Grizzly G0771 - 10" Hybrid Table Saw
click to zoom
This hybrid is a selective blend of the best features of the contractor-style table saw and cabinet style table saw. Like the cabinet saw, it has an enclosed cabinet with 4" dust port, heavy-duty cast-iron trunnions that mount to the cabinet, and plenty of power (with its 2 HP motor) to easily rip through hardwoods or cut dadoes. Like the contractor-style saw, it's still light enough to move around (it weighs approximately 286 lbs. when fully assembled) and it's easy on the budget. The fence on this machine is also a hybrid of some of the best features we've had on table saws in the last 30+ years. It has the easy lift-off and simple adjustability of the popular T-shape Shop Fox Classic fence, the rock-solid front-and-rear locking ability of the Shop Fox Original fence, and the accessory T-slots of the Shop Fox Aluma-Classic fence. To top it all off, this saw features an innovative quick-release blade guard and riving knife system that can be changed in seconds—and it's prewired to run on an ordinary 120V, 20A circuit!
- Cast iron table and extension wings
- Cast iron trunnions
- Easy-glide fence system
- Quick-release blade guard & riving knife
- 4" Dust port
- T-slot miter gauge
- Includes 10" x 40T carbide-tipped blade
- ETL listed
- Motor: 2 HP, 120V/240V, 15A/7.5A, prewired 120V, single-phase, 60 Hz
- Precision-ground cast iron table with wings measures: 40-1/2" W x 27" D
- Table height: 35-3/8"
- Footprint: 21" L x 19-1/2" W
- Arbor: 5/8"
- Arbor speed: 3450 RPM
- Max. depth of cut @ 90 degree: 3-1/4"
- Max. depth of cut @ 45 degree: 2-1/4"
- Rip capacity: 30" right, 15" left
- Overall size: 57-1/4" W x 35-3/8" H x 37-1/2" D
- Approximate shipping weight: 330 lbs.
Accessories and Related Items:
You May Also Like:
Customers who purchased this item also purchased:
22 Customer Reviews (4.8 out of 5 stars): Sign in to write a review
Previously, I was making dust with an old Craftsman contractor saw that I had rebuilt. What is most noticeable about this G0771 is that it is very quiet when running. Mind you, the dbs go up when you put wood to the blade, but what a wonderful difference. I will not damage my hearing with this saw. Also, it is easy to assemble, and particularly easy to align the blade with the miter gauge groove. Mine didn't arrive aligned, but then it had tipped over on the delivery truck. My lady says I am now much more co-habitable now. Aligning had been a misery with the prior saw, but I am amazed how easy this was. The best buy for the money since a lady I met in Saigon.
I bought this saw a month ago and am spent a lot of time dialing it in. The table insert does not sit flush to the table and because of its design has been difficult to shim. The insert is thicker where the stainless inset is than the rest of the insert. The screw holes are not countersunk and the screw heads stick up catching material running over them. This is true for both the standard and the dado insert. So far I love everything else about the saw. The fence, motor, blade tilt and height adjustments, etc. are very good but it's the little things.
I have had this saw since about February. I have put several thousand board feet through it without any real issues. The biggest pro about the saw is the cabinet-mounted trunnions. The biggest con would be the fence. If the put the G0715P fence on this saw, Grizzly wouldn't be able to keep it in stock.
I have a YouTube channel where I go over the up boxing and setup of this saw. I also made a video review of this model. It can be found here:
I'm a longtime woodworking hobbyist who had owned a Shopsmith for over 20 years. I finally decided to upgrade to a better saw than is offered by Shopsmith. I did a lot of research. Ideally, I would have liked a cabinet saw, but lacked the shop space for such an arrangement, and was not ready to fork out the $2k+ that the more popular saws commanded. I had about decided to buy a good quality contractor saw, when I ran across several articles about hybrid saws, which lead me to researching the two Grizzly hybrids - the G0715 and the recently released G0771.
In reading all the reviews and info that are out there on the Internet, I liked the specs better for the 771, in particular the fact that the trunnions were cabinet mounted rather than table mounted as on the 715 (and as is done on the Shopsmith, which I never liked). But, the write-ups about the saw were not overly complimentary. They talked to quality issues with some of the parts and of the product manual which was apparently flawed. There were comments about the table inserts not fitting properly and about the cast iron wings not fitting properly. Then there was a damning write-up and You Tube video speaking to the poor quality in the fence supplied with the saw. Since most reviews spoke to more knowledge and familiarity with the 715 hybrid, the consensus seemed to be to stick with the 715 until Grizzly sorted out the flaws with the 771. After thinking about it, I decided to gamble on the 771, and am writing this review to say that, to date, I am extremely pleased with my decision and with the saw.
Once ordered, the saw arrived in 2 days! I paid the tailgate surcharge to get the saw dropped off in my driveway. Actually, the driver was able to offload the saw onto a furniture dolly I provided, which then allowed me to easily wheel the saw into my shop The saw was extremely well boxed and the packaging broke down quite easily. I had purchased the optional saw dolly which I assembled first. Well engineered and easy to assemble. Made in Taiwan, which is fine.
Inventory on the saw and the bits and pieces shipped with it went well. Nothing missing. And a few extra nuts and bolts thrown in for good measure.
It did take two of us to lift the saw off the pallet once the carton was disassembled. We set it on the floor. And, as I assembled the dolly, it was easy for me to tip the saw up to slide the dolly halves under each side. Easily a one person task. It did take two of us to attach the cast iron wings. Though heavy, they are awkward to be installed easily by one person. So, my helper held them in place while I inserted the socket head cap screws into the main table. Beyond attaching the wings, the rest of the assembly was easily a one person job.
The assembly went well. Errors in the manual squawked by earlier owners have, for the most part, been corrected. There were a few sentences in the manual that were a little confusing, but one can easily figure out the correct way to perform the described task.
I will admit that I fell into the trap of removing the screws from the table insert area, setting the insert down on the table and then using the screws to attach it......which results in the insert set below the surface of the table and attached with flathead screws, when one would have expected countersunk flat screws. I wondered about that, since it did not seem right, until I picked up comments about owners who had "figured out" that the inserts sit on top of the flat head screws; and, that the screws were used to level the insert, rather than to attach it. There is probably a good reason for this "strange" design, but I haven't figured it out just yet.
Earlier write-ups had talked about issues with setting up the saw. I was expecting issues there, as well, but am happy to report that every adjustment was exactly correct, with the exception of having to adjust the scale hairline indicator very slightly. But, that is a 10 second task.
Now that the saw is fully assembled and has been fired up, I have but two negative comments. The first is that the power chord is too short. At 6 feel in length, you have to pretty much have a power source right at the saw. So, I changed out the chord upgrading to 12 gauge wire while doubling the length of the chord. Shortly, I will convert the motor to run on 220 as soon as I can run a dedicated service from my breaker panel. Once converted to 220, the 12 gauge chord will be more than adequate to carry the reduced amps associated with 220 service.
My last gripe is that the miter gauge supplied with the saw lacks adjustment for the table slot. I expected this, since this is a squawk with many saws. Anticipating this I had purchased an Incra Miter Gauge which is adjustable to properly fit the miter slot on the table.
Incidentally, the fence is absolutely perpendicular to the saw table. No adjustments required. Since it has T-bolt slots on both sides and top, it should be easy to attach accessories, as needed, to the fence. I was prepared to upgrade to a Biesmeyer type fence, but I'll wait to see how the Grizzly fence performs. On first blush, it seems to work fine.
I'll update this review, if necessary, after I have put some time on the saw. But, for now, I am extremely pleased with the cost and quality of my investment. A great replacement for my Shopsmith!
For years I have used my brothers or friends table saws. I never had the space for a shop so I would always borrow. It gave me experience in how different companies build their equipment. I saw and heard a lot of pro's and con's on many Table Saws and discovered that Grizzly makes well build products. When I finally bought a house with an area designated for my shop (garage) I began my search for a table saw. I'll admit I was drawn to Grizzly's G0715 and G0771 because of quality and price. I originally wanted the G0715.....then I found out how much it would cost to run 220 to it and bailed on the idea. I bought the G0771.
The instructions I got were the wrong set but Grizzly emailed me the right set very quickly. It took a while to get everything square (Blade, Fence, Table) because I'm a perfectionist....and apparently not very bright.... but I eventually figured it out.
I was worried about the Fence and Miter because of what I had read, so I was prepared to exchange them if needed. The fence that came with mine was awesome, it's always dead on....I really like it. The miter?....Grizzly blew it.....I threw it away.
When I finally turned on the TS it ran for about 3 minutes, then the motor threw a bearing, froze up and died. I called Customer service and they sent a new motor with in a few days. I'm not a mechanic so a guy from tech support walked me through the removal and replacement of the motor. We were on the phone for like 45 minutes and he wouldn't let me hang up until he heard it running properly. Great experience.
So what I'm saying is it's a well build high quality table saw at an unbelievable price and their customer service and Tech support is fantastic.
I'm happy with my purchase and my Brother and friends are happy too.
I have had this saw for about a year now and it still amazes me how well it does the job. I am a small crafter and mover from the department store saw to the Grizzly. I was amazed at how well it set up right out of the crate. No fine tuning needed as the parts fit together like a much higher priced unit. This saw has never faltered and continues to be very smooth and accurate. The Saw itself made the quality of mu work go way up. You can't turnout high quality work on cheap equipment, and this Grizzly table saw takes all the work out of being good. Thanks for providing top quality tools at an affordable price.
Bought this in June, took a couple hours to dial it in, consistently make cuts to 0.003 in per foot. Rewired for 220v. Passes the nickel test and extremely quiet, had to wire a 220v light into the On Off switch to indicate when the saw is running, can not be heard over the dust collector. Well satisfied with this saw.
I would point out that Grizzly has added Excellent to my review, not actually giving me an option to select the number of stars. I would rate this at 4.5 out of 5 stars. The trunions and the cabinet moved the blade to within .005 as advertised. I didn't have trouble setting the cast iron panels in the top and leveling. I've heard a lot of people discuss shimming but I think its mostly a manner of keeping the top level while tightening. This saw, at least the top, appears to be a rebadged Rigid 4512. Zero clearance inserts and extension wings for the 4512 will fit this saw. The motor and trunions are Grizzly however, don't try to swap these parts out with Ridgid. There are a lot of complaints about the fence. Complaint one is that the rails come in two pieces. I had no trouble joining these pieces and making the fence straight. However, this saw is made in China and I can see this not being true in every case. Grizzly customer service is very good about fixing these problems, for the price I think this is a reasonable trade off. Other complaints are the fence is loose. And this can be true, there are several adjustments on it which I recommend you learn. There is a nice youtube video for the Ridgit 4512 that shows this process. I actually like the fence, after learning how to adjust it. I mostly use a cross cut sled on my saw, not cutting a lot of panels. When I do cut a panel I take a minute and square the fence and lock it down. It helps to push down and forward when locking the fence. As has been discussed by many, if you are willing to cut new holes you can add a bessemeyer fence. That would leave this table under 1K, and I think for many may be a good option. And if you aren't willing to alter your own table or learn how to use the available settings, than you probably shouldn't be shopping at this level of the market. Also, as suggested by many, the blade insert that comes with the saw sits on top of the screws, and is not screwed down. I haven't had trouble with this although I can imagine the zert coming free when cutting a large panel. I have read others made zerts to thickness and countersunk holes to screw them in. You need to purchase longer screws to make this a reality. I haven't actually read anyone has had the blade insert come loose, not something I'm planning at this time. I'm happy with my saw.
I've only had this saw for a week and love it. This is my first table saw and assembling and adjusting it were very easy. The only issue I had were the threads on the end of the tilt shaft weren't machined right. Called Grizzly Tuesday afternoon. My new part was at my house Thursday. Passes the nickel test with ease. Couldn't be happier!
I've had the saw for a few weeks and really enjoy the ease of use. This was a big step up from a 10 year old Craftsman contractor TS. If you don't have a dust collector, you will want to get one for this saw.
Alignment wise it was spot on right out of the crate. Last - if having it shipped pay for the lift gate service and buy a mobile stand if you have a small work space like I do. It's very swell built and I think a great value for the price.
Product itself is great. Delivery was a problem and involved extra cost.
Its a great saw at a great price,it will do the work of a 5000 dallor saw
The saw did require several adjustments. The table was not square to the blade, but the location of the adjustment bolts is accessible from the outside. A piece of cake. The throat plate was warped, but a quick call to customer service had a new flat unit on hand shortly. Rewiring to 220 volts was clear and easily accomplished. Overall the performance has been excellent. I really like the dust collection configuration. My only disappointment is that a zero throat plate is not available from Grizzle. &amp;amp;quot;It would be too thin&amp;amp;quot; was the response when I talked to the technical service folks. How come third parties are able to make a perfectly acceptable option? It would seem to me that Grizzle should at least offer these alternatives through their sales group as they do with the mobile bases. Overall, great saw, do not hesitate to purchase.
Prior to this I've used inexpensive portable table saws for years. So my threshold for product satisfaction may be less than expert & experienced carpenters. However, it is definitely a well made, powerful table saw for the money. I've had it for a few months now and mainly used it to true up and size boards made on my chainsaw mill. So I'm ripping rough cut pine slabs from 1 to 4-inch thick. I've also used it for cutting commercial plywood to sizes needed. It does all jobs well. No motor bogging down, easy & true fence alignment, and very stable platform for supporting long heavy pieces of wood. Blade change is also as easy as on any slide and I recommend having and using a set of medium price/quality blades in assorted tooth patterns/numbers for the job at hand. Finally, I did the 220-v conversion and recommend it. It was easy and I think part of why the motor performs so strongly. Only negative I can come up with is the blade guard. It so comprehensively covers everything that it makes it hard to get the tape measure in there when you don't want to trust the scale on the fence guides for precise sizing. Consequently, I'm already finding myself leaving it off more of the time than I should.
Although, I have not been able to use this machine since I received it, it appears to run very smoothly.
Lets just saw I am somewhat new to wood working, and that I am not the sharpest pencil on the desk.<br /><br />With that being said I believe that this is a really good saw and the only reason I am not giving it 5 stars is due to the manual in the setup/assembly of the saw.<br /><br />Here are the complaints<br /><br />Step 4: instructs attaching motor cover with pre-installed phillips head screws,which after tearing through all the box's and bags none were found. I finally figured it out that there were supplied Allen head screws to use for it.<br /><br />Step 5: Attaching the front fence rails. They come in two pieces and no indication of which ends to put together to make one piece.<br /><br />Step 12: Assembling the rear fence to the table saw. No indication that only the table it self has threaded screw holes for hex bolts to attach to, and not the wings of the table top. I had to figure it out that there were extra nuts to use to attach them to the table wings.<br /><br />Step 37: Like step 4, it instructs you to attach rear access panel with pre-installed phillip head screws. None to be found so used supplied Allen head screws.<br /><br />Now with all the negative I have stated above I do believe it is a good quality saw that is reasonably priced for the entry level woodworker. I have only put a few pieces of wood through it but it seems to be working fine. Like stated else where it is fairly quiet. I do wish the electrical cord was a little longer.
After the disappointment of receiving a damaged one and getting another shipped I am pleased with how this process was handled. I was able to get saw assembled and adjusted per very helpful videos. A big thank you to all of the Grizzly staff who made this experience worthwhile. I love the saw and am enjoying it very much.
This all has all the features a do it yourself would need. the fence is not as accurate as one that you would pay several hundred dollars for , but with just an additional amount of effort you can make a decent straight cut . It has good power and is relatively quiet .
I bought the 10" Hybrid table saw very happy with it good quality good service.
If I had been aware of this saw I would have replaced my 1960 Craftsman saw without waiting 60 years.
Common Questions and Answers about the G0771:
What is needed for converting this machine to 220V?
First, review the circuit requirements in the Owner's Manual to make sure you have the appropriate 220V power supply circuit and wall receptacle installed in your shop. Converting the machine to 220V involves (1) disconnecting saw from power supply, (2) cutting off existing power cord plug, (3) reconfiguring wire connections inside the motor junction box, and (4) installing the appropriate 220V plug (see Owner's Manual for full details). CAUTION: To reduce the risk of electrocution or fire, only an electrician or qualified service personnel should perform this procedure.
Does Grizzly sell a zero-clearance table insert for this saw?
Unfortunately, no, we don't have a zero-clearance table insert available for the G0771 at this time.
Can I install an H8875 or G1317 Roller Extension Table on this table saw?
Yes, but we don't recommend it for two reasons: The first, and most important, is that the saw is just not heavy enough to prevent tipping from the combined weight of the roller table and a workpiece being cantilevered off its backside. The second reason is that the top plate of the mounting bracket must be mounted to the rear cabinet cover, which makes it difficult to access the inside of the cabinet from behind.
What are the main differences between the G0771 and G0715P hybrid table saws?
The main differences between these two models are: the fence system, the blade guard/riving knife design, the miter gauge, overall heft or weight, and pre-wired voltage. Otherwise, both machines offer 2 HP motors and have similar features, table sizes, cutting capacities, and standard equipment. The G0715P is pre-wired for a 240V power supply but can easily be rewired for 120V. The G0771 is pre-wired for 120V but can easily be rewired for 240V.
What is the difference between the G0715P and G0771 fences?
The G0715P uses a classic T-shape fence system that is equipped with HDPE fence faces on both sides and locks against the front rail on three sides, using a camlock lever handle (the same fence system used on our G0690/G0691 cabinet saws). This fence system lifts off easily and features multi-axis adjustment screws for high-precision calibration to the blade, which is what controls the cutting accuracy of the saw. The G0771 uses a front/rear locking fence system that is equipped with T-slots on both sides and the top for easy attachment of aftermarket or shop-made accessories, such as anti-kickback board buddies, featherboards, special-purpose fence jigs, etc. Unlike some front/rear locking fence designs, the G0771 fence can be lifted directly off the rails when in the unlocked position--just as easily (if not more, due to its light weight) as the G0715P fence. The G0715P fence will also hold aftermarket or shop-made accessories, but attaching them usually requires clamping or removing the HDPE fence faces and using the mounting holes for securing.
What is the difference between the G0715P and G0771 blade guard/riving knife designs?
The blade guards and riving knives on both of these machines perform the same function. The difference between the two mainly has to do with the appearance of the blade guard and the mechanisms used when swapping the riving knife with the blade guard spreader. Both setups allow the riving knife and spreader to be quickly swapped without requiring any additional tools. Additionally, both setups allow the anti-kickback pawls to be locked in a retracted position and allow the riving knife to be adjusted in alignment with the blade.
What is the difference between the G0715P and G0711 miter gauges?
The main difference between the miter gauges included with these saws is their appearance, handle, and lock-release mechanism. Otherwise, both miter gauges are made from cast aluminum, can adjust from 90 degrees to 45 degrees (left or right), and have adjustment stops to quickly allow you to set the angle of the miter gauge with repeatable accuracy. The lock-release mechanism on the G0715P is a spring-retractable knurled pin that must be pulled out in order to clear the positioning stops. The lock-release mechanism on the G0771 is a simple thumb lever that must be depressed in order to clear the positioning stops. Although more people tend to prefer the lock-release mechanism on the G0771 miter gauge, more people tend to prefer the larger handle on the G0715P miter gauge, so one miter gauge really doesn't have an advantage over the other.
The G0771 and G0715P are nearly identical in size and features, so why does the G0771 weigh almost 100 lbs. less than the G0715P?
The main reason for the weight difference is that the G0771 uses aluminum components (e.g. fence, rails, handwheels, blade guard frame) in many places where the G0715P uses steel (fence, rails, blade guard frame) and cast-iron (handwheels). The trunnion castings and table components on both machines are constructed with cast iron and are nearly identical in size and heft.
General Questions and Answers:
How do I know which size of motor I'll need for my table saw?
Assuming the correct blade is installed for any specific type of cut, the answer primarily depends on these three factors: (1) your average stock thickness, (2) your typical wood type or variety, and (3) your anticipated cutting frequency or overall demands placed on the saw. First, it is important to note that with a slow enough feed rate, any of our table saws can cut through a piece of hardwood up to that saw's maximum cutting height. Unfortunately, using too slow of a feed rate can result in burn marks in your workpiece, and using a feed rate that is so aggressive that it causes a motor to bog down will quickly increase the motor's internal temperature to a state of thermal breakdown. Once a motor reaches this state, continued operation (without allowing sufficient cool-down time between cuts) will result in the motor becoming so hot that its winding insulation will completely fail and the motor will die. A larger motor, however, could easily perform the exact same type of work without ever reaching a state of thermal breakdown. With that in mind, your goal should be to select a motor size that will handle the majority of what you'll be cutting on a regular basis, without bogging the motor down. To translate this into a more practical perspective, generally speaking, a 1.5 HP motor used with an aggressive feed rate can repeatedly cut 6/4 (1.5") soft woods and 4/4 (1") hardwoods without bogging down. A 3 HP motor, on the other hand, can repeatedly cut the same type of stock with the same type of feed rate at approximately twice that size without bogging down.
What are the differences between contractor, hybrid, and cabinet saws?
A "Contractor" table saw is generally a light-duty saw with an open-stand and is usually equipped with a 1.5 HP to 2 HP motor that can be operated on a common 120V power supply, making it portable and convenient enough to take from jobsite to jobsite for carpentry work, trim work, and small cabinetry or furniture work. To keep the weight down, contractor saws often use sheet-metal wings instead of cast-iron wings, and their trunnions and other internal components use less cast iron or steel, making them much less beefy than those same components used in cabinet saws. A few other typical hallmarks of contractor saws are non-enclosed motors (making them slightly louder and sometimes resulting in a lack of dust collection) and trunnions mounted to the bottom of the table instead of the cabinet (making them slightly more difficult to align the blade to the miter slot or fence). The lighter-duty components used in their construction typically means that contractor saws also cost less than other saw types. The low cost, high portability, and convenience of operating on a 120V power supply, combined with included fence systems that often rival those used on cabinet saws, has historically made the contractor saw a favorite option for the hobbyist or beginning woodworker. A "Cabinet" table saw is a heavy-duty saw with an enclosed cabinet-style stand and usually a 3 HP or larger motor that operates on a 240V power supply, making it the top choice for professional woodworkers, serious amateurs, or production shops that require day-in and day-out reliability and the ability to regularly cut thick hardwoods. Unlike contractor saws, cabinet saws have much thicker castings for the trunnions and arbor assembly, which attach to the cabinet instead of the table (making blade alignment adjustments easier), and they usually have full cast-iron wings, which combined with the beefier trunnions and heavy cabinet stand, give them a lot more vibration-dampening weight. Additionally, the enclosed cabinet stands result in quieter operation and usually have much better dust collection. A "Hybrid" table saw is a newer category of saw that is considered to be a cross between a contractor saw and a cabinet saw. Like cabinet saws, hybrid saws typically have cabinets or stands with enclosed motors (providing quieter operation and easier dust collection) and trunnions that mount to the stand (making blade alignment adjustments easier). Like contractor saws, hybrids are generally constructed with lighter-duty components and materials (keeping costs and overall weight down), and they are usually equipped with 1.5 HP to 2 HP motors (allowing them to operate on a common 120V power supply). Because hybrid saws are often priced near contractor saws and they offer many of the additional benefits that cabinet saws provide over contractor saws, they are quickly becoming the saw of choice for the serious hobbyist or the professional woodworker on a budget.
How do I know what type of blade I should buy?
Blade choice is determined by the type and purpose of cut, hardness and thickness of stock, and desired trade-offs between cutting speed versus cut quality. Generally speaking, a blade with fewer teeth cuts faster but makes a lower quality cut, and a blade with more teeth cuts slower but makes a higher quality cut. We offer a wide variety of blades from a handful of different manufacturers. All of our blades are clearly designated by either blade function, cut type, or material type.
What is the purpose of the riving knife?
The riving knife is used for non-through cuts. It is a metal plate positioned in alignment behind the blade to prevent the newly-cut workpiece sides from pinching on or pushing against the backside of the blade and causing kickback. The riving knife also acts as a barrier behind the blade to reduce the risk of hands being pulled into the blade if they are positioned incorrectly when kickback occurs.
Can I still use my table saw without connecting it to a dust collector?
Yes, but we don't recommend it. Without using a dust collector, the dust will quickly pile up inside and around your machine, resulting in additional cleaning time later. Besides making a mess, fine dust can be harmful to your respiratory system. A better choice is to connect your table saw to a properly-designed dust collection system that at least pulls the recommended minimum CFM for your saw's dust port.
Can I cut metal or other non-wood materials with your table saws?
Although our table saws will physically cut many different types of materials, they are only designed to cut natural wood or wood-based materials (plywood, MDF, OSB, etc.). Cutting materials not intended to be cut on a woodworking table saw can result in serious injury to the operator or bystanders, and it could decrease the life of the saw and void the warranty.