Grizzly G0514X2B - 19" 3 HP Extreme-Series® Bandsaw with Motor Brake
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CSA certified meeting CSA C22.2 #71.2-10, #105-1953, and UL 987-7th standards!
- Motor: 3 HP, 220V, single-phase, 12A, TEFC, 60 Hz
- RPM: 1725
- Precision ground cast iron table
- Table size: 26-3/4" x 19" x 1-1/2" thick
- Floor to table height: 37-1/2"
- Cutting capacity/throat: 18-1/4"
- Maximum cutting height: 12"
- Blade size: 143" long
- Blade sizes available: 1/8" - 1-1/4"
- 2 Blade speeds: 1700, 3500 FPM
- Wheels: fully balanced cast iron with polyurethane tires
- Wheel covers: pre-formed, hinged steel
- Blade guides: dual ball bearing with full enclosure protection
- Bearings: sealed and permanently lubricated
- Overall size: 76" H x 36" W x 32" D
- Approximate shipping weight: 512 lbs.
- Blade tension indicator
- Micro adjusting geared table tilting mechanism
- Height scale measurement
- Fence with scale and magnifying window
- Deluxe cast iron fence with extruded aluminum re-saw fence
- Miter gauge
- 4" dust port x 2
- Table tilt 5° left, 45° right
- Quick change blade release/tensioning
- Rack and pinion upper guide adjustment
- Rack and pinion table tilt mechanism
- Motor brake
- Cast iron trunnion
- Includes 3/4" blade
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6 Customer Reviews (5 out of 5 stars): Sign in to write a review
Delivery went well, unpacking the saw took awhile. had to completely unpack the saw to find the owners manual, which was disappointing. Saw set up went well once I found the owners manual So far my only complaint is how the fence arm is connected to the table. It is connected in 3 locations, two of which are bolts in slots. I have a small area in my garage to store my woodworking tools so they have to be on mobile platforms. Seems like invariably I grab the fence arm it moves and have to reset it. Otherwise all good
I bought this big bandsaw on the recommendation of a friend. It is a major step up from my 14-inch G0555. It is solid, stable, powerful, relatively quiet, and smooth. There is nothing even close to it on the market for less than twice the price. It arrived very quickly and very well packaged, fully assembled except for the table. I removed the plastic wrap, worked it off the pallet (carefully!), installed the table, and had it up and running in less than an hour. It has really increased the capacity of my small shop to rip and resaw large workpieces. Highly recommended! (Note that it requires a 220V electrical connection.)
I'm very happy with my new Bandsaw. It did not require a lot of assembly. One of the best things I like is the ease at which I can change out blades. The unit runs quiet. depending on the blade, I can do anything from tight turns to cutting logs. I wanted to be able to move the saw around in my shop so I placed the shop fox under the saw. I would recommend this saw to anyone who wants the ability to work from small to large woodworking projects.
Received in good condition. Assembled in a few hours. Manual was good but had a few errors-overall pretty good manual. Seems to run smooth. I have a little vibration using the blade that came with the unit, but I believe that most of the vibration is due to the Shop fox base. Time will tell. First order of business it to get a new blade-the blade that came with it is not very good-at least it came with one so everything can be set up. I am very happy with the machine and have done some deep cuts with very little drift. I would recommend to others. My second choice was the new Laguna 14" and I choose this unit.
Arrived upright and well packaged. No external damage. It's HEAVY, have a few friends ready to help. Purchased it with the shop fox mobile base and honestly I am not a as happy with the marriage between these two units. Would have liked a different base. The base interferes with the door in such a way as to make blade changes tough. The saw is incredible. Very easy to use. Set up is a little tricky at first. The instructions aren't the greatest but I've been spoiled with other machines. Once you get it all together it makes good sense. Checked the angles on the fence and between the blade and base. Found them to be very accurate once the blade was in tension. The guides take a little getting use to but all work very well. Overall I love this machine and at this price it is absolutely worth it!
Common Questions and Answers about the G0514X2B:
How does the motor brake work?
Inside the motor is a magnetic braking system that can quickly stop the motor rotation in as little as 3 seconds. The brake is electrically-activated each time the motor is turned OFF.
What is the advantage of having double ball-bearing blade guides over singles?
Double ball-bearing guides don't provide any advantages for 1/2" or smaller blades, but they do provide a much greater level of support for 3/4" and wider blades. This is important if you're planning on doing a lot of resawing or other straight cutting where a high degree of accuracy is needed.
What are the benefits of having a rack-and-pinion table tilt?
The main benefit is simply ease-of-use and precision adjustability. Without the rack-and-pinion, you would have to muscle the large cast-iron table into a precise position, and then try to hold it in place while you tighten the locks-not an easy task. Another added benefit of this design, however, is the additional stability and support the rack post provides to the back-end of the table.
What is CSA? What does "CSA Certified" mean?
CSA (Canadian Standards Association) is an organization based out of Canada that is very similar to UL (Underwriters Laboratory) in the USA. Like UL, CSA provides two primary services. First, they develop Canada's minimum standards for the design, construction, and safety of a wide variety of products that are commercially sold in that country. These standards are completely voluntary and not a requirement for all products sold in Canada. Second, CSA acts as an NRTL (Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory), which is essentially a 3rd party testing agency that has their own engineers/inspectors test and evaluate a product to ensure that it meets the requirements established in the applicable standards document for the primary market where the products are sold. In Grizzly's case, this is the USA and Canada, so many Grizzly machines are certified (usually by CSA, UL, or ETL) to meet both CSA (Canada) and UL (USA) standards. So, although CSA produces their own standards, any NRTL (such as UL, ETL, TUV, etc.) can also certify the same products to the CSA standards. The reason why one NRTL is used over another typically just boils down to a business decision by the company paying the NRTL to test/evaluate their products. An important part of any NRTL certification, besides the initial testing/evaluation, is the ongoing compliance requirements necessary to maintain the certification. This involves both regular and random product checks by the NRTL's inspectors or engineers at the factory or on the consumer level.
What is the benefit of having a machine equipped with a magnetic switch?
A magnetic switch offers a couple benefits beyond a typical switch. First, a magnetic switch is equipped with an overload relay that protects the motor from thermal breakdown that occurs if the motor is pushed beyond its limits. Second, in the event of a power outage, tripped circuit breaker, or blown electrical panel fuse, a magnetic switch will not automatically restart the motor when the power supply is restored.
General Questions and Answers:
What are the pros and cons of Cast Aluminum versus Cast Iron Wheels?
The heavier mass and weight of cast-iron wheels reduces vibrations and creates a flywheel-effect, which helps the blade maintain a consistent speed during heavy cuts and when resawing. The drawbacks to this added weight and mass are that it requires more energy from the motor to get the wheels and blade up to speed; and unless the saw is equipped with a brake, it also takes longer for the wheels to come to a stop after the saw is turned off. Aluminum wheels, on the other hand, are much lighter and require less time and energy to get up to speed and bring to a stop, which is why they are ideal for many hobby saws and those that will mainly be used for general-purpose rip cuts and crosscuts, such as with 4/4 (1") or thinner stock.
What are the differences between ball bearing, block, and disc (a.k.a. "Euro style") guide blocks?
The main differences between blade guide types can be boiled down to four factors: (1) amount/quality of support, (2) amount of blade friction created from that support, (3) ease of set-up and adjustment, and (4) durability and maintenance frequency. Ball-bearing guides offer the best all-around balance of these four factors. Although they don't provide as much contact area for support as block or disc guides, they do maintain constant contact with the blade without greatly increasing friction. They are also the easiest to set up and tend to be the most durable. Disc guides provide the highest amount of contact area for support, but as with guide blocks, they must be positioned 0.004" away from the blade, which requires some type of gauge to be used for proper set up. Whereas some disc guides are fixed, similar to block guides, our Euro-Style disc guides spin with blade contact, which greatly reduces friction and the need for regular resurfacing. Block guides offer excellent support, but unless they're made from specialized materials to reduce wear or friction, they tend to fall behind the other guide types in all other categories.
Can a metal bandsaw cut wood or vice versa?
The proper cutting speed for the majority of ferrous metals is under 300 FPM. The proper cutting speed for the majority of wood cuts is over 3000 FPM. Trying to cut metals on a wood bandsaw--at speeds 10 times faster than they should be--is dangerous and will likely result in a broken blade, damage to the bandsaw, and a really horrible cut. Cutting wood on a metal bandsaw is possible, but it would be tedious and slow, and likely would not produce a decent quality of cut. In addition, bandsaw blades for cutting wood are designed much differently than bandsaw blades for cutting metal. With that said, there are some soft, non-ferrous metals (such as aluminum) that can be cut at around 1500 FPM (if using the correct blade type). Although some of our wood bandsaws operate at approximately this same speed, the other components of these saws weren't designed to handle the metal chips and swarf that would be produced by the cut, which would likely result in minor damage to the machine and void the warranty. The bottom line is this: Always buy the right machine for the job!
How do I know what type of blade I should buy?
Blade choice is typically determined by the type and purpose of cut, the hardness and thickness of wood, and the desired trade-offs between cutting speed vs. cutting quality. In general, a wider blade is preferred for cutting straight lines because the blade tends to wander less, and a narrower blade is preferred for cutting curves because it has a much tighter minimum cutting radius. The two main types of blade teeth are "Hook" and "Raker". Hook teeth tend to cut faster and leave rougher results, while Raker teeth tend to cut slower and leave smoother results. There are additional types of teeth, such as Skip, Positive Claw, or AS-S, that are essentially modified versions of the Hook or Raker tooth shapes, but with slight changes to the cutting angle, gullet-to-tooth ratio, tooth set, etc. to provide unique advantages for special types of cuts.
What type of blade do I need for resawing?
Generally speaking, you'll want to use a wide blade (1/2" or larger) with "Hook" style teeth (or "Positive Claw" on Timberwolf blades) and a low number of teeth per inch (TPI). A wide blade helps ensure cuts are straight and the Hook style teeth have large gullets for removing material as the blade passes through the workpiece.
Which saw is best for resawing?
The key specs for resawing are the maximum cutting height and a larger motor size. Due to the amount of material being cut at one time, resawing puts a lot more strain on the motor than other types of cuts, so generally speaking, the more power the better. If you're using the proper blade type (a hook-type blade with few TPI) and a modest feed speed, you can get by making the occasional rip cut using a 1 HP-2 HP motor. Otherwise, if you plan on making regular resawing cuts, you'll get the best results with a 3 HP or larger motor.
My bandsaw blade came with a tag on it that said "Recommended for cutting wood or soft non-ferrous metal." Does this mean I can cut metal with my wood bandsaw?
Just because the blade is recommended for both wood and soft, non-ferrous metal (e.g. aluminum, copper, etc.), it doesn't mean your wood bandsaw is suitable for cutting both types of material. It is important to keep in mind that the blade you bought may also be used on other types of bandsaws, such as our G0640X or G0621X, which are specially designed to cut both wood and metal.
Can I still use my bandsaw without connecting it to a dust collector?
Yes, this is possible, but we don't recommend it. Without using a dust collector, the dust will quickly pile up in and around your machine, resulting in additional cleaning time later. Besides making a mess, fine dust can be harmful to your respiratory system. It is a better choice to connect your bandsaw to a properly designed dust collection system that at least pulls the recommended minimum CFM from each dust port on the machine.
What is the purpose of the pin that fits in the blade slot opening at the end of the table?
All bandsaw tables are inherently weaker on the outside half of the table. This is due to the slotted opening that allows the blade to pass through the table during blade changes. The table pin helps reinforce the two sides of the table around this slot, so they remain aligned with each other and keep the table flat. For this reason, it is extremely important to always keep the table pin firmly installed, unless you're changing blades.