Grizzly G0513X2BF - 17" 2 HP Extreme-Series® Bandsaw with Cast-Iron Trunnion & Foot Brake Micro-Switch
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- Motor: 2 HP, 220V, single-phase, TEFC capacitor start induction, 60 Hz, 1725 RPM, 10 Amps, prewired to 220V
- Power transfer: Belt drive
- Precision-ground cast-iron table
- Table size: 23-5/8" x 17-1/4" x 1-1/2" thick
- Table tilt: 5° left, 45° right
- Floor to table height: 37-1/2"
- Cutting capacity/throat: 16-1/4" left of blade
- Maximum cutting height: 12"
- Blade size: 131-1/2" long
- Blade sizes available: 1/8" – 1" wide
- 2 blade speeds: 1700 and 3500 FPM
- Wheels: computer-balanced cast-iron with polyurethane tires
- Wheel covers: pre-formed steel
- Blade guides: ball bearing with full enclosure protection
- Bearings: sealed and permanently lubricated
- Overall size: 73" H x 32" W x 32" D
- Footprint: 27" L x 17-3/4" W x 2-1/2" H
- Approximate shipping weight: 460 lbs.
- Deluxe cast-iron fence with extruded aluminum re-saw fence
- Includes miter gauge
- Two 4" dust ports
- Quick-change blade release/ tensioner
- Blade tension indicator
- Micro-adjusting geared table
- Blade height scale measurement
- Blade tracking window
- Includes 1/2" 6-TPI hook blade
- Motor brake stops blade in under 3 seconds when power is turned off
- Foot brake activates manual and motor brakes
- Cast-iron table trunnions for greater stability
- Rack and pinion upper blade guide height adjustment
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8 Customer Reviews (4.9 out of 5 stars): Sign in to write a review
Just received it and very impressed with the quality. Runs smooth and extremely quiet. Definitely enjoy the foot brake micro-switch and the ball-bearing rollers.
I like this beast!! Not my first Grizzly will not be my last..
Finally glad I got this bandsaw, should've bought it a long time ago. It is going to get a lot of use!
I've had my saw for about 2 years now, and I'm so happy with it. It does everything I ask of it. One of my favorite things about it is the excellent dust collection. I have the top port hooked up to a 2hp cyclone collector and nothing gets past the top port. I don't even have to use the bottom port because nothing gets down in there. It's the best dust collection design I've ever seen in a bandsaw. Another favorite feature is the brake, which stops the blade in just over a second. It's not only safer, but allows me to work quicker without having to wait for the blade to coast to a stop.
Not only would recommend this saw, I have several times already. I show it with pride to anyone who asks to see it.
I bought this as my first full sized 17" bandsaw, after many positive reviews on Lumberjocks.com.
I have not been dissapointed. Save for one change of tires after about 30 months, this has been just a horse.
Full featured, easy to clean, blade change easy, generous table, it is all there.
And to be honest, once you experience the electric brake - you will wonder why you wasted all that time waiting for blades to stop. What an outstanding feature.
Now, my other bandsaw, being a smaller 14", is just wearing out and breaking down a lot. I had planned to buy a high end 14" with a lot of features including a riser. Then it hit me, why not just buy another one of these, since it has performed so well. I do so much bandsaw work in my shop that I have kept two saws in the shop for years, one with a wider blade for things like resawing, and one with a smaller blade for true bandsaw work. I think another G0513, at least with foot brake, would be a great replacement for my current 14", and I would be able to have only one blade length for both.
I've had this saw for a year or two by now. It is my go to saw for breaking down logs for my lathe. I had some difficulties before I got the right blade: the Lenox Tri-Master 1/2" carbide tip blade. The two are made for one another. Yesterday I breezed through a 12 inch diameter juniper log, then cut a 6" diameter cylinder out of it for a bowl blank. All in about 5 minutes. The only issue I have with this saw is that there should be kill switch on the blade tightener. The saw should not start if you haven't tightened the blade. And it's easy to forget because the lever is out of sight behind the saw. That's the only reason I don't give it 5 stars. Strong, handsome design, a great machine.
Common Questions and Answers about the G0513X2BF:
What is different about the braking system on this model compared to the others?
The G0513X2B is equipped with two different braking systems. One is housed inside the motor and uses a magnetically controlled brake shoe to quickly stop motor rotation. This brake is electrically activated when the stop button is pushed. The other braking system is purely mechanical and uses the force applied to the foot pedal to slow and stop wheel rotation.
What is the advantage of having double ball-bearing blade guides over singles?
Double ball-bearing guides don't provide any advantages for 1/2" or smaller blades, but they do provide a much greater level of support for 3/4" and wider blades. This is important if you're planning on doing a lot of resawing or other straight cutting where a high degree of accuracy is needed.
What is the benefit of having cast-iron trunnions over aluminum trunnions?
Cast-iron trunnions give the table a more solid, robust support system, allowing it to better resist any flexing or twisting that may occur from really heavy workpieces being set on the table, especially on the outside ends of the table around the blade slot.
Can this saw be rewired for 110V?
No. This saw will only operate on a 220V power supply.
What is the benefit of having a machine equipped with a magnetic switch?
A magnetic switch offers a couple benefits beyond a typical switch. First, a magnetic switch is equipped with an overload relay that protects the motor from thermal breakdown that occurs if the motor is pushed beyond its limits. Second, in the event of a power outage, tripped circuit breaker, or blown electrical panel fuse, a magnetic switch will not automatically restart the motor when the power supply is restored.
General Questions and Answers:
What are the pros and cons of Cast Aluminum versus Cast Iron Wheels?
The heavier mass and weight of cast-iron wheels reduces vibrations and creates a flywheel-effect, which helps the blade maintain a consistent speed during heavy cuts and when resawing. The drawbacks to this added weight and mass are that it requires more energy from the motor to get the wheels and blade up to speed; and unless the saw is equipped with a brake, it also takes longer for the wheels to come to a stop after the saw is turned off. Aluminum wheels, on the other hand, are much lighter and require less time and energy to get up to speed and bring to a stop, which is why they are ideal for many hobby saws and those that will mainly be used for general-purpose rip cuts and crosscuts, such as with 4/4 (1") or thinner stock.
What are the differences between ball bearing, block, and disc (a.k.a. "Euro style") guide blocks?
The main differences between blade guide types can be boiled down to four factors: (1) amount/quality of support, (2) amount of blade friction created from that support, (3) ease of set-up and adjustment, and (4) durability and maintenance frequency. Ball-bearing guides offer the best all-around balance of these four factors. Although they don't provide as much contact area for support as block or disc guides, they do maintain constant contact with the blade without greatly increasing friction. They are also the easiest to set up and tend to be the most durable. Disc guides provide the highest amount of contact area for support, but as with guide blocks, they must be positioned 0.004" away from the blade, which requires some type of gauge to be used for proper set up. Whereas some disc guides are fixed, similar to block guides, our Euro-Style disc guides spin with blade contact, which greatly reduces friction and the need for regular resurfacing. Block guides offer excellent support, but unless they're made from specialized materials to reduce wear or friction, they tend to fall behind the other guide types in all other categories.
Can a metal bandsaw cut wood or vice versa?
The proper cutting speed for the majority of ferrous metals is under 300 FPM. The proper cutting speed for the majority of wood cuts is over 3000 FPM. Trying to cut metals on a wood bandsaw--at speeds 10 times faster than they should be--is dangerous and will likely result in a broken blade, damage to the bandsaw, and a really horrible cut. Cutting wood on a metal bandsaw is possible, but it would be tedious and slow, and likely would not produce a decent quality of cut. In addition, bandsaw blades for cutting wood are designed much differently than bandsaw blades for cutting metal. With that said, there are some soft, non-ferrous metals (such as aluminum) that can be cut at around 1500 FPM (if using the correct blade type). Although some of our wood bandsaws operate at approximately this same speed, the other components of these saws weren't designed to handle the metal chips and swarf that would be produced by the cut, which would likely result in minor damage to the machine and void the warranty. The bottom line is this: Always buy the right machine for the job!
Can I still use my bandsaw without connecting it to a dust collector?
Yes, this is possible, but we don't recommend it. Without using a dust collector, the dust will quickly pile up in and around your machine, resulting in additional cleaning time later. Besides making a mess, fine dust can be harmful to your respiratory system. It is a better choice to connect your bandsaw to a properly designed dust collection system that at least pulls the recommended minimum CFM from each dust port on the machine.
Which saw is best for resawing?
The key specs for resawing are the maximum cutting height and a larger motor size. Due to the amount of material being cut at one time, resawing puts a lot more strain on the motor than other types of cuts, so generally speaking, the more power the better. If you're using the proper blade type (a hook-type blade with few TPI) and a modest feed speed, you can get by making the occasional rip cut using a 1 HP-2 HP motor. Otherwise, if you plan on making regular resawing cuts, you'll get the best results with a 3 HP or larger motor.
What type of blade do I need for resawing?
Generally speaking, you'll want to use a wide blade (1/2" or larger) with "Hook" style teeth (or "Positive Claw" on Timberwolf blades) and a low number of teeth per inch (TPI). A wide blade helps ensure cuts are straight and the Hook style teeth have large gullets for removing material as the blade passes through the workpiece.
My bandsaw blade came with a tag on it that said "Recommended for cutting wood or soft non-ferrous metal." Does this mean I can cut metal with my wood bandsaw?
Just because the blade is recommended for both wood and soft, non-ferrous metal (e.g. aluminum, copper, etc.), it doesn't mean your wood bandsaw is suitable for cutting both types of material. It is important to keep in mind that the blade you bought may also be used on other types of bandsaws, such as our G0640X or G0621X, which are specially designed to cut both wood and metal.
How do I know what type of blade I should buy?
Blade choice is typically determined by the type and purpose of cut, the hardness and thickness of wood, and the desired trade-offs between cutting speed vs. cutting quality. In general, a wider blade is preferred for cutting straight lines because the blade tends to wander less, and a narrower blade is preferred for cutting curves because it has a much tighter minimum cutting radius. The two main types of blade teeth are "Hook" and "Raker". Hook teeth tend to cut faster and leave rougher results, while Raker teeth tend to cut slower and leave smoother results. There are additional types of teeth, such as Skip, Positive Claw, or AS-S, that are essentially modified versions of the Hook or Raker tooth shapes, but with slight changes to the cutting angle, gullet-to-tooth ratio, tooth set, etc. to provide unique advantages for special types of cuts.
What is the purpose of the pin that fits in the blade slot opening at the end of the table?
All bandsaw tables are inherently weaker on the outside half of the table. This is due to the slotted opening that allows the blade to pass through the table during blade changes. The table pin helps reinforce the two sides of the table around this slot, so they remain aligned with each other and keep the table flat. For this reason, it is extremely important to always keep the table pin firmly installed, unless you're changing blades.