
- Rip capacity: 30" right, 12" left
- Overall size: 60"L x 36"W x 40"H
- Approximate shipping weight: 416 lbs.
- White powder-coated paint on cabinet
- Precision-ground cast-iron table
- Cast-iron trunnions
- 4" dust port
- T-slot miter gauge
- Camlock T-shaped fence with HDPE face
- Easy-glide fence system
- Quick-release riving knife and blade guard assembly
- Knurled knobs for adjusting fence
- Includes regular, as well as dado blade table inserts
- Device on blade guard allows enabling or disabling of anti-kickback pawls
- Poly-V serpentine belt drive
- Includes 10" x 40T carbide-tipped saw blade
NOTICE: *110V operation requires part #T23999 circuit breaker and wiring procedures that must be completed by an electrician or other qualified service personnel. See Owner’s Manual for details.
12 Customer Reviews (4.9 out of 5 stars): Sign in to write a review
Seven months ago I built a dedicated home wood working shop; small but efficiently laid out. First on the list was an upgrade from a contractor saw. Like a lot of folks, I agonized over my decision, price, capabilities, image, and in my case, a need to have at least some mobility to accommodate different size projects in my shop -a true cabinet saw just would have fit. I looked at lots of used saws, but decided I would "take a chance" on a new Grizzly. I bought precision set-up tools, a dial indicator, etc. The saw went together per included instructions. I mounted a new WW II blade and powered it on....what a beautiful sound! I still enjoy working with this equipment and check my alignment regularly, but it's always right on and my projects have been going together about as perfectly as one could wish for. I have since bought a G0490 jointer. From the start I was glad I went for the 8", 6" just isn't enough. Again I bought set-up tools, a 50" REAL straight edge which is absolutely essential, and it's been a real lesson in humility setting up a jointer even with a parallelogram. BUT, it"s right-on now and making raised panel doors that even amaze me, as well as other projects that friends and neighbors are equally amazed at. All I can say is that everyone from the order folks, customer service, technical folks who took as much time as needed to answer questions, etc. to delivery has been a very good experience. Thank You!
And for all of you that are agonizing over your decision like I did for a PM, D, or SS, you will be pleased with Grizzly and you will save enough money to buy something else!
I bought this saw a year and 2 mos. ago. Very easy to assemble and its cuts are accurate. I added a digital readout on the fence and discovered a whole new world of repeatability.
This review is totally positive but full disclosure. After the saw was out of warranty just by 2 months the ON/OFF switch failed. Not wanting to be without a saw for long I ordered a new switch right away. I opened the old switch thinking I could clean a dirty contact. To my surprise there was not a speck of dust inside. The problem was the contact was completely burned away. It is a 2 pole switch with poor contacts. A bad contact will work but it will heat up and quickly fail as it did. No real remedy. Just a heads up.
Bad luck on my part. I have several woodworking friends with the same model of saw for over 5 years without problems.
This saw is awesome! It just came today and went together easy as can be expected. All of the alignments were great right out of the box and everything works like butter! The saw is very quiet and smooth running. I work full time for a high end custom cabinet shop and this saw feels like it would be right at home there, but this one stays with me. Everyone at grizzly was fantastic! Thanks for a great product at a great price!
i started out in my wood working with a little contractors job site saw, smaller than this one and much less powerful. march of this year i bought this saw as an upgrade. realizing that my new saw was going to be more powerful and bigger than my old one i fully expected it to be much louder as well but i was very pleasantly surprised at just how quiet this beast is. i have thrown a lot at this saw so far and it has taken all of it without hesitation. to say i am happy or satisfied with my purchase is an understatement. my only regret is not upgrading to this saw a few years ago.
I purchased this saw about 2 months ago, picked it up from the springfield location, its about a 3 hr round trip from my location.
my reason for the purchase was I wanted a more accurate saw, allowing better cuts, once unloaded and in my shop I began set up, using a dial indicator I soon discovered the blade and mitre slot were quite a bit out so as per the manual I removed the rear access panel and loosened the rear trunnion bolts, adjusted them but was still out of parallel more than I could live with, so as I was at the limit of travel with the rear trunnion I moved to the front bolts, but soon discovered there was no adjustment possible as the front trunnion had holes verses slots, so no movement possible, let me say the help desk were pretty good, they suggested taking a file to the trunnion holes and filing them out.
so I cradled the whole assembly with my engine hoist and removed the front trunnion filed both holes into slots and put everything back together, that did the trick now the saw is spot on!
My next issue was the cast mounting plate for the riving knife and saw guard had not been ground at a 90 degree angle so if I aligned the bottom of the blade with the knife the top of the blade would be out and vice versa, tried shimming it but with no luck, I ended up taking the piece off and ground it on my disc sander and that fixed that problem.
So my conclusion is a lot seem to have been lucky with there purchase but be prepared to do some headscratching and be ready to dive Iinto some machining with this one, A word of warning! As I figured removing one trunnion would cause the whole casting to slip out of the other remaining trunnion I slung the whole thing in straps to my engine hoist, just in case it did, and yes it did! So without my precaution the whole thing would have crashed down into the cabinet, so with hindsight it might be better to flip the whole saw onto its lid and then work from below.
So its been a few months now and I love the saw despite the teething troubles at the beginning
I have had this saw in my shop for 2 years now and it is a excellent machine. No problems, runs perfect. I only thing I would like to see come standard with the saw is the mitre clamp even if the saw cost a few dollars more.
My dust system wasn't strong enough to pull the dust from the saw so I modified a dust system with thin sheet metal and works perfect.
Great saw as my other Grizzly product are.
I had some doubt about the saw reading reports of the blade misalignment. However after watching numerous videos about it I failed to find a single one where a user error was not the reason of the problem. People either raised the blade beyond what is specified and then tried to force some more in which case the blade would naturally deflect. Or expect the blade to be perfectly aligned while being raised/lowered. The fact that the blade immediately returns to the zero position after the tension is released did not prevent them from crying foul.
So the saw arrived today and I rushed to test the blade alignment before doing anything else. I must say I was pleasantly surprised with what I discovered. The front of the blade stays put on without the dial indicator even budging, when I lower or raise the blade. The back of the blade does deviate to the left or right depending on whether I raise of lower the blade but not more than about 0.007â€ or so. When I turn the raise handle back a quarter of one rotation to relieve the tension it goes back close to the initial point. I my books it is perfect.
Operating elevation and tilt handles is an immense pleasure. The cast iron handles are heavy and the motion is very smooth. It is incomparable to the saws with aluminum handles.
The VERY oversized power switch with a dedicated ON button, seems to be much safer and convenient to use than regular switches that you have to pull to turn on.
The table finish on G0715P is very good and the table is very flat. I did not measure specifically but I could not see light between the table top and a straight edge, with exception of the right near corner where it still was very negligeable. I did not shim the extension wings. This saw has a table mounted trunnios, which many do not like "because it is more difficult to tune them". However you do not adjust the trunnions every day (if ever) and the table mounted construction is far more ridig than the cabinet mounted because there are more parts in between in the latter case.
The fence on this saw is very impressive. It is a large step up from contractor saws you see in the similar priced contractor saws in big box stores. It slides very well and stays square.
My recommendation buy it ! Woodworking is not my day job, just a hobby so this saw is far more than I need. I guess even for a low volume shop it still would be adequated.
For the last several months, I have been agonizing over which saw to purchase. I wanted a powerful saw, but also one that would cut accurately, and safely. To be honest, I did look at many other brands.SS was one such saw, I did like the feature that it was nearly impossible to cut off a finger while using it, however, it does come with many hidden catches that if you do not do your research on, you will end up spending a lot of money just operating the silly thing. I read reviews here, about this saw, and was a bit nervous about the set-up, it appears a lot of men had a hard time setting up their saw, and I really did not want to go through nightmares setting up a saw. I purchased a rotocator to be certain that I was setting this up to exact tolerances. I have to say that setting this saw up was hassle free, other than I was the only one on location putting the saw together. Honestly, an extra set of hands would have came in handy while putting on the table extensions! But, I managed and was able to get everything level. Now the hard part was coming..so I thought. Making certain that the miters were going to be perfect with the blade alignment. I dreaded having to loosen bolts, tap the trunion to get things lined up. I set up my gauge and like something out of a miracle, this was set from factory to exact, and I do mean exact tolerances. I seriously doubt this happens every time, but it did for me. The saw is relatively quiet. The only drawback I found was the power cord is really not that long. I made my own extension cord out of 10 gauge wire and kept it at only 15 feet. I did take the motor cover off, and in the bottom of the saw where the saw dust would fall before going out through the vac chute, I took duct tape and went all around the bottom of the saw to prevent fine saw dust from filtering through the bottom of the saw. Other than that, I am extremely pleased with this saw, and the money I saved by buying this saw as opposed to the SS saw, I was able to put towards the purchase of other machinery, Grizzly of course..for my small garage work shop! I recommend, that if you too are struggling with a decision, stop struggling, get on line, and order this saw today. You will not be disappointed in any way at all!
Been using this saw for about two years and am as happy as a clam at high tide. I customized mine with a Freud LU83 10" 50T blade, a right wing replacement router table and an Incra LS-III rip fence with an Incra Miter1000 miter gauge.
This combination can both rip and crosscut to any 1/32" +-.002" with no fiddling or 'ginching'.
Great tool. Was perfect out of the box. The 90.0° and 45.0° stops were dead on according to my Wixey angle gauge.
Ill keep it simple. Bought a few months ago. Have built cabinets, doors, trim work and so on with this saw. Purchase the dust collector as well. The combo is amazing. Still not dure why anyone would pay more for another saw. Very happy and will continue to buy grizzly products. Their customer service and support are amazing too.
Very happy so far, had a small problem with a glide pad on the fence & Grizzlys great customer service has one on the way. Everything was lined up out of the crate. First cut was some 3/4 birch plywood scraps I had handy, not a single splinter on an 8` cut with the factory blade. A lot of the accessories for Grizzlys top line saws with the "shop fox" fence will not work with this hybrid but in my case this is not a big problem. The spacer at the end of the miter bar will need to be filed before you scratch up your back rail.
This review is more about Grizzly than the actual saw.
I ordered a G0715P a few weeks ago. The shipment was tracked, shipped, and delivered ahead of schedule.
Regrettably, there were some parts that were defective requiring the machine to be returned.
I am in the service industry, and the mark of a true quality company is how they react to a customer's problem. And I will always feel truly comfortable doing business with this company based on how they handled this glitch.
They responded very quickly. There was a bit of confusion early on, but I want to commend all of the Grizzly staff for always being polite, and genuinely concerned for my satisfaction. I especially want to call out Justin, one of the managers.
Honestly, I just today received my replacement saw in perfect condition. I will comment on how the saw works soon, but, and I'm not a shill for the company, the company itself is a stand-up operation in today's world of so many, less-customer oriented companies. If you like these products, the company backs them!
Common Questions and Answers about the G0715P:
What do I need to convert this machine to 110V?
First, review the circuit requirements in the Owner's Manual to make sure you have the appropriate 30A, 110V power supply circuit and wall receptacle installed in your shop. Converting the machine to 110V requires: (1) disconnecting saw from power supply, (2) removing existing power cord with 220V plug, (3) reconfiguring wire connections inside the motor junction box, and (4) replacing power cord with one that has the appropriate 110V plug and meets the required specifications detailed in the owner's manual. CAUTION: To reduce the risk of electrocution or fire, only an electrician or qualified service personnel should perform this procedure.
Can I install an H8875 or G1317 Roller Extension Table on this table saw?
Although it is possible, installation is made much more difficult by the box protruding from the rear of the cabinet, near the top, where the roller-table top mounting bracket plate must attach. Some determined customers have worked around this by making an adapter/spacers out of wood, attaching those to the back of the cabinet, and then attaching the roller-table mounting bracket plates to the wood adapter/spacers.
What are the main differences between the G0771 and G0715P hybrid table saws?
The main differences between these two models are: the fence system, the blade guard/riving knife design, the miter gauge, overall heft or weight, and pre-wired voltage. Otherwise, both machines offer 2 HP motors and have similar features, table sizes, cutting capacities, and standard equipment. The G0715P is pre-wired for a 240V power supply but can easily be rewired for 120V. The G0771 is pre-wired for 120V but can easily be rewired for 240V.
What is the difference between the G0715P and G0771 fences?
The G0715P uses a classic T-shape fence system that is equipped with HDPE fence faces on both sides and locks against the front rail on three sides, using a camlock lever handle (the same fence system used on our G0690/G0691 cabinet saws). This fence system lifts off easily and features multi-axis adjustment screws for high-precision calibration to the blade, which is what controls the cutting accuracy of the saw. The G0771 uses a front/rear locking fence system that is equipped with T-slots on both sides and the top for easy attachment of aftermarket or shop-made accessories, such as anti-kickback board buddies, featherboards, special-purpose fence jigs, etc. Unlike some front/rear locking fence designs, the G0771 fence can be lifted directly off the rails when in the unlocked position--just as easily (if not more, due to its light weight) as the G0715P fence. The G0715P fence will also hold aftermarket or shop-made accessories, but attaching them usually requires clamping or removing the HDPE fence faces and using the mounting holes for securing.
What is the difference between the G0715P and G0771 blade guard/riving knife designs?
The blade guards and riving knives on both of these machines perform the same function. The difference between the two mainly has to do with the appearance of the blade guard and the mechanisms used when swapping the riving knife with the blade guard spreader. Both setups allow the riving knife and spreader to be quickly swapped without requiring any additional tools. Additionally, both setups allow the anti-kickback pawls to be locked in a retracted position and allow the riving knife to be adjusted in alignment with the blade.
What is the difference between the G0715P and G0711 miter gauges?
The main difference between the miter gauges included with these saws is their appearance, handle, and lock-release mechanism. Otherwise, both miter gauges are made from cast aluminum, can adjust from 90 degrees to 45 degrees (left or right), and have adjustment stops to quickly allow you to set the angle of the miter gauge with repeatable accuracy. The lock-release mechanism on the G0715P is a spring-retractable knurled pin that must be pulled out in order to clear the positioning stops. The lock-release mechanism on the G0771 is a simple thumb lever that must be depressed in order to clear the positioning stops. Although more people tend to prefer the lock-release mechanism on the G0771 miter gauge, more people tend to prefer the larger handle on the G0715P miter gauge, so one miter gauge really doesn't have an advantage over the other.
The G0771 and G0715P are nearly identical in size and features, so why does the G0771 weigh almost 100 lbs. less than the G0715P?
The main reason for the weight difference is that the G0771 uses aluminum components (e.g. fence, rails, handwheels, blade guard frame) in many places where the G0715P uses steel (fence, rails, blade guard frame) and cast-iron (handwheels). The trunnion castings and table components on both machines are constructed with cast iron and are nearly identical in size and heft.
General Questions and Answers:
How do I know which size of motor I'll need for my table saw?
Assuming the correct blade is installed for any specific type of cut, the answer primarily depends on these three factors: (1) your average stock thickness, (2) your typical wood type or variety, and (3) your anticipated cutting frequency or overall demands placed on the saw. First, it is important to note that with a slow enough feed rate, any of our table saws can cut through a piece of hardwood up to that saw's maximum cutting height. Unfortunately, using too slow of a feed rate can result in burn marks in your workpiece, and using a feed rate that is so aggressive that it causes a motor to bog down will quickly increase the motor's internal temperature to a state of thermal breakdown. Once a motor reaches this state, continued operation (without allowing sufficient cool-down time between cuts) will result in the motor becoming so hot that its winding insulation will completely fail and the motor will die. A larger motor, however, could easily perform the exact same type of work without ever reaching a state of thermal breakdown. With that in mind, your goal should be to select a motor size that will handle the majority of what you'll be cutting on a regular basis, without bogging the motor down. To translate this into a more practical perspective, generally speaking, a 1.5 HP motor used with an aggressive feed rate can repeatedly cut 6/4 (1.5") soft woods and 4/4 (1") hardwoods without bogging down. A 3 HP motor, on the other hand, can repeatedly cut the same type of stock with the same type of feed rate at approximately twice that size without bogging down.
What are the differences between contractor, hybrid, and cabinet saws?
A "Contractor" table saw is generally a light-duty saw with an open-stand and is usually equipped with a 1.5 HP to 2 HP motor that can be operated on a common 120V power supply, making it portable and convenient enough to take from jobsite to jobsite for carpentry work, trim work, and small cabinetry or furniture work. To keep the weight down, contractor saws often use sheet-metal wings instead of cast-iron wings, and their trunnions and other internal components use less cast iron or steel, making them much less beefy than those same components used in cabinet saws. A few other typical hallmarks of contractor saws are non-enclosed motors (making them slightly louder and sometimes resulting in a lack of dust collection) and trunnions mounted to the bottom of the table instead of the cabinet (making them slightly more difficult to align the blade to the miter slot or fence). The lighter-duty components used in their construction typically means that contractor saws also cost less than other saw types. The low cost, high portability, and convenience of operating on a 120V power supply, combined with included fence systems that often rival those used on cabinet saws, has historically made the contractor saw a favorite option for the hobbyist or beginning woodworker. A "Cabinet" table saw is a heavy-duty saw with an enclosed cabinet-style stand and usually a 3 HP or larger motor that operates on a 240V power supply, making it the top choice for professional woodworkers, serious amateurs, or production shops that require day-in and day-out reliability and the ability to regularly cut thick hardwoods. Unlike contractor saws, cabinet saws have much thicker castings for the trunnions and arbor assembly, which attach to the cabinet instead of the table (making blade alignment adjustments easier), and they usually have full cast-iron wings, which combined with the beefier trunnions and heavy cabinet stand, give them a lot more vibration-dampening weight. Additionally, the enclosed cabinet stands result in quieter operation and usually have much better dust collection. A "Hybrid" table saw is a newer category of saw that is considered to be a cross between a contractor saw and a cabinet saw. Like cabinet saws, hybrid saws typically have cabinets or stands with enclosed motors (providing quieter operation and easier dust collection) and trunnions that mount to the stand (making blade alignment adjustments easier). Like contractor saws, hybrids are generally constructed with lighter-duty components and materials (keeping costs and overall weight down), and they are usually equipped with 1.5 HP to 2 HP motors (allowing them to operate on a common 120V power supply). Because hybrid saws are often priced near contractor saws and they offer many of the additional benefits that cabinet saws provide over contractor saws, they are quickly becoming the saw of choice for the serious hobbyist or the professional woodworker on a budget.
How do I know what type of blade I should buy?
Blade choice is determined by the type and purpose of cut, hardness and thickness of stock, and desired trade-offs between cutting speed versus cut quality. Generally speaking, a blade with fewer teeth cuts faster but makes a lower quality cut, and a blade with more teeth cuts slower but makes a higher quality cut. We offer a wide variety of blades from a handful of different manufacturers. All of our blades are clearly designated by either blade function, cut type, or material type.
What is the purpose of the riving knife?
The riving knife is used for non-through cuts. It is a metal plate positioned in alignment behind the blade to prevent the newly-cut workpiece sides from pinching on or pushing against the backside of the blade and causing kickback. The riving knife also acts as a barrier behind the blade to reduce the risk of hands being pulled into the blade if they are positioned incorrectly when kickback occurs.
Can I still use my table saw without connecting it to a dust collector?
Yes, but we don't recommend it. Without using a dust collector, the dust will quickly pile up inside and around your machine, resulting in additional cleaning time later. Besides making a mess, fine dust can be harmful to your respiratory system. A better choice is to connect your table saw to a properly-designed dust collection system that at least pulls the recommended minimum CFM for your saw's dust port.
Can I cut metal or other non-wood materials with your table saws?
Although our table saws will physically cut many different types of materials, they are only designed to cut natural wood or wood-based materials (plywood, MDF, OSB, etc.). Cutting materials not intended to be cut on a woodworking table saw can result in serious injury to the operator or bystanders, and it could decrease the life of the saw and void the warranty.