Grizzly G0513ANV - 17" 2 HP Bandsaw, Anniversary Edition
click to zoom
In celebration of our 30th Anniversary, we have taken two of our most popular saws and created a special edition color scheme that is sure to be the eye candy in workshops and small businesses nationwide. The G0513ANV is the exact same machine as our G0513 except for our anniversary special edition colors. Grab one quick, these are sure to sell out fast!
For those that need a respectable cutting capacity at a respectable price, Grizzly is proud to offer this full-featured 17" Heavy-duty Bandsaw. The 2 HP motor powers through wood up to a maximum 12" cutting capacity, and the 16-1/4" throat is plenty for most applications. Features like the deluxe fence, heavy-duty miter gauge, dual 4" dust ports, micro-adjusting geared table, and European-style blade guides are usually found on machines costing much more. And, the ISO 9001 factory designation assures high quality standards.
- Motor: 2 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase, TEFC capacitor start induction, 1725 RPM, 60 Hz, prewired 220V
- Amps: 20A at 110V, 10A at 220V
- Power transfer: Belt drive
- Precision-ground cast-iron table
- Table size: 17" x 17" x 1-1/2"
- Table tilt: 10 deg. left, 45 deg. right
- Floor to table height: 37-1/2"
- Cutting capacity/throat: 16-1/4" left of blade
- Maximum cutting height: 12-1/8"
- Blade size: 131-1/2" long
- Blade width range: 1/8" - 1" wide
- 2 blade speeds: 1700 and 3500 FPM
- Wheels: Computer-balanced cast-aluminum with polyurethane tires
- Wheel covers: Pre-formed steel
- Blade guides: Euro-style roller disc with full enclosure protection
- Bearings: Sealed and permanently lubricated
- Overall size: 73" H x 32" W x 32" D
- Footprint: 27" L x 17-3/4" D
- Approximate shipping weight: 342 lbs.
- Deluxe extruded-aluminum fence
- Includes miter gauge
- Two 4" dust ports
- Quick-change blade release/tensioner
- Blade tension indicator
- Micro-adjusting geared table
- Blade height scale measurement
- Blade tracking window
- Includes 1/2" 6-TPI hook blade
3 Customer Reviews (5 out of 5 stars): Sign in to write a review
After having this saw for a couple of months I feel I am ready to review it. This saw has been an amazing and beautiful addition to my shop. Delivery was prompt, courteous, and set up was pretty easy. I was able to tune the saw up fairly easily and was happy to see that the wheels where aligned perfectly straight from the factory! The cast iron top was nice and flat and had some good weight to it. After a couple of projects and playing with the tension of the included blade i was finally able to get the saw pushing through even dense woods without must effort. If I were to change one thing about this saw it would be to upgrade to some heavier wheels so they are less likely to bog down under while trying to cut some harder woods (again this may have come from me having the blade too tight), and the factory fence tends to twist a bit when clamped. Like any wood worker I have a couple upgrades on my list to make it fit my shop a little better including a mobile base as well as some cool blocks or bearing guides, but I would recommend this saw to anyone who is wanting a full-cut capacity saw for a good price.
I just got this a week ago and i love it. I don't have 220 (yet) so i had to convert it. The cost for plug and out let is about 40 bucks ( for the 100 set up )
Changing the blade is not as easy as it shows in the video, but with a little practice i got it. Its not the machine's fault - it's a bandsaw , com'on bandsaw blades are hard to change. I love it
I bought this bandsaw for my aircraft hangar projects. Building and restoring antique airplanes with desired tolerances down to 1/32 to 1/16 inch requires a decent unit. Cutting spruce wing spars and birch and mahogany plywood gussets and doublers has provided a good trial and check-out for this machine. I have been nothing but happy so far using this saw for ripping, cross cutting, re-sawing, and contour cuts in light plywood down to 1/16 inch thickness. The blade tracking is excellent. Perhaps the only annoyance has been with the rip fence which is lightweight and somewhat difficult to align; with some care and patience however it is working out OK. Just ordered two more saw blades and anxious to get back to sawing!
Common Questions and Answers about the G0513ANV:
What is the difference between the G0513, G0513ANV, and G0513P?
All three of these models are identical machines, except for appearances.
What do I need to convert this machine to 110V?
First, review the circuit requirements in the Owner's Manual to make sure you have the appropriate 30A, 110V power supply circuit and wall receptacle installed in your shop. Converting the machine to 110V requires: (1) disconnecting saw from power supply, (2) removing existing power cord with 220V plug, (3) reconfiguring wire connections inside the motor junction box, and (4) replacing power cord with one that has the appropriate 110V plug and meets the required specifications detailed in the owner's manual. CAUTION: To reduce the risk of electrocution or fire, only an electrician or qualified service personnel should perform this procedure.
General Questions and Answers:
What is the benefit of having cast-iron trunnions over aluminum trunnions?
Cast-iron trunnions give the table a more solid, robust support system, allowing it to better resist any flexing or twisting that may occur from really heavy workpieces being set on the table, especially on the outside ends of the table around the blade slot.
What are the differences between ball bearing, block, and disc (a.k.a. "Euro style") guide blocks?
The main differences between blade guide types can be boiled down to four factors: (1) amount/quality of support, (2) amount of blade friction created from that support, (3) ease of set-up and adjustment, and (4) durability and maintenance frequency. Ball-bearing guides offer the best all-around balance of these four factors. Although they don't provide as much contact area for support as block or disc guides, they do maintain constant contact with the blade without greatly increasing friction. They are also the easiest to set up and tend to be the most durable. Disc guides provide the highest amount of contact area for support, but as with guide blocks, they must be positioned 0.004" away from the blade, which requires some type of gauge to be used for proper set up. Whereas some disc guides are fixed, similar to block guides, our Euro-Style disc guides spin with blade contact, which greatly reduces friction and the need for regular resurfacing. Block guides offer excellent support, but unless they're made from specialized materials to reduce wear or friction, they tend to fall behind the other guide types in all other categories.
Can a metal bandsaw cut wood or vice versa?
The proper cutting speed for the majority of ferrous metals is under 300 FPM. The proper cutting speed for the majority of wood cuts is over 3000 FPM. Trying to cut metals on a wood bandsaw--at speeds 10 times faster than they should be--is dangerous and will likely result in a broken blade, damage to the bandsaw, and a really horrible cut. Cutting wood on a metal bandsaw is possible, but it would be tedious and slow, and likely would not produce a decent quality of cut. In addition, bandsaw blades for cutting wood are designed much differently than bandsaw blades for cutting metal. With that said, there are some soft, non-ferrous metals (such as aluminum) that can be cut at around 1500 FPM (if using the correct blade type). Although some of our wood bandsaws operate at approximately this same speed, the other components of these saws weren't designed to handle the metal chips and swarf that would be produced by the cut, which would likely result in minor damage to the machine and void the warranty. The bottom line is this: Always buy the right machine for the job!
Can I still use my bandsaw without connecting it to a dust collector?
Yes, this is possible, but we don't recommend it. Without using a dust collector, the dust will quickly pile up in and around your machine, resulting in additional cleaning time later. Besides making a mess, fine dust can be harmful to your respiratory system. It is a better choice to connect your bandsaw to a properly designed dust collection system that at least pulls the recommended minimum CFM from each dust port on the machine.
What type of blade do I need for resawing?
Generally speaking, you'll want to use a wide blade (1/2" or larger) with "Hook" style teeth (or "Positive Claw" on Timberwolf blades) and a low number of teeth per inch (TPI). A wide blade helps ensure cuts are straight and the Hook style teeth have large gullets for removing material as the blade passes through the workpiece.
Which saw is best for resawing?
The key specs for resawing are the maximum cutting height and a larger motor size. Due to the amount of material being cut at one time, resawing puts a lot more strain on the motor than other types of cuts, so generally speaking, the more power the better. If you're using the proper blade type (a hook-type blade with few TPI) and a modest feed speed, you can get by making the occasional rip cut using a 1 HP-2 HP motor. Otherwise, if you plan on making regular resawing cuts, you'll get the best results with a 3 HP or larger motor.
My bandsaw blade came with a tag on it that said "Recommended for cutting wood or soft non-ferrous metal." Does this mean I can cut metal with my wood bandsaw?
Just because the blade is recommended for both wood and soft, non-ferrous metal (e.g. aluminum, copper, etc.), it doesn't mean your wood bandsaw is suitable for cutting both types of material. It is important to keep in mind that the blade you bought may also be used on other types of bandsaws, such as our G0640X or G0621X, which are specially designed to cut both wood and metal.
How do I know what type of blade I should buy?
Blade choice is typically determined by the type and purpose of cut, the hardness and thickness of wood, and the desired trade-offs between cutting speed vs. cutting quality. In general, a wider blade is preferred for cutting straight lines because the blade tends to wander less, and a narrower blade is preferred for cutting curves because it has a much tighter minimum cutting radius. The two main types of blade teeth are "Hook" and "Raker". Hook teeth tend to cut faster and leave rougher results, while Raker teeth tend to cut slower and leave smoother results. There are additional types of teeth, such as Skip, Positive Claw, or AS-S, that are essentially modified versions of the Hook or Raker tooth shapes, but with slight changes to the cutting angle, gullet-to-tooth ratio, tooth set, etc. to provide unique advantages for special types of cuts.
What is the purpose of the pin that fits in the blade slot opening at the end of the table?
All bandsaw tables are inherently weaker on the outside half of the table. This is due to the slotted opening that allows the blade to pass through the table during blade changes. The table pin helps reinforce the two sides of the table around this slot, so they remain aligned with each other and keep the table flat. For this reason, it is extremely important to always keep the table pin firmly installed, unless you're changing blades.
In your catalog, I noticed table inserts being sold separately. Does this mean a table insert won't be included with a new saw?
No, table inserts are included with all of our new bandsaws. However, over the years we've noticed that a lot of customers like to purchase multiple table inserts, so we just include them on each bandsaw page to make it easier for customers to find and order the correct inserts for their saws.