Grizzly G0555X - 14" Extreme Series Bandsaw
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Free shipping within the Contiguous United States.
Sales of this outlet item are limited to quantity on hand.
Free shipping within the Contiguous United States.
Sales of this outlet item are limited to quantity on hand.
Certified meeting UL & CSA standards!
- Deluxe heavy-duty stand
- Upper and lower ball bearing blade guides
- Includes 3/8" blade
- Fence scale with magnifying window
- Fence is adjustable for blade lead
- Cast iron frame
- Powder-coated paint
- 4" dust port
- Motor: 1-1/2 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase, 1725 RPM, 15A/7.5A, prewired 110V
- Table size: 20-1/2" x 14" x 1-1/2"
- Table tilt: 45° right, 15° left
- Floor-to-table height: 44"
- Includes deluxe extruded aluminum re-saw fence and miter gauge
- Cutting capacity/throat: 13-1/2"
- Maximum cutting height: 6"
- Blade size: 92-1/2" to 93-1/2" (1/8" to 3/4" wide)
- Precision-ground cast iron table
- Computer balanced cast iron wheels with rubber tires
- Footprint: 17-1/4" x 16"
- Overall size: 26" W x 67-1/4" H x 30" D
- Approximate shipping weight: 259 lbs.
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41 Customer Reviews (4.8 out of 5 stars): Sign in to write a review
The saw doesn't suck, but I don't understand how anyone can seriously give this a 5-star rating. To me, 5-star is "the very best," and not "it works", which is what I can say about this saw. It worked when I plugged it in. Since I've never used the 1HP version, I can't tell what difference the extra 1/2HP makes, but it adds $300 to the cost over the base unit, since none of the other upgrades are worth very much, as I'll explain. Because the fit and finish of the cabinet, plastic parts, and lack of wheels on a very heavy machine, this absolutely isn't 5-star.
As in a few other reviews, the sheet metal doors on my unit do not line up properly, requiring careful alignment and pushing to get them closed. They are sort of aligned, but not well-aligned. It doesn't make sense that the top-of-the-line 555 model didn't include a rolling stand. The upgrade includes a cabinet stand, but the door is on the backside of the saw and it doesn't have wheels to move it so you can get into the cabinet. So that "upgrade" really isn't one, unless your saw is sitting in the middle of your shop's floor. For my situation, a cardboard box next to the saw is more useful since it is easier to get to the things I put inside it. A cabinet with wheels on the bottom would have been an upgrade and really what I'd expect in the line's premier model.
The upgraded cast iron wheels spin, but again, it seems that close was good enough. The machine vibrates some when it's on, so tell the truth guys - they really aren't "precision balanced". They don't wobble so much I'm worried about them coming off their axles, but they do wobble a little. The cast iron table is very flat, but not easily set to zero. The design has 2 knobs under the table to tighten the table angle. There is no indexing mechanism, to let you know when it's back, so you need to zero it every time. And the scale isn't very helpful, since it's under the table. And the extension table does not line up with the table, on either axis. The left blade guard is plastic, but it works to keep you from getting cut. There is a tension release to ease some of the stress from the blade when not in use, which is a nice feature that should help with your blade's life.
I upgraded with the 6-inch riser block and mini-stand, which were another $170, along with Carter bearing guides, and now the saw is "better" but still, not 5-star. I changed out the guide bearings, but the ones that it came with were OK. They would hold their settings. I sealed and waxed the cast iron table and there's no sign of rust. It was well-covered in grease when it was shipped, which some people have complained about, but I would rather have to clean the table once than chase rust all the time. I cleaned the top with mineral spirits and immediately sealed it with Boeshield T-9, then waxed, and there isn't a speck of rust after 2 months. As for setup, it didn't take long to get the tracking and tension set so I don't have a drift problem when resawing. The included resaw fence is nice; it's tall enough to index against easily and it was easy to align to the miter slot. It stays locked down with 4 screws to hold it in place. It's wasn't quite perpendicular to the table, so I had to shim the back of it. The dust collection doesn't get much of the dust, since much of it gets caught at the lower guides. I end up cleaning up most of it with a wand. The worklight is attached to the back of the machine, which - for me - is the wrong side of the blade. The light glares off the cast iron table when it's behind the blade. It will move enough to light up the right side of the blade but doesn't reach all the way around so you can light up the workpiece. Better than nothing, maybe, but I put a light above the saw on in front of the blade so I can see where the cutting edge is in relation to my fingers.
It's an OK saw. It worked when I unpacked it and set it up, but you should expect that. The reason I don't recommend the 555X is because I don't believe the extra half-horsepower gained is worth all the extra expense. The upgrades don't make up the difference in cost, and some of them are flat-out annoying. Knowing what I do now, I might get the base 555 and add on all the other things I bought/had to buy anyway and saved almost $300.
A very nice bandsaw. Good power and capacity without taking up to much room in a small shop. Added riser block kit for extra resew capacity, works well.
I have had this for 3 months now and used the heck out of it. I bought it with the neck extension and mobile base. I also bought a couple of blades for it as the one it comes with is junk (they tell you that at grizzly). I have run A LOT of wood through it and it has plenty of power and runs quietly and smoothly. One of the guide bearings was seized and they got me another one in 4 days. Only issues so far are with the slot on the table having unbroken edges, which caught every time. I fixed those with a needle file. Other than that, fantastic saw.
Easy to setup was done in a couple of hours and was using the saw, this included making a custom roll around base setup. It does take two strong men to setup the saw.
Thanks for an excellent product.
I bought this saw last month and am very pleased with it. I have an issue with the lower wheel door, but Vince C. in Technical Services has been extremely helpful in resolving the issue. I purchased the mini mobile base with the saw. As a complete unit, it seems a little top heavy, but it rolls around smoothly. Just be sure to pull or push from the table, or lower. This is my fourth Grizzly machine, and I would definitely recommend this saw and all their other tools.
Despite the 2nd of two pictures highlighting a mobile base, I was really disappointed to spend $1000 on an â€œextreme editionâ€ bandsaw to find out I would have to spend another $60 on wheels. I feel it is a deceptive picture.
Crating for ocean shipping was good, assembled and adjusted well. It is solid and very precise for furniture work. Will see how well it handles logs to lumber when I get the proper blade shipped in.
Every part went together with out a hitch. I have two other band saws and this one may become one of my favorites.
A really nice tight saw.
I bought this saw a couple months ago. The blade that it came with tracked fine, but when I went to put on a smaller (3/16") blade, it won't stay on the saw. I've spent hours trying to dial it in, two separate phone calls to Grizzly, and no luck. The representatives I spoke with were very nice, but I want a saw that works!
So far it appears to be well made and an excellent machine. I will know more when I have had a chance to use it wor some special projects.
Placed an order for the G0555LX, but got antsy waiting on the back order after a month, so made the change to the G0555X. Assembled it from the box with the 6" expansion, the entire project was a breeze, fit and finish was spot on, the instruction were easy to follow, Once assembled first task was cutting 16 1 1/2" thick slices of 8"-10" diameter logs for a honey-do project, after twisting one blade due to operator error/ignorance and making the required correction all remaining cuts went well. Plenty of power, clean cut, very smooth and very impressive. Looking forward to using saw for more civilized applications. Well worth the change in the initial order. Will need dust collector connection ASAP.
I've had this saw for about a month, it performs great. To resaw with this saw is a dream, compaired to the saw I replaced. Thanks for a great product.
Wow, what an amazing saw, my wife was laughing at me as I sat on the curb in front of our house waiting for the truck to arrive, like a kid waiting for the ice cream truck I couldn't stop grinning. My Grizzly is the show piece of my little wood shop. I pray someday to have a shop full of Grizzly green. Nice job guys.
First time buying a Bandsaw. Was not disappointed. Love the way it works!!!
Excellent bandsaw, solid and steady, fairly easy setup with good instructions. The gooseneck lamp is well placed and I use it all the time. The rip fence is great, not sure why it's so heavy but heavy beats flimsy. (I have not yet tried the resaw fence.) My first homemade upgrade was a plywood bracket on the left side of the base to hold fences and accessories. Next I installed locking casters under the base which raise the saw a few inches, maybe too high for you unless you're somewhat tall. The casters cause no vibration or other problems.
My vacuum hose utilizes a "Y" so it attaches to the standard port as well as a vac attachment directly under the cutting area.
Nitpick: I understand why there are two AC cords (lamp and saw) but Grizzly could have done a better job of cord management. No biggie.
A great product! I am enjoying it very much. Out standing performance.
I am pleased with my purchase although I had to return the original order as it was damaged in shipment. I don't blame Grizzly but I think the problem was with the shipper that Grizzly used. After receiving the replacement, I discovered it was also damaged but this damage was something I could repair once I received replacement parts. Of course I had to make the repair myself but was very pleased that Grizzly sent me the repair parts immediately at, of course, no charge. I will definitely be an ongoing customer of Grizzly.
Always wanted a good band saw and this is more than expected. Very sturdy and strong.
Had a slight problem with an unexpected noise. Customer service returned my call promptly and solved the problem on the first try. Courteous and friendly they could not have been better. The bandsaw works quietly and accurately. Today I returned to the site and ordered a dust collection system. I am confident that I will be purchasing additional items as my budget permits. Thank you 10 out of ten stars.
One more Grizzly product that I'm very pleased with.
I bought this bandsaw for the purpose of re sawing. It works great cutting white oak.
I bought this to replace a Rikon 14 in ch bandsaw. For the same price, the saw was remarkably better made and designed. The quality of machining of the table and its controls, the base cabinet and latches and the rip guide were a big step up from Rikon. The lever controlled tension release was a welcome change, together with the slot in the table that makes blade changing relatively easy. Best of all was the control for the guide bearings which makes what had been a tedious process into a simple one. Good product.
Worked great for a project for my granddaughter. Now I wish I had more spare time to use it. Never heard of Grizzly until a friend told me about it. SO very happy he did. Very satisfied with the product.
This was a gift for my boyfriends birthday. He is in love and i am not sure if its more with me or his new bandsaw.
I purchased this for our shop and am very pleased how nice this bandsaw performs. It is a heavy and solid bandsaw. At this point, I have no complaints nor do I think that there will be any. It is perfectly smooth when running with no vibration. Solid, I would buy another one without taking a second thought.
I've owned my G0555 for about six years now, and it's been a joy to use. Assembly was a breeze and the machine was nicely balanced right from the get go. In fact, I bought the riser block with the saw and was nervous about installing it for fear of moving something out of alignment. I needn't have worried. With the riser installed, the saw ran just as smoothly as before.
I'm an experienced woodworker, but by no means a professional. I've been very impressed with how easy it is to cut smooth curves, producing results that look close to professional work. Very gratifying! Resawing thick, heavy stock (7" black locust) requires patience, but the saw will manage it nicely. If you plan to do a lot of resawing, you might be wise to consider the 1.5hp model.
One of the best features of the saw is the company support behind it. When a part is needed -- and that happens -- finding and ordering a replacement from the Grizzly web site couldn't be easier. And the prices are very reasonable!
I highly recommend this product.
I received my G0555X bandsaw on Thursday and I can not say enough good things about this product.
It is an amazing deal. My dad has been working with wood for 45 years and he was very impressed as well. He was a little skeptical until he saw my bandsaw.
The fit and finish are superb. The saw runs as smoothly as a sewing machine and cuts as accurately as a scalpel. I love it!
You have made a customer for life. Keep up the great work Grizzly!
Common Questions and Answers about the G0555X:
What are the key differences between the various G0555 Series machines?
Aside from paint color and labeling, the G0555 and G0555P are identical machines; they are equipped with a 1 HP motor, aluminum wheels, manually-adjustable guide post, extruded aluminum fence, and open-style stand. The G0555X was built with the same basic design as the G0555/G0555P, but it is equipped with a 1.5 HP motor, cast-iron wheels, manually-adjustable guide post, a cabinet-style stand, a worklight, and a cast-iron fence with optional resaw fence attachment. The G0555LX and G0555LANV, aside from appearances, are also identical machines; however, they are built from a different design than the G0555/G0555P, so very few parts are interchangeable. The G0555LX and G0555LANV are equipped with a 1 HP motor, cast-iron wheels, extruded aluminum fence, rack-and-pinion adjustable guide post, open-style stand, and a padlock for the ON/OFF switch.
What is needed for converting this machine to 220V?
First, review the circuit requirements in the Owner's Manual to make sure you have the appropriate 220V power supply circuit and wall receptacle installed in your shop. Converting the machine to 220V involves (1) disconnecting saw from power supply, (2) cutting off existing power cord plug, (3) reconfiguring wire connections inside the motor junction box, and (4) installing the appropriate 220V plug (see Owner's Manual for full details). CAUTION: To reduce the risk of electrocution or fire, only an electrician or qualified service personnel should perform this procedure.
What is CSA? What does "CSA Certified" mean?
CSA (Canadian Standards Association) is an organization based out of Canada that is very similar to UL (Underwriters Laboratory) in the USA. Like UL, CSA provides two primary services. First, they develop Canada's minimum standards for the design, construction, and safety of a wide variety of products that are commercially sold in that country. These standards are completely voluntary and not a requirement for all products sold in Canada. Second, CSA acts as an NRTL (Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory), which is essentially a 3rd party testing agency that has their own engineers/inspectors test and evaluate a product to ensure that it meets the requirements established in the applicable standards document for the primary market where the products are sold. In Grizzly's case, this is the USA and Canada, so many Grizzly machines are certified (usually by CSA, UL, or ETL) to meet both CSA (Canada) and UL (USA) standards. So, although CSA produces their own standards, any NRTL (such as UL, ETL, TUV, etc.) can also certify the same products to the CSA standards. The reason why one NRTL is used over another typically just boils down to a business decision by the company paying the NRTL to test/evaluate their products. An important part of any NRTL certification, besides the initial testing/evaluation, is the ongoing compliance requirements necessary to maintain the certification. This involves both regular and random product checks by the NRTL's inspectors or engineers at the factory or on the consumer level.
If I put a riser block on my bandsaw, do I lose 6" of adjustment with the blade?
No, the riser block kits include a replacement guide post and blade guard, which allows the guide blocks to be adjusted within the full range of the additional 6" cutting height gained by its installation.
General Questions and Answers:
How do I know what type of blade I should buy?
Blade choice is typically determined by the type and purpose of cut, the hardness and thickness of wood, and the desired trade-offs between cutting speed vs. cutting quality. In general, a wider blade is preferred for cutting straight lines because the blade tends to wander less, and a narrower blade is preferred for cutting curves because it has a much tighter minimum cutting radius. The two main types of blade teeth are "Hook" and "Raker". Hook teeth tend to cut faster and leave rougher results, while Raker teeth tend to cut slower and leave smoother results. There are additional types of teeth, such as Skip, Positive Claw, or AS-S, that are essentially modified versions of the Hook or Raker tooth shapes, but with slight changes to the cutting angle, gullet-to-tooth ratio, tooth set, etc. to provide unique advantages for special types of cuts.
Can a metal bandsaw cut wood or vice versa?
The proper cutting speed for the majority of ferrous metals is under 300 FPM. The proper cutting speed for the majority of wood cuts is over 3000 FPM. Trying to cut metals on a wood bandsaw--at speeds 10 times faster than they should be--is dangerous and will likely result in a broken blade, damage to the bandsaw, and a really horrible cut. Cutting wood on a metal bandsaw is possible, but it would be tedious and slow, and likely would not produce a decent quality of cut. In addition, bandsaw blades for cutting wood are designed much differently than bandsaw blades for cutting metal. With that said, there are some soft, non-ferrous metals (such as aluminum) that can be cut at around 1500 FPM (if using the correct blade type). Although some of our wood bandsaws operate at approximately this same speed, the other components of these saws weren't designed to handle the metal chips and swarf that would be produced by the cut, which would likely result in minor damage to the machine and void the warranty. The bottom line is this: Always buy the right machine for the job!
What are the differences between ball bearing, block, and disc (a.k.a. "Euro style") guide blocks?
The main differences between blade guide types can be boiled down to four factors: (1) amount/quality of support, (2) amount of blade friction created from that support, (3) ease of set-up and adjustment, and (4) durability and maintenance frequency. Ball-bearing guides offer the best all-around balance of these four factors. Although they don't provide as much contact area for support as block or disc guides, they do maintain constant contact with the blade without greatly increasing friction. They are also the easiest to set up and tend to be the most durable. Disc guides provide the highest amount of contact area for support, but as with guide blocks, they must be positioned 0.004" away from the blade, which requires some type of gauge to be used for proper set up. Whereas some disc guides are fixed, similar to block guides, our Euro-Style disc guides spin with blade contact, which greatly reduces friction and the need for regular resurfacing. Block guides offer excellent support, but unless they're made from specialized materials to reduce wear or friction, they tend to fall behind the other guide types in all other categories.
What type of blade do I need for resawing?
Generally speaking, you'll want to use a wide blade (1/2" or larger) with "Hook" style teeth (or "Positive Claw" on Timberwolf blades) and a low number of teeth per inch (TPI). A wide blade helps ensure cuts are straight and the Hook style teeth have large gullets for removing material as the blade passes through the workpiece.
My bandsaw blade came with a tag on it that said "Recommended for cutting wood or soft non-ferrous metal." Does this mean I can cut metal with my wood bandsaw?
Just because the blade is recommended for both wood and soft, non-ferrous metal (e.g. aluminum, copper, etc.), it doesn't mean your wood bandsaw is suitable for cutting both types of material. It is important to keep in mind that the blade you bought may also be used on other types of bandsaws, such as our G0640X or G0621X, which are specially designed to cut both wood and metal.
Can I still use my bandsaw without connecting it to a dust collector?
Yes, this is possible, but we don't recommend it. Without using a dust collector, the dust will quickly pile up in and around your machine, resulting in additional cleaning time later. Besides making a mess, fine dust can be harmful to your respiratory system. It is a better choice to connect your bandsaw to a properly designed dust collection system that at least pulls the recommended minimum CFM from each dust port on the machine.
What is the purpose of the pin that fits in the blade slot opening at the end of the table?
All bandsaw tables are inherently weaker on the outside half of the table. This is due to the slotted opening that allows the blade to pass through the table during blade changes. The table pin helps reinforce the two sides of the table around this slot, so they remain aligned with each other and keep the table flat. For this reason, it is extremely important to always keep the table pin firmly installed, unless you're changing blades.