Grizzly T25552 - Track Saw Master Pack
click to zoom
This track saw redefines the circular saw, making traditional circular saws obsolete! Its plunge-cutting action eliminates flip-up blade guards and its riving knife reduces the risk of pinching and kickback for a new revolution in safety. And, although this saw cuts like any other circular saw, the 55" Guide Rail is indispensable for making straight cuts when cutting wide panels. No more unsafe, over-extended reaching, and poor balance while cutting wide panels on a table saw! Once you use this Track Saw, you'll never go back to your old circular saw!
- Suitable for a variety of materials like solid wood worktops, double-coated MDF boards, etc.
- Infinitely variable cutting depth up to 2-5/32"
- Rail system for accurate and inclusive splinter-free cuts
- Non-slip backing on the underside of the rail for secure grip on the workpiece
- Sliding surfaces on the guide rail ensure smooth machine operation
- Built-in riving knife for anti-kickback protection
- Anti-tilt bar provides a secure grip on the guide rail for miter cutting
- Includes saw blade
- Continuous cutting depth limiter
- Anti-kickback protection
- Dust port for shop vacuum
- Motor: 120V, 9A, 1.1 kW
- Motor speed: 5500 RPM
- Blade rim speed: 9,070 ft per second
- Max cutting depth at 90D: without rail 2-5/32", with rail 1-31/32"
- Max cutting depth at 45D: without rail 1-5/8", with rail 1-7/16"
- Saw blade: 160mm x 20mm x 48 tooth
- Distance between saw blade and wall: 5/8"
- Dust port diameter: 1-1/2"
- Combined approximate shipping weight: 20 lbs.
Master Pack Includes: T10687 Track Saw, T24872 55" Guide Rail and T25094 Accessory Pack.
Accessories and Related Items:
You May Also Like:
Customers who purchased this item also purchased:
4 Customer Reviews (4.2 out of 5 stars): Sign in to write a review
I purchased the Grizzly Track Saw Master Pack and an extra 55" Guide Rail (track) several weeks ago and I find it to be an excellent product. My main motivation in this purchase was for better saw dust control and I find that it reduces the amount of saw dust at least by 95% over my old circular saw. I did find that attaching a vacuum hose (1.25 inch) was a bit of a challenge but I purchased a Shop Vac extension tube and cut the top section (8 or 9 inches) from it. This section has the friction fit for the vacuum hose's nozzle and I have held it in the swivel on the saw with electrical tape. So I can easily attach or remove the vacuum hose now. It would have been better if the swivel on the saw had fit directly.
The saw was easy to set up and after I locked down the adjustments for proper tracking, they have held that adjustment for over a month now. The depth of the cut can be easily adjusted in fine increments and I like that. This would be very nice when cutting a slot. The Allen wrench needed for these adjustments and for changing the saw blade was supplied with the saw.
I did find that the spring that retracts the blade out of the cut is a bit too strong. It takes too much force to keep the saw down and that makes it harder to control the cut. But the saw does work well, in spite of this. A lighter spring would be nice and I am searching for one that will fit. I may have to make my own.
My main complaint about this saw is the blade supplied with it. It is a 48 tooth, carbide blade with alternate rake teeth, apparently for cross cuts. This is fine and the blade seems to be well made, but the sharpening leaves a lot to be desired. The teeth have a rather rough finish and the side rake is not very large so it splinters the edge of the cut a lot. I have had to use wood filler on every cut I have made in plywood with this blade. I have tried pre-scoring the wood and using some masking tape on the wood and it helps, but does not eliminate this splintering. I have purchased a Freud blade with identical specs and it is like night and day. The teeth on the Freud blade have a mirror like finish and it leaves a completely clean edge, even without scoring or using the masking tape. I am going to try to see if a saw sharpening shop can improve the original blade so it is not a total loss.
Another area for improvement is in setting the position of the cut. There is no mark on the saw or provision on the track for positioning the track in relation to the desired cut line. I am thinking of making some kind of gauge pieces that can be attached to the track which will be exactly on the cut line. This should be easily done by just making them oversize and cutting them down with the saw itself. All I need is an aluminum magnet. :-)
A nice feature is the electric cord. It is not overly short as too many are today. I have a small shop and have not had to use an extension cord with it yet. Big plus. But, of course, your mileage may vary.
Overall it is a good saw and I like it. I am sure I will be using it for many future projects. Compared to other track saws that I looked at, it is a great value. The blade supplied with it is not good and I can not recommend it. If you buy this saw I recommend that you also buy a good 160mm diameter, 80mm arbor size, 2,2mm (3/32") width blade to go with it (suggestion: Freud # LU79R006M20 or Grizzly #T24416).
I bought this saw to cut counter tops. Cutting thick, and wide pieces highlights the problems with this saw. Don't really expect to get this saw and immediately start using it. It has a few problems:
1.) The saw wobbles on the track. This is caused by the two green low friction strips on the track being too close to each other which doesn't give a stable base for the saw to ride on. This causes a sloppy cut that is very evident when you cut thicker and wider pieces. It'll be tolerable on plywood, but the whole point of this saw is to have excellent table saw quality cuts from it.
2.) The stock blade is not very good. I cut one butcher block countertop and two of the carbide cutters came off due to poor brazing of the carbide to the steel, resulting in a poor cut when I needed a great one.
3.) Like mentioned in other reviews, the spring is unnecessarily stiff.
1.) There are a few ways to do this, some people have removed the green low friction strips and moved them outbound as far away from each other. Some have removed them altogether and put low friction tape in their place. Others have removed the low friction strips and placed low friction tape underneath the saw itself and its widest point. I'm trying out all of them now to see which is best.
2.) A new, high quality blade.
3.) Cut a few coils off the spring or buy a new 5/8" spring with a thinner gauge coil wire and cut to length. You can find one with some digging on amazon or ebay.
After doing much research, I thought the saw would wobble on the track, but the green runners have been spaced differently. I now notice no wobble as others have written about. I did cut apx 3/8" off the spring so it pushes down easier tho. The only thing I had to fiddle with was to put a bevel on the end of the adjoining track so saw wouldn't bump into it at connection point. I had already purchased a new 40 tooth Freud blade as advised by so many others and haven't used the blade that came w/ it. Consequently, I can't offer an opinion about the original. It may have been upgraded also, but can offer no opinion about its cut.
We keep getting more and more requests for "seamless top" farmhouse tables. This tracksaw far exceeded my expectations!!!! Check out Soulfulhavens_Topbuilder on IG to see samples!