Grizzly G0513 - 17" Bandsaw - 2 HP
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- Motor: 2 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase, TEFC capacitor start induction, 1725 RPM, 60 Hz, prewired 220V
- Amps: 20A at 110V, 10A at 220V
- Precision-ground cast-iron table
- Table size: 17" x 17" x 1-1/2" thick
- Table tilt: 10° left, 45° right
- Floor to table height: 37-1/2"
- Cutting capacity/throat: 16-1/4" left of blade
- Maximum cutting height: 12-1/8"
- Blade size: 131-1/2" long
- Blade width range: 1/8" – 1" wide
- 2 blade speeds: 1700 and 3500 FPM
- Wheels: Computer-balanced cast-aluminum with polyurethane tires
- Wheel covers: Pre-formed steel
- Euro-style roller-disc blade guides with full enclosure protection
- Sealed and permanently lubricated bearings
- Overall size: 73" H x 32" W x 32" D
- Footprint: 27" L x 17-3/4" D x 2-1/2" H
- Approximate shipping weight: 342 lbs.
- Deluxe extruded-aluminum fence
- Includes miter gauge
- Two 4" dust ports
- Quick-change blade release/tensioner
- Blade tension indicator
- Micro-adjusting geared table
- Blade height measurement scale
- Blade tracking window
- Includes 1/2" 6-TPI hook blade
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1 Customer Review (4 out of 5 stars): Sign in to write a review
Just bought the GO513X2B. Today i finally got everything installed. I was impressed with the cast iron table that is really solid and flat. same for the Fence, finally something that works it holds location if locked down. The machine frame seems to be solid as much as i can judge. So far everything works as it should. Cutting the first part i made a blank for a bowl. 9x9x5 was the final block and the saw cut throe the 9" with out any trouble, the 2HP motor does the trick.
Before i decided to buy the Grizzly Band-saw i watched the Videos located on the Grizzly web-page. In that video the dude points out how quiet the saw will be, well mine is a bit louder then shown in that clip. The same Dude shows how to change the blade. The saw blade tensioner release lever is a great thing and speeds up the task. The video showed how to remove a blade and replace back the same thing. If you change to another blade size all bearings must be adjusted. And here is where the trouble starts. the hexagonal posts which hold the bearings sit to tight in that Cast aluminum block. The hex rods do hardly move, only if you bang on it they change location the fit in the holes is to tight. The blade with is adjusted with two ex centers. Looking at other brands i see better solutions. While cutting the first wood block one of the screws holding the ex center came loose.
Bottom line: it is a great saw for the money, however the saw blade guides could be easier simpler to be adjusted. Since i own a machine shop I will redesign the two blade guides, there is lots of room to improve.
together with my saw i bought the Shop-fox mobile Base. Heat to say but just 3 wheels are touching the ground at any given time. The Band-saw wiggles and since the saw is top heavy it is dangerous to move it around. (Band saw is mounted to the mobile base with four screws)
Common Questions and Answers about the G0513:
What is the difference between the G0513, G0513ANV, and G0513P?
All three of these models are identical machines, except for appearances.
What do I need to convert this machine to 110V?
First, review the circuit requirements in the Owner's Manual to make sure you have the appropriate 30A, 110V power supply circuit and wall receptacle installed in your shop. Converting the machine to 110V requires: (1) disconnecting saw from power supply, (2) removing existing power cord with 220V plug, (3) reconfiguring wire connections inside the motor junction box, and (4) replacing power cord with one that has the appropriate 110V plug and meets the required specifications detailed in the owner's manual. CAUTION: To reduce the risk of electrocution or fire, only an electrician or qualified service personnel should perform this procedure.
General Questions and Answers:
What is the benefit of having cast-iron trunnions over aluminum trunnions?
Cast-iron trunnions give the table a more solid, robust support system, allowing it to better resist any flexing or twisting that may occur from really heavy workpieces being set on the table, especially on the outside ends of the table around the blade slot.
What are the differences between ball bearing, block, and disc (a.k.a. "Euro style") guide blocks?
The main differences between blade guide types can be boiled down to four factors: (1) amount/quality of support, (2) amount of blade friction created from that support, (3) ease of set-up and adjustment, and (4) durability and maintenance frequency. Ball-bearing guides offer the best all-around balance of these four factors. Although they don't provide as much contact area for support as block or disc guides, they do maintain constant contact with the blade without greatly increasing friction. They are also the easiest to set up and tend to be the most durable. Disc guides provide the highest amount of contact area for support, but as with guide blocks, they must be positioned 0.004" away from the blade, which requires some type of gauge to be used for proper set up. Whereas some disc guides are fixed, similar to block guides, our Euro-Style disc guides spin with blade contact, which greatly reduces friction and the need for regular resurfacing. Block guides offer excellent support, but unless they're made from specialized materials to reduce wear or friction, they tend to fall behind the other guide types in all other categories.
Can a metal bandsaw cut wood or vice versa?
The proper cutting speed for the majority of ferrous metals is under 300 FPM. The proper cutting speed for the majority of wood cuts is over 3000 FPM. Trying to cut metals on a wood bandsaw--at speeds 10 times faster than they should be--is dangerous and will likely result in a broken blade, damage to the bandsaw, and a really horrible cut. Cutting wood on a metal bandsaw is possible, but it would be tedious and slow, and likely would not produce a decent quality of cut. In addition, bandsaw blades for cutting wood are designed much differently than bandsaw blades for cutting metal. With that said, there are some soft, non-ferrous metals (such as aluminum) that can be cut at around 1500 FPM (if using the correct blade type). Although some of our wood bandsaws operate at approximately this same speed, the other components of these saws weren't designed to handle the metal chips and swarf that would be produced by the cut, which would likely result in minor damage to the machine and void the warranty. The bottom line is this: Always buy the right machine for the job!
Can I still use my bandsaw without connecting it to a dust collector?
Yes, this is possible, but we don't recommend it. Without using a dust collector, the dust will quickly pile up in and around your machine, resulting in additional cleaning time later. Besides making a mess, fine dust can be harmful to your respiratory system. It is a better choice to connect your bandsaw to a properly designed dust collection system that at least pulls the recommended minimum CFM from each dust port on the machine.
What type of blade do I need for resawing?
Generally speaking, you'll want to use a wide blade (1/2" or larger) with "Hook" style teeth (or "Positive Claw" on Timberwolf blades) and a low number of teeth per inch (TPI). A wide blade helps ensure cuts are straight and the Hook style teeth have large gullets for removing material as the blade passes through the workpiece.
Which saw is best for resawing?
The key specs for resawing are the maximum cutting height and a larger motor size. Due to the amount of material being cut at one time, resawing puts a lot more strain on the motor than other types of cuts, so generally speaking, the more power the better. If you're using the proper blade type (a hook-type blade with few TPI) and a modest feed speed, you can get by making the occasional rip cut using a 1 HP-2 HP motor. Otherwise, if you plan on making regular resawing cuts, you'll get the best results with a 3 HP or larger motor.
My bandsaw blade came with a tag on it that said "Recommended for cutting wood or soft non-ferrous metal." Does this mean I can cut metal with my wood bandsaw?
Just because the blade is recommended for both wood and soft, non-ferrous metal (e.g. aluminum, copper, etc.), it doesn't mean your wood bandsaw is suitable for cutting both types of material. It is important to keep in mind that the blade you bought may also be used on other types of bandsaws, such as our G0640X or G0621X, which are specially designed to cut both wood and metal.
How do I know what type of blade I should buy?
Blade choice is typically determined by the type and purpose of cut, the hardness and thickness of wood, and the desired trade-offs between cutting speed vs. cutting quality. In general, a wider blade is preferred for cutting straight lines because the blade tends to wander less, and a narrower blade is preferred for cutting curves because it has a much tighter minimum cutting radius. The two main types of blade teeth are "Hook" and "Raker". Hook teeth tend to cut faster and leave rougher results, while Raker teeth tend to cut slower and leave smoother results. There are additional types of teeth, such as Skip, Positive Claw, or AS-S, that are essentially modified versions of the Hook or Raker tooth shapes, but with slight changes to the cutting angle, gullet-to-tooth ratio, tooth set, etc. to provide unique advantages for special types of cuts.
What is the purpose of the pin that fits in the blade slot opening at the end of the table?
All bandsaw tables are inherently weaker on the outside half of the table. This is due to the slotted opening that allows the blade to pass through the table during blade changes. The table pin helps reinforce the two sides of the table around this slot, so they remain aligned with each other and keep the table flat. For this reason, it is extremely important to always keep the table pin firmly installed, unless you're changing blades.