Grizzly G0513ANV - 17" 2 HP Bandsaw, Anniversary Edition
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In celebration of our 30th Anniversary, we have taken two of our most popular saws and created a special edition color scheme that is sure to be the eye candy in workshops and small businesses nationwide. The G0513ANV is the exact same machine as our G0513 except for our anniversary special edition colors. Grab one quick, these are sure to sell out fast!
For those that need a respectable cutting capacity at a respectable price, Grizzly is proud to offer this full-featured 17" Heavy-duty Bandsaw. The 2 HP motor powers through wood up to a maximum 12" cutting capacity, and the 16-1/4" throat is plenty for most applications. Features like the deluxe fence, heavy-duty miter gauge, dual 4" dust ports, micro-adjusting geared table, and European-style blade guides are usually found on machines costing much more. And, the ISO 9001 factory designation assures high quality standards.
- Motor: 2 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase, TEFC capacitor start induction, 1725 RPM, 60 Hz, prewired 220V
- Amps: 20A at 110V, 10A at 220V
- Power transfer: Belt drive
- Precision-ground cast-iron table
- Table size: 17" x 17" x 1-1/2"
- Table tilt: 10 deg. left, 45 deg. right
- Floor to table height: 37-1/2"
- Cutting capacity/throat: 16-1/4" left of blade
- Maximum cutting height: 12-1/8"
- Blade size: 131-1/2" long
- Blade width range: 1/8" - 1" wide
- 2 blade speeds: 1700 and 3500 FPM
- Wheels: Computer-balanced cast-aluminum with polyurethane tires
- Wheel covers: Pre-formed steel
- Blade guides: Euro-style roller disc with full enclosure protection
- Bearings: Sealed and permanently lubricated
- Overall size: 73" H x 32" W x 32" D
- Footprint: 27" L x 17-3/4" D
- Approximate shipping weight: 342 lbs.
- Deluxe extruded-aluminum fence
- Includes miter gauge
- Two 4" dust ports
- Quick-change blade release/tensioner
- Blade tension indicator
- Micro-adjusting geared table
- Blade height scale measurement
- Blade tracking window
- Includes 1/2" 6-TPI hook blade
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19 Customer Reviews (4.8 out of 5 stars): Sign in to write a review
After having this saw for a couple of months I feel I am ready to review it. This saw has been an amazing and beautiful addition to my shop. Delivery was prompt, courteous, and set up was pretty easy. I was able to tune the saw up fairly easily and was happy to see that the wheels where aligned perfectly straight from the factory! The cast iron top was nice and flat and had some good weight to it. After a couple of projects and playing with the tension of the included blade i was finally able to get the saw pushing through even dense woods without must effort. If I were to change one thing about this saw it would be to upgrade to some heavier wheels so they are less likely to bog down under while trying to cut some harder woods (again this may have come from me having the blade too tight), and the factory fence tends to twist a bit when clamped. Like any wood worker I have a couple upgrades on my list to make it fit my shop a little better including a mobile base as well as some cool blocks or bearing guides, but I would recommend this saw to anyone who is wanting a full-cut capacity saw for a good price.
I just got this a week ago and i love it. I don't have 220 (yet) so i had to convert it. The cost for plug and out let is about 40 bucks ( for the 100 set up )
Changing the blade is not as easy as it shows in the video, but with a little practice i got it. Its not the machine's fault - it's a bandsaw , com'on bandsaw blades are hard to change. I love it
I bought this bandsaw for my aircraft hangar projects. Building and restoring antique airplanes with desired tolerances down to 1/32 to 1/16 inch requires a decent unit. Cutting spruce wing spars and birch and mahogany plywood gussets and doublers has provided a good trial and check-out for this machine. I have been nothing but happy so far using this saw for ripping, cross cutting, re-sawing, and contour cuts in light plywood down to 1/16 inch thickness. The blade tracking is excellent. Perhaps the only annoyance has been with the rip fence which is lightweight and somewhat difficult to align; with some care and patience however it is working out OK. Just ordered two more saw blades and anxious to get back to sawing!
I use this saw for game bird, song bird, birds of prey and fish as well as making quality coffee tables which I build complete nature scenes inside of them according to customers interest's and desire's.
I researched comparable machines in both size and price for over a month. In the end it came down to over all functionality, available accessories, craftsmanship, cost and customer service.
I wouldn't change this saw for anything. It was all I had wanted X-10 ! Now, I don't use this saw in a large factory setting but it does get used daily and a lot of it being precision cutting and it performs to perfection. I bought 2- 4" PVC caps and blocked the bottom vacuum port and cut a hole in the upper port the size of my large shop vac. I can cut half the day and at the end of the day I might have a cup of sawdust in the bottom. I unplug the shop vac and vacuum that out and go dump it in my compost pile.
Choose your blades wisely according to your work load and type of cutting (curvy, scroll type, rip sawing etc.) and this saw will be the best investment you will have ever made for your shop. I wouldn't be without it.
Sincerely, Tom L.
Shady Lane Creation's
Great bandsaw !!!!!! - terrible saw blade that came with the bandsaw. It would have been better if they sent nothing rather than the saw that came with it. Brand new it messed up a simple cut on MDF. Geez guys send nothing or send a decent blade, but don't send something that will piss everyone off.
Bought this for my husband for Christmas. He loves it and is doing some projects that he couldn't have done before. This is a great machine.
Lots of power, easy to change speeds, quieter then I thought it would be and sharp looking\r\n
This thing is a beast! It is my first bandsaw and I couldn't be happier. The fence is not the best as far as locking straight but for now I'll just clamp it until I can get a mag fence. It has plenty of power with a 220v motor (which is huge) although you will need to put your own appropriate plug on...I chose a NEMA 6-50 style since I had plugs for my welder already installed in my shop. \r\nI would recommend getting another blnade right off the bat the stock one isn't that great. Good saw and you will be happy with it.
Seems like a well built machine so far, but I am disappointed that the blade sent with it is, in the words of the tech support guy, "basically only meant for setup purposes." Plan on buying a quality blade before you try to cut anything.
I got this two months ago. It's my first real bandsaw. For me it was the best bang for the buck. I wanted something I won't want to upgrade in the future. So far I've mostly played with it but have resawn some 7" boards with no problem thanks to some Timberwolf blades. I found that the dust port on the bottom isn't necessary for me with a direct 4" line going to the top port so I blocked that off. Blade changes are a bit tight on my 3/4" blade but I don't have comparisons. I don't see any negatives to the steel trunion or aluminum wheels so far, both are solid. I'm happy with my purchase. The crate was pretty beat up, I wish the planks were thicker but there was no damage to the saw and reply from customer service was quick.
The bandsaw has preformed very well. Even cutting some very hard aged olive wood. Been a long time since I have purchased a Grizzly product quality is much improved.
I've always wanted a good band saw. I had a cheap one from Craftsman years ago but finally sold it because I could never get the blade to align properly. It kept coming of the wheels half way through the cut and I'd half to stop and remount the blade ---very frustrating!.. No amount of adjusting tension on those cheap lightweight wheels would correct the problem. Now I can cut easily though thick slabs, and the blade continues to track beautifully and accurately...Great Machine!
It has been a long time coming I have enjoyed the heck out of this thing. Decided on the slightly bigger model because I have a few friends with the 14 inch saw and wanted something I never had to upgrade (size wise) love it so far!
I have had both of mine for over a year now and I love them. I purchased the polar bear series of this Bandsaw. I made a video on setting it up. Check it out.
Common Questions and Answers about the G0513ANV:
What is the difference between the G0513, G0513ANV, and G0513P?
All three of these models are identical machines, except for appearances.
What do I need to convert this machine to 110V?
First, review the circuit requirements in the Owner's Manual to make sure you have the appropriate 30A, 110V power supply circuit and wall receptacle installed in your shop. Converting the machine to 110V requires: (1) disconnecting saw from power supply, (2) removing existing power cord with 220V plug, (3) reconfiguring wire connections inside the motor junction box, and (4) replacing power cord with one that has the appropriate 110V plug and meets the required specifications detailed in the owner's manual. CAUTION: To reduce the risk of electrocution or fire, only an electrician or qualified service personnel should perform this procedure.
General Questions and Answers:
What is the benefit of having cast-iron trunnions over aluminum trunnions?
Cast-iron trunnions give the table a more solid, robust support system, allowing it to better resist any flexing or twisting that may occur from really heavy workpieces being set on the table, especially on the outside ends of the table around the blade slot.
What are the differences between ball bearing, block, and disc (a.k.a. "Euro style") guide blocks?
The main differences between blade guide types can be boiled down to four factors: (1) amount/quality of support, (2) amount of blade friction created from that support, (3) ease of set-up and adjustment, and (4) durability and maintenance frequency. Ball-bearing guides offer the best all-around balance of these four factors. Although they don't provide as much contact area for support as block or disc guides, they do maintain constant contact with the blade without greatly increasing friction. They are also the easiest to set up and tend to be the most durable. Disc guides provide the highest amount of contact area for support, but as with guide blocks, they must be positioned 0.004" away from the blade, which requires some type of gauge to be used for proper set up. Whereas some disc guides are fixed, similar to block guides, our Euro-Style disc guides spin with blade contact, which greatly reduces friction and the need for regular resurfacing. Block guides offer excellent support, but unless they're made from specialized materials to reduce wear or friction, they tend to fall behind the other guide types in all other categories.
Can a metal bandsaw cut wood or vice versa?
The proper cutting speed for the majority of ferrous metals is under 300 FPM. The proper cutting speed for the majority of wood cuts is over 3000 FPM. Trying to cut metals on a wood bandsaw--at speeds 10 times faster than they should be--is dangerous and will likely result in a broken blade, damage to the bandsaw, and a really horrible cut. Cutting wood on a metal bandsaw is possible, but it would be tedious and slow, and likely would not produce a decent quality of cut. In addition, bandsaw blades for cutting wood are designed much differently than bandsaw blades for cutting metal. With that said, there are some soft, non-ferrous metals (such as aluminum) that can be cut at around 1500 FPM (if using the correct blade type). Although some of our wood bandsaws operate at approximately this same speed, the other components of these saws weren't designed to handle the metal chips and swarf that would be produced by the cut, which would likely result in minor damage to the machine and void the warranty. The bottom line is this: Always buy the right machine for the job!
Can I still use my bandsaw without connecting it to a dust collector?
Yes, this is possible, but we don't recommend it. Without using a dust collector, the dust will quickly pile up in and around your machine, resulting in additional cleaning time later. Besides making a mess, fine dust can be harmful to your respiratory system. It is a better choice to connect your bandsaw to a properly designed dust collection system that at least pulls the recommended minimum CFM from each dust port on the machine.
What type of blade do I need for resawing?
Generally speaking, you'll want to use a wide blade (1/2" or larger) with "Hook" style teeth (or "Positive Claw" on Timberwolf blades) and a low number of teeth per inch (TPI). A wide blade helps ensure cuts are straight and the Hook style teeth have large gullets for removing material as the blade passes through the workpiece.
Which saw is best for resawing?
The key specs for resawing are the maximum cutting height and a larger motor size. Due to the amount of material being cut at one time, resawing puts a lot more strain on the motor than other types of cuts, so generally speaking, the more power the better. If you're using the proper blade type (a hook-type blade with few TPI) and a modest feed speed, you can get by making the occasional rip cut using a 1 HP-2 HP motor. Otherwise, if you plan on making regular resawing cuts, you'll get the best results with a 3 HP or larger motor.
My bandsaw blade came with a tag on it that said "Recommended for cutting wood or soft non-ferrous metal." Does this mean I can cut metal with my wood bandsaw?
Just because the blade is recommended for both wood and soft, non-ferrous metal (e.g. aluminum, copper, etc.), it doesn't mean your wood bandsaw is suitable for cutting both types of material. It is important to keep in mind that the blade you bought may also be used on other types of bandsaws, such as our G0640X or G0621X, which are specially designed to cut both wood and metal.
How do I know what type of blade I should buy?
Blade choice is typically determined by the type and purpose of cut, the hardness and thickness of wood, and the desired trade-offs between cutting speed vs. cutting quality. In general, a wider blade is preferred for cutting straight lines because the blade tends to wander less, and a narrower blade is preferred for cutting curves because it has a much tighter minimum cutting radius. The two main types of blade teeth are "Hook" and "Raker". Hook teeth tend to cut faster and leave rougher results, while Raker teeth tend to cut slower and leave smoother results. There are additional types of teeth, such as Skip, Positive Claw, or AS-S, that are essentially modified versions of the Hook or Raker tooth shapes, but with slight changes to the cutting angle, gullet-to-tooth ratio, tooth set, etc. to provide unique advantages for special types of cuts.
What is the purpose of the pin that fits in the blade slot opening at the end of the table?
All bandsaw tables are inherently weaker on the outside half of the table. This is due to the slotted opening that allows the blade to pass through the table during blade changes. The table pin helps reinforce the two sides of the table around this slot, so they remain aligned with each other and keep the table flat. For this reason, it is extremely important to always keep the table pin firmly installed, unless you're changing blades.
In your catalog, I noticed table inserts being sold separately. Does this mean a table insert won't be included with a new saw?
No, table inserts are included with all of our new bandsaws. However, over the years we've noticed that a lot of customers like to purchase multiple table inserts, so we just include them on each bandsaw page to make it easier for customers to find and order the correct inserts for their saws.