Grizzly G0514X - 19" 3 HP Extreme Series Bandsaw
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Sales of this outlet item are limited to quantity on hand.
Certified to UL & CSA standards!
- Motor: 3 HP, 220V, single-phase, TEFC capacitor start induction, 60 Hz, 12A, 1725 RPM
- Precision-ground cast-iron table
- Table size: 26-3/4" x 19" x 1-1/2" thick
- Floor to table height: 37-1/2"
- Cutting capacity/throat: 18-1/4"
- Maximum cutting height: 12"
- Blade size: 143" long
- Blade sizes available: 1/8" – 1-1/4"
- 2 Blade speeds: 1700, 3500 FPM
- Wheels: computer-balanced cast-iron with polyurethane tires
- Wheel covers: pre-formed, hinged steel
- Blade guides: dual ball bearing with full enclosure protection
- Bearings: sealed and permanently lubricated
- Footprint: 29-1/2" x 17-3/4"
- Overall size: 76"H x 36"W x 32"D
- Approximate shipping weight: 460 lbs.
- Blade tension indicator
- Micro-adjusting gear table
- Height scale measurement
- Fence with scale and magnifying window
- Deluxe cast-iron fence with extruded re-saw fence
- Includes miter gauge
- Two 4" dust ports
- Table tilt: 5° left, 45° Right
- Quick-change blade release/tensioning
- Rack and pinion upper guide adjustment
- Includes 3/4" 6-TPI hook blade
Made in an ISO 9001 factory
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4 Customer Reviews (5 out of 5 stars): Sign in to write a review
I'm very pleased with this band saw. The handle on the fence needs to be positioned under the table out of the way. The current position puts it right in the way. It would work just as well positioned lower out of the way.
I bought this well over three years ago, maybe 4 and I couldn't be happier with it! I've worked with and on all kinds, sizes and makes of band saws and I'm happier with this one than any other I have used to worked on. Plenty of power even with large aggressive blades and cutting rough stock right from the tree and also season limbs to make my own wood. Re-sawing is a breeze and depends much more on your blade selection, as this machine is more than capable of giving great results. If I was going to make a grip at all, the plastic table inserts are a bit on the lightweight side for a saw of this magnitude and I've broken one so far. Not bad at all. I have the standard trunion on mine and have had no problems. Since I have not used the cast iron ones, I don't know if they would make any big difference or not, but I intend on finding out if these stock ones ever start to loosen. No gipes or complaints, just a happy owner!
Do I recommend it? I sure do- whole heartedly! 6 STARS!!
Common Questions and Answers about the G0514X:
What is the difference between G0514X and G0514XF?
The main difference between the two is that G0514XF is equipped with a foot brake and it does not have CSA certification.
What are the pros and cons of ball-bearing blade guides?
Ball-bearing guides are designed to maintain contact with the moving blade, providing a constant level of support with minimal blade friction. They are extremely durable, maintenance-free, and typically the fastest and easiest to adjust because they can be accurately positioned by eye, rather than requiring a feeler gauge or dollar bill, such as with block or disc-type guides. The downside of ball-bearing guides is their comparatively smaller surface area of support than provided by blocks or discs. However, this is usually only a concern with blades larger than 1/2" wide, unless the saw is equipped with double guide bearings.
What is CSA? What does "CSA Certified" mean?
CSA (Canadian Standards Association) is an organization based out of Canada that is very similar to UL (Underwriters Laboratory) in the USA. Like UL, CSA provides two primary services. First, they develop Canada's minimum standards for the design, construction, and safety of a wide variety of products that are commercially sold in that country. These standards are completely voluntary and not a requirement for all products sold in Canada. Second, CSA acts as an NRTL (Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratory), which is essentially a 3rd party testing agency that has their own engineers/inspectors test and evaluate a product to ensure that it meets the requirements established in the applicable standards document for the primary market where the products are sold. In Grizzly's case, this is the USA and Canada, so many Grizzly machines are certified (usually by CSA, UL, or ETL) to meet both CSA (Canada) and UL (USA) standards. So, although CSA produces their own standards, any NRTL (such as UL, ETL, TUV, etc.) can also certify the same products to the CSA standards. The reason why one NRTL is used over another typically just boils down to a business decision by the company paying the NRTL to test/evaluate their products. An important part of any NRTL certification, besides the initial testing/evaluation, is the ongoing compliance requirements necessary to maintain the certification. This involves both regular and random product checks by the NRTL's inspectors or engineers at the factory or on the consumer level.
General Questions and Answers:
What are the pros and cons of Cast Aluminum versus Cast Iron Wheels?
The heavier mass and weight of cast-iron wheels reduces vibrations and creates a flywheel-effect, which helps the blade maintain a consistent speed during heavy cuts and when resawing. The drawbacks to this added weight and mass are that it requires more energy from the motor to get the wheels and blade up to speed; and unless the saw is equipped with a brake, it also takes longer for the wheels to come to a stop after the saw is turned off. Aluminum wheels, on the other hand, are much lighter and require less time and energy to get up to speed and bring to a stop, which is why they are ideal for many hobby saws and those that will mainly be used for general-purpose rip cuts and crosscuts, such as with 4/4 (1") or thinner stock.
What is the advantage of having double ball-bearing blade guides over singles?
Double ball-bearing guides don't provide any advantages for 1/2" or smaller blades, but they do provide a much greater level of support for 3/4" and wider blades. This is important if you're planning on doing a lot of resawing or other straight cutting where a high degree of accuracy is needed.
What are the differences between ball bearing, block, and disc (a.k.a. "Euro style") guide blocks?
The main differences between blade guide types can be boiled down to four factors: (1) amount/quality of support, (2) amount of blade friction created from that support, (3) ease of set-up and adjustment, and (4) durability and maintenance frequency. Ball-bearing guides offer the best all-around balance of these four factors. Although they don't provide as much contact area for support as block or disc guides, they do maintain constant contact with the blade without greatly increasing friction. They are also the easiest to set up and tend to be the most durable. Disc guides provide the highest amount of contact area for support, but as with guide blocks, they must be positioned 0.004" away from the blade, which requires some type of gauge to be used for proper set up. Whereas some disc guides are fixed, similar to block guides, our Euro-Style disc guides spin with blade contact, which greatly reduces friction and the need for regular resurfacing. Block guides offer excellent support, but unless they're made from specialized materials to reduce wear or friction, they tend to fall behind the other guide types in all other categories.
Can a metal bandsaw cut wood or vice versa?
The proper cutting speed for the majority of ferrous metals is under 300 FPM. The proper cutting speed for the majority of wood cuts is over 3000 FPM. Trying to cut metals on a wood bandsaw--at speeds 10 times faster than they should be--is dangerous and will likely result in a broken blade, damage to the bandsaw, and a really horrible cut. Cutting wood on a metal bandsaw is possible, but it would be tedious and slow, and likely would not produce a decent quality of cut. In addition, bandsaw blades for cutting wood are designed much differently than bandsaw blades for cutting metal. With that said, there are some soft, non-ferrous metals (such as aluminum) that can be cut at around 1500 FPM (if using the correct blade type). Although some of our wood bandsaws operate at approximately this same speed, the other components of these saws weren't designed to handle the metal chips and swarf that would be produced by the cut, which would likely result in minor damage to the machine and void the warranty. The bottom line is this: Always buy the right machine for the job!
How do I know what type of blade I should buy?
Blade choice is typically determined by the type and purpose of cut, the hardness and thickness of wood, and the desired trade-offs between cutting speed vs. cutting quality. In general, a wider blade is preferred for cutting straight lines because the blade tends to wander less, and a narrower blade is preferred for cutting curves because it has a much tighter minimum cutting radius. The two main types of blade teeth are "Hook" and "Raker". Hook teeth tend to cut faster and leave rougher results, while Raker teeth tend to cut slower and leave smoother results. There are additional types of teeth, such as Skip, Positive Claw, or AS-S, that are essentially modified versions of the Hook or Raker tooth shapes, but with slight changes to the cutting angle, gullet-to-tooth ratio, tooth set, etc. to provide unique advantages for special types of cuts.
What type of blade do I need for resawing?
Generally speaking, you'll want to use a wide blade (1/2" or larger) with "Hook" style teeth (or "Positive Claw" on Timberwolf blades) and a low number of teeth per inch (TPI). A wide blade helps ensure cuts are straight and the Hook style teeth have large gullets for removing material as the blade passes through the workpiece.
Which saw is best for resawing?
The key specs for resawing are the maximum cutting height and a larger motor size. Due to the amount of material being cut at one time, resawing puts a lot more strain on the motor than other types of cuts, so generally speaking, the more power the better. If you're using the proper blade type (a hook-type blade with few TPI) and a modest feed speed, you can get by making the occasional rip cut using a 1 HP-2 HP motor. Otherwise, if you plan on making regular resawing cuts, you'll get the best results with a 3 HP or larger motor.
My bandsaw blade came with a tag on it that said "Recommended for cutting wood or soft non-ferrous metal." Does this mean I can cut metal with my wood bandsaw?
Just because the blade is recommended for both wood and soft, non-ferrous metal (e.g. aluminum, copper, etc.), it doesn't mean your wood bandsaw is suitable for cutting both types of material. It is important to keep in mind that the blade you bought may also be used on other types of bandsaws, such as our G0640X or G0621X, which are specially designed to cut both wood and metal.
Can I still use my bandsaw without connecting it to a dust collector?
Yes, this is possible, but we don't recommend it. Without using a dust collector, the dust will quickly pile up in and around your machine, resulting in additional cleaning time later. Besides making a mess, fine dust can be harmful to your respiratory system. It is a better choice to connect your bandsaw to a properly designed dust collection system that at least pulls the recommended minimum CFM from each dust port on the machine.
What is the purpose of the pin that fits in the blade slot opening at the end of the table?
All bandsaw tables are inherently weaker on the outside half of the table. This is due to the slotted opening that allows the blade to pass through the table during blade changes. The table pin helps reinforce the two sides of the table around this slot, so they remain aligned with each other and keep the table flat. For this reason, it is extremely important to always keep the table pin firmly installed, unless you're changing blades.