Grizzly G0555LX - 14" Deluxe Bandsaw
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- Computer-balanced cast iron wheels
- Sturdy T-shape fence design
CSA certified meeting CSA C22.2 #71.2-10 and UL 987-7th standards!
- All ball bearing construction
- Cast iron frame
- Precision-ground cast iron table
- Computer balanced cast iron wheels with rubber tires
- 4" dust port
- Upper and lower ball bearing blade guides and thrust bearings
- Open frame stand
- Includes 3/8" blade, extruded aluminum fence, and miter gauge
- Rack-and-pinion guide post adjustment for upper blade guides
- Motor: 1 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase, TEFC, 1725 RPM, prewired 110V
- Amps: 11A at 110V, 5.5A at 220V
- Table size: 14" x 14" x 1-1/2"
- Table tilt: 45 deg. right, 10 deg. left
- Floor to table height: 43"
- Cutting capacity/throat: 13-1/2"
- Maximum cutting height: 6"
- Blade size: 93-1/2" (1/8" to 3/4" wide)
- Blade speed: 1800, 3100 FPM
- Overall dimensions: 27" wide x 67-1/4" high x 30" deep
- Approximate shipping weight: 246 lbs.
3 Customer Reviews (4.5 out of 5 stars): Sign in to write a review
I purchased the G0555LX band saw and must say that it is one very well made machine. I would recommend this saw to anyone wanting a 14" saw. It is heavy and does not have any vibration, the table is flat, I also liked the micro adjusters for the blade rollers. Thanks for making an affordable professional band saw.
A satisfied customer.
Purchased the G0555LX a few days ago based upon online reviews. Check Amazon for reviews but the best price is here at Grizzly.com. For full disclosure- I've never owned a bandsaw before.
First the good....shipping, assembly, quality and results were all good. I did not need to pay extra for a lift service on delivery- the shipper offloaded with a power fork lift and dropped them right in my garage. No damages. I attached the base to the main unit while it was horizontal and then, with a friends help, tilted it upright. Instructions were OK. With the table off and tension on the blade, I used a good straightedge and found the top wheel to be 1/8 inch back from the plane of the lower wheel. Parallel but not coplanar. The instructions suggest to correct this with shims but this conflicts with their assurance that the wheels were aligned at the factory. Hmmmm. I left it as is and had no problem maintaining blade centering once everything else was tuned and adjusted. Now the bad...The tension scale was grossly off, the band saw blade was of poor quality, and the guide post wandered to the left from its high to low position. Here are the details...1) Setting the tension scale for the 3/8" blade provided, and with the quick release lever engaged, I could use my fingers to pull the blade up off the upper wheel by 1/4". Very loose! Recalibrating the scale was a little hit and miss but eventually I think I corrected it. With good tension and despite the wheels being non-coplanar, the blade tracked well especially after tweaking the tracking knob. Then, after adding the table, optimizing the guide bearings and believing everthing was adjusted properly, I turned it on. Sounded good except for a repetitive clicking that revealed a bad weld in the blade plus it cut 3/4 pine very slow and rough. Replacing this with a new woodslicer blade from Highland WW, was far-far better! 2) Then I discovered that when I adjusted the bearing guides (~0.016" off the blade) with the guide post in the full, up position, then lowered the guide post to just above a 3/4 board, the right sided bearing was seriously deflecting the blade. I estimate the travel to be at least 1/16". I figited and fussed, replaced the stock blade, replaced the bearing mounts (extras are provided), and the problem went away. ???? I don't have a clue. I've a 1/4" woodslicer on there now- it'll be interesting to see how it tracks with a 1/2 inch reslicer blade.
So....It had issues. But after adjustments and replacing the stock blade it purrs right along. Overall I am pleased.
I purchased this band saw as my first one. I have 2 other Grizzly power tools and love both of them, so I thought it was a safe venture. It arrived packed like dynamite and was in perfect shape. The assembly was easy, and the fit was superb. I took plenty of care putting the saw together and checking the adjustments. Grizzly makes this easy because you put it together and it is set. No fine tuning needed with these tools. The saw does everything they said it would do and more. I like being able to have top quality tools without breaking the bank. it saves money for more accessories.
Common Questions and Answers about the G0555LX:
What are the key differences between the various G0555 Series machines?
Aside from paint color and labeling, the G0555 and G0555P are identical machines; they are equipped with a 1 HP motor, aluminum wheels, manually-adjustable guide post, extruded aluminum fence, and open-style stand. The G0555X was built with the same basic design as the G0555/G0555P, but it is equipped with a 1.5 HP motor, cast-iron wheels, manually-adjustable guide post, a cabinet-style stand, a worklight, and a cast-iron fence with optional resaw fence attachment. The G0555LX and G0555LANV, aside from appearances, are also identical machines; however, they are built from a different design than the G0555/G0555P, so very few parts are interchangeable. The G0555LX and G0555LANV are equipped with a 1 HP motor, cast-iron wheels, extruded aluminum fence, rack-and-pinion adjustable guide post, open-style stand, and a padlock for the ON/OFF switch.
What is needed for converting this machine to 220V?
First, review the circuit requirements in the Owner's Manual to make sure you have the appropriate 220V power supply circuit and wall receptacle installed in your shop. Converting the saw to 220V involves (1) disconnecting saw from power supply, (2) cutting off existing power cord plug, (3) reconfiguring wire connections inside the motor junction box, and (4) installing the appropriate 220V plug (see Owner's Manual for full details). CAUTION: To reduce the risk of electrocution or fire, only an electrician or qualified service personnel should perform this procedure.
What is CSA? What does "CSA Certified" mean?
CSA (Canadian Standards Association) is an organization based out of Canada that is very similar to UL (Underwriters Laboratory) in the USA. Like UL, CSA provides two primary services. First, they develop Canada's minimum standards for the design, construction, and safety of a wide variety of products that are commercially sold in that country. These standards are completely voluntary and not a requirement for all products sold in Canada. Second, CSA acts as an NRTL (Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory), which is essentially a 3rd party testing agency that has their own engineers/inspectors test and evaluate a product to ensure that it meets the requirements established in the applicable standards document for the primary market where the products are sold. In Grizzly's case, this is the USA and Canada, so many Grizzly machines are certified (usually by CSA, UL, or ETL) to meet both CSA (Canada) and UL (USA) standards. So, although CSA produces their own standards, any NRTL (such as UL, ETL, TUV, etc.) can also certify the same products to the CSA standards. The reason why one NRTL is used over another typically just boils down to a business decision by the company paying the NRTL to test/evaluate their products. An important part of any NRTL certification, besides the initial testing/evaluation, is the ongoing compliance requirements necessary to maintain the certification. This involves both regular and random product checks by the NRTL's inspectors or engineers at the factory or on the consumer level.
If I put a riser block on my bandsaw, do I lose 6" of adjustment with the blade?
No, the riser block kits include a replacement guide post and blade guard, which allows the guide blocks to be adjusted within the full range of the additional 6" cutting height gained by its installation.
General Questions and Answers:
How do I know what type of blade I should buy?
Blade choice is typically determined by the type and purpose of cut, the hardness and thickness of wood, and the desired trade-offs between cutting speed vs. cutting quality. In general, a wider blade is preferred for cutting straight lines because the blade tends to wander less, and a narrower blade is preferred for cutting curves because it has a much tighter minimum cutting radius. The two main types of blade teeth are "Hook" and "Raker". Hook teeth tend to cut faster and leave rougher results, while Raker teeth tend to cut slower and leave smoother results. There are additional types of teeth, such as Skip, Positive Claw, or AS-S, that are essentially modified versions of the Hook or Raker tooth shapes, but with slight changes to the cutting angle, gullet-to-tooth ratio, tooth set, etc. to provide unique advantages for special types of cuts.
Can a metal bandsaw cut wood or vice versa?
The proper cutting speed for the majority of ferrous metals is under 300 FPM. The proper cutting speed for the majority of wood cuts is over 3000 FPM. Trying to cut metals on a wood bandsaw--at speeds 10 times faster than they should be--is dangerous and will likely result in a broken blade, damage to the bandsaw, and a really horrible cut. Cutting wood on a metal bandsaw is possible, but it would be tedious and slow, and likely would not produce a decent quality of cut. In addition, bandsaw blades for cutting wood are designed much differently than bandsaw blades for cutting metal. With that said, there are some soft, non-ferrous metals (such as aluminum) that can be cut at around 1500 FPM (if using the correct blade type). Although some of our wood bandsaws operate at approximately this same speed, the other components of these saws weren't designed to handle the metal chips and swarf that would be produced by the cut, which would likely result in minor damage to the machine and void the warranty. The bottom line is this: Always buy the right machine for the job!
What are the differences between ball bearing, block, and disc (a.k.a. "Euro style") guide blocks?
The main differences between blade guide types can be boiled down to four factors: (1) amount/quality of support, (2) amount of blade friction created from that support, (3) ease of set-up and adjustment, and (4) durability and maintenance frequency. Ball-bearing guides offer the best all-around balance of these four factors. Although they don't provide as much contact area for support as block or disc guides, they do maintain constant contact with the blade without greatly increasing friction. They are also the easiest to set up and tend to be the most durable. Disc guides provide the highest amount of contact area for support, but as with guide blocks, they must be positioned 0.004" away from the blade, which requires some type of gauge to be used for proper set up. Whereas some disc guides are fixed, similar to block guides, our Euro-Style disc guides spin with blade contact, which greatly reduces friction and the need for regular resurfacing. Block guides offer excellent support, but unless they're made from specialized materials to reduce wear or friction, they tend to fall behind the other guide types in all other categories.
What type of blade do I need for resawing?
Generally speaking, you'll want to use a wide blade (1/2" or larger) with "Hook" style teeth (or "Positive Claw" on Timberwolf blades) and a low number of teeth per inch (TPI). A wide blade helps ensure cuts are straight and the Hook style teeth have large gullets for removing material as the blade passes through the workpiece.
My bandsaw blade came with a tag on it that said "Recommended for cutting wood or soft non-ferrous metal." Does this mean I can cut metal with my wood bandsaw?
Just because the blade is recommended for both wood and soft, non-ferrous metal (e.g. aluminum, copper, etc.), it doesn't mean your wood bandsaw is suitable for cutting both types of material. It is important to keep in mind that the blade you bought may also be used on other types of bandsaws, such as our G0640X or G0621X, which are specially designed to cut both wood and metal.
Can I still use my bandsaw without connecting it to a dust collector?
Yes, this is possible, but we don't recommend it. Without using a dust collector, the dust will quickly pile up in and around your machine, resulting in additional cleaning time later. Besides making a mess, fine dust can be harmful to your respiratory system. It is a better choice to connect your bandsaw to a properly designed dust collection system that at least pulls the recommended minimum CFM from each dust port on the machine.
What is the purpose of the pin that fits in the blade slot opening at the end of the table?
All bandsaw tables are inherently weaker on the outside half of the table. This is due to the slotted opening that allows the blade to pass through the table during blade changes. The table pin helps reinforce the two sides of the table around this slot, so they remain aligned with each other and keep the table flat. For this reason, it is extremely important to always keep the table pin firmly installed, unless you're changing blades.