I placed my order for the 5HP 1023RLWX on Sunday, 10-09. In between that date, and before they shipped it, I realized my garage wasn't equipped to run a 240V 5 HP motor. You need a 30A circuit to run 5HP. I called Grizzly and asked them to change the order down to the 240V, 3 HP, which only needed a 15A circuit. My garage had a 20A, so I was good to go. The 3HP saw was shipped, and it arrived on Thursday, 10-20. The saw arrived with boxes trashed. Thank you delivery service, for nothing! I was recovering from a serious motorcycle accident at the time, and using a walker with a bunch of broken bones, so the delivery driver moved it into my garage for me, and I tipped him $20 for the effort, as I have a long and sloped driveway. Because of my injuries, it took me a while to get everything set up and running, several months, in fact. I photographed everything with the driver right there, but forgot to note this on the delivery receipt. My bad - I was so pleased to finally get my new saw, I just wigged out. I ordered the 1023RLW with the router table attachment, thinking I would use this router table instead of a "stand-alone" version. I am very pleased to tell you that even though the boxes were absolutely trashed, there was not a mark, scratch, or dent on anything! Tip of the hat to the people putting this in the boxes overseas!
As I got it up and running, I purchased some equipment to help set up and calibrate the saw top and fence to the blade and miter slots. I did the testing on the blade to the miter slot first, to verify that the slots ran perfectly parallel to the blade, and to check run-out on the blade itself. I used the Woodpeckers Saw Gauge on a new Freud blade. NO run-out at all. I checked it several times, .001" or less on the blade to the miter slot. Can it get any better than that?
I installed the fence, and then thought better of it. I removed it and have never used the factory fence; it sits today in my garage, brand spanking new. I ordered a new Incra TS-LS combo with a 28"x32" table saw router table attachment, a router lift, and, of course, the Incra TS-LS fence. Nothing wrong, I'm sure with the Shop Fox fence, but I wanted the Incra for it's dead-on and instant measurement repeatability. After installing the Incra fence and router table on the right side of the blade, I thought I would replace the smaller cast iron table saw top plate on the left side of the blade with the (now unused) Grizzly router table. Although it would have worked just fine, (with homemade support legs, that is) I elected to keep the small table saw top plate on the left, and the Incra 28"x32" router table on the right. I'll offer the cast iron router table, legs, and fence with brackets for sale eventually.
I have now had a chance to use the saw, including both with a regular blade, a thin kerf blade, and a dado set. Every single cut has been perfectly straight, regardless of using the fence, or a miter gauge.
The wheels to raise/lower the blade seem to be on ball bearings; they are incredibly smooth in operation, with almost no resistance. The saw is quiet, compared to my old contractors saw, incredibly smooth, and ramps up to speed almost instantly. I hooked up a shop vac, with an adaptor, to the dust port; this doesn't really work that well; you really need some form of dust removal with much more suction and air movement than a shop vac. If you are considering purchasing a Cabinet saw such as this, you will need to spend the money for a real dust extraction unit, if you want to keep it clean. That's next on my list.
The electrical cord that comes with the saw is pretty short, maybe 5 or 6''. Take a photo of the male plug on the end of the saw cord with you to Lowe's or Home Depot, and buy the parts to make your own 220V extension cord. The plugs you will need are industry standard 6-15, and you will need both a plug and a receptacle. Although the owner's manual does not recommend an extension cord, they apparently get it that the factory cord is too short, and advise you to use an extension cord only if absolutely necessary, and only on a temporary basis. Mine is 18', and cost me about $30 in parts and wiring. It has worked extremely well, probably because I made it with 8GA. wire. The manual gives you a hint on this, on page 11; use minimum 14ga wire, and keep it under 50' for the 3HP 1023RLW models.
I cannot comment on the quality of the factory blade; I replaced it immediately with a Freud, with which I am very familiar, and use exclusively on my saws.
Overall, I am very, very, pleased with my purchase. The difference in cost between the router table version, 1023RLW, and the regular version, 1023RL, is just over $100 at this writing. Given that it will sell for at least that, I haven't lost any money. I would caution you to think twice about whether or not you are going to use this as a router, as I do, or not, and when you see and investigate an aftermarket router table option, you may think twice about ordering the 1023RLW.
If I had to do it over again, I would order the 1023RL, and add on the router accessories later. But I would order a Grizzly! I reviewed other saws on the market while bed-ridden and recovering from multiple surgeries - I had nothing else to do except lie there and hurt. All of the reviews and research I read and reviewed said the Grizzly was top notch, and by far and away the best bang for the buck. I agree. I compared it to both the Powermatic, and the SawStop cabinet saw versions; both were double the price, without offering, at that time, a router option. Double the price should get you twice the saw; in MY opinion, it does not.
I would strongly recommend that you consider this when you buy your next cabinet saw; this is the best value out there, in my opinion; I have been using table saws as a serious hobby for 19 years; this is the real deal.