Grizzly G0690 - 10" 3HP 220V Cabinet Table Saw with Riving Knife
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- Motor: 3 HP, 220V, single-phase
- Blade tilt: Left
- Table height from floor: 34"
- Table size with extension: 27" x 40"
- Arbor speed: 4300 RPM
- Arbor size: 5/8"
- Maximum dado width: 13/16"
- Maximum depth of cut @ 90°: 3-1/8"
- Maximum depth of cut @ 45°: 2-3/16"
- Maximum rip capacity: 29-1/2"
- Distance from front of table to blade at maximum cut: 12-1/4"
- Distance from front of table to center of blade: 17-1/4"
- Overall dimensions: 62"L x 41"W x 40"H
- Approximate shipping weight: 530 lbs.
- Includes 10" x 40T blade and H3308 Push Stick!
- Precision ground cast iron table
- Cast iron trunnions
- 4" dust port
- T-slot miter gauge
- Includes riving knife and blade guard
- Camlock T-fence with HDPE face
- Quick release devise for changing guard/riving knife
- Powder-coated paint
- Includes standard and dado table inserts
- Quick release riving knife
- Quick release motor guard
- Quick release splitter assembly
- Easy-glide fence system
- Knurled knobs for adjusting fence
- Nylon runners inside fence head assembly
- T-square type fence system
- Setscrew holding table insert down, with adjustable screws inside
- A precision hardened and ground polished cast iron top that is, AT THE VERY LEAST, equal to the saw you are comparing to
5 Customer Reviews (5 out of 5 stars): Sign in to write a review
Well, I have finally used my saw enough to do a proper review for you. As many of you know...I did some up-grades in the shop.....with a new 8" Jointer, http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/705 , A new 15" Planer http://lumberjocks.com/reviews/755 , a new 17" Band saw (No review yet) and a new Cabinet saw.
You can ask A1Jim, Todd C., Lenny and a few others....I about drove myself and them insane trying to decide what saw to buy...at first I was looking at a Steel City with a titanium top.....but I decided against that.
I then narrowed it down between this saw, and a Powermatic PM2000...and with as many new tools as I bought...every penny counted.
I was MORE than happy with the 8" Grizzly Jointer I bought...so I decided to go ahead and buy the Grizzly G0690. Here are some pictures of it in my shop...(Do not laugh, my shop is a wreck at the moment)
Let me start off by saying.... "I LOVE THIS SAW" ...assembly was a breeze....Nickle test ??? Try a "Pocket" full of nickles....I lined up 12 of them and fired it up, not a one fell, then I turned it off, got some wood, fired it up again and made a few cuts...and again nothing fell.
Power ??? after years of using a contractor saw and one wore out unisaw...I really did not know what to expect....but it passed any expectations I may have had. For the last week and a half I have been shoving 2" thick mahogany, red oak and maple through it....and I may as well been pushing paper through it. This thing sounded like a jet engine starting up in my shop...not in a bad loud way...just sounds powerful.
It has a great quick connect riving knife and splitter, just pull a pin, pull it out, switch them or put one in...all in about two seconds. The trunnion in this thing is a MONSTER...and I mean BIG....those cast wheels for adjusting...smooth as butter. Once you get it going, you can give it one good spin and it will almost free wheel all the way the other direction.
The cast iron top is so smooth and shiny it almost looks like a mirror, (In the second picture...that is not rust...but the reflection of the yellow box on my radial arm saw...now that's like a mirror). It comes with a factory blade insert and a dado insert, I ordered a zero clearance insert for it when I bought it ($26). While I will upgrade the miter gauge in time when I find one I like on sale, the factory miter gauge is actually pretty good and can be adjusted to take out all play in the T-slot miter tracks.
The fence, after a little adjustment, is straight as an arrow when wood is ran through the blade and down the fence.
There are MANY and I mean MANY good saws out there for almost every price range. But if you're looking for a power house of a saw...loaded with extra bells and whistles (But not so many that it is a pain) that cuts very true and accurate...I recommend trying out the new Grizzly G0690. I am pretty sure I just bought my last saw !!!
Edit: I forgot to add, the only tools you will need for this saw is a Phillips screw driver, a good straight edge, a 1/2 or 13mm wrench and socket and what ever you wish to use to align your blade, fence etc....Grizzly sends you almost every tool you need to assemble your tools....and while they may not be "Snap-on" quality..they are not punched metal either. You get a full set of long allen wrenches with a holder and a couple of wrenches with the saw it self, including two big heavy wrenches for blade changes. And then in each and every box, (Guard, fence, inserts etc) there is also the tools you will need to install just "That Piece"
Also, the directions say "Assembly time 1 hour"...lol...this may be true for a mechanical engineer....or if you want your square cut to be a triangle.....but plan on at least 5 to 6 hours of assembly time. I get a little "Obsessive" when it comes to trying to get my tools to a perfect tolerance...I know this is impossible with any tool...but I try anyways. With help, you can get this saw together and all the alignments done in about 3-1/2 to 4 hours....By yourself....between 5 to 6.
Purchased 4 yrs. ago. I use it nearly everyday and it has held up very well. I do a lot of continuous cutting and I have never had any problems with it.
Last spring I decided to replace my table saw. You all know the one. A Craftsman contractor saw that I bought at a garage sale over 20 years ago for $100. It was probably 10 years old then and it served me VERY WELL, but just wore out. The ol' girl had her limitations, I know what they were, and we got along quite well
As with most of us, I shopped the internet and various stores for a couple of months trying to decide which saw would be best for my small hobby shop. I'm an after-work and weekend project kind of guy, but the table saw is involved in each project I am involved with. Knowing that this saw would probably be an "over kill", I decided on G0690 and placed the order.
First, Let me tell you that this thing is well packed and is a BEAST to move around prior to the set-up. Invite a couple of your best friends over to unpack the thing and help you with the set-up. If you have the option to do the off-truck delivery, spend the money and do it. It weighs over 500 pounds. Also, Buy the optional wheel dolly to move it around the shop. It is well worth it.
The set-up was very straight forward, and only took us about 3 hours. (including beer time) As we assembled, we checked squareness of the blade and smoothness of the table several times after each task. The Blade squareness, and the angle adjustments were SPOT ON without any changes. The only set-up adjustment needed was in the fence--only because I am picky.
I also added a 48 inch out feed table to the back side of the saw. Sorry Grizzly, but I made new 3/8 in holes to the rear angle bracket of your brand new saw to accommodate this. Since I've never had an out feed table, I didn't know what I was missing. DO IT if you have the space!! I can take a sheet of plywood to the table saw, and rip it alone. I also have much better control of the smaller pieces going through the saw.
Well, only about 2 weeks after the set-up project, one of the "Friends" who helped with the set-up called in the favor. He pulled down several rough-cut 5/4 Maple boards that had been in his shed for well over 20 years. They were in various degrees of "straightness" and he asked if we could get them ready to build some side tables for his sofa. Time to test the saw.
OMG, what a saw! Please understand that I'm not used to this level of performance, but--- I pulled out all of my home-made straightening jigs, ran the boards through the saw, and it it didn't even know it was working. It is quiet, has No Vibration and will take anything you give it--even ripping 3 inch rough cut oak boards with no change in RPM. It is like a hot knife through butter.
So far, I'm a HUGE FAN of this saw. Now if it will give me the same longevity as the old Craftsman did, ----------
I was using a contractor table saw for my 2-car garage workshop and thought it wise to purchase an upgraded cabinet saw. One friend has a hybrid SawStop, and another has a Laguna. I was jealous of their great running machine. However, I decided to shop around and research all table saws-my wife was going to kill me on any amount I spent to upgrade.
I am not a professional and have not been woodworking very long, so this was the first time I have every heard of Grizzly. I was attracted by the low price and reviews of customer service. I decided to purchase the G0690 with mobile base.
Grizzly ships by freight, so your shipment will arrive in a few boxes on a tractor trailer. This is not an issue if you live in a normal residential area, however, I live in a gated complex. This did not seem to bother the driver; he stopped outside of my gate and pallet jacked it around the corner to my garage (Set up over the phone 30 minutes before arrival). I do have to give praise to Fedex freight; they were amazing, and they saw shipped faster than the approximate delivery date.
Putting it together was not as bad as I was expecting and my wife and I put it together in a couple hours. (You need 2 people!) The table shipped with great accuracy from the factory; I made very minor adjustments to the fence and fence rail.
I have been using it for almost 2 months and cannot be happier. I LOVE THIS TABLE SAW!! It cuts through hard wood like butter and I noticed that all of the inaccuracies I was having on my previous contractors saw was due to quality. This machine, as with all grizzly products, are built with quality.
I used the factory blade for a couple weeks and switched it out for a Diablo. This is the best investment and upgrade I have made to my garage workshop and I am out there everyday working on something. I recommend this saw to any amateur and professional woodworker. You cannot beat the quality for this price.
I heard some talk about the accuracy of the fence measurement reader and how it was lifted too high from the tape measurer on the fence. I noticed the same issue, and decided to mount the reader on the underside of the fence to make it more flush with the ruler. It works perfectly and now very precise (no special tools required, just screw it in from the bottom).
I cannot say enough good things about this table saw. My only complaint is my own dust collection set up. I am using a shopvac with Dust Right separator, and I am noticing it is not collecting the dust like I would want it to. However, with the cabinet saw, the dust will still collect inside the cabinet. Does anyone have any tips, or should I just upgrade to a better dust collection system? I do not want the motor to be affected down the line if I do not correct the problem.
I can't believe that is has now been 6-years since I bought my G0690. This was my first Grizzly machine and I continue to love it to death! I added the cast iron router extension, PLUS reused the OEM right extension for a solid cast iron table without having to use the original sheet metal extension. WOW! That really made this an amazing machine. Mounted on a Grizzly mobile base makes it a breeze to move when needed (doing sheet goods).
I had to drill matching holes to reuse the stock extension with the cast iron router extension but that was easy and well worth the effort. As far as the fence, it is great and works very well with the Grizzly adjustable Yellow Board Buddies anti-kickback wheels.
I have been so impressed with Grizzly, that I have also added a Grizzly 8in planer and a 20in drill press! All continue to surpass my expectations and perform admirably.
I recognize the names of other fellow woodworkers, from WWing blogs and share their positive impressions of this particular tablesaw. This saw is a keeper, and I do not think that I will ever have a need to replace it. Thanks Grizzly!
Common Questions and Answers about the G0690:
What are the main differences between the G1023RL-Series and the G0690-Series table saws?
Aside from color and outward appearances, there are 6 primary differences between these series of machines: the drive system, dust extraction components, switch lock-ability, blade guard spreader/riving knife release mechanism, the fence, and the country of origin.
What is the difference between the G1023RL-Series and G0690-Series belt-drive systems?
The G1023RL-series features a poly-V "Serpentine" belt-drive system, which is quieter and transfers power more efficiently than a standard single V-belt drive system. The G0690-series features a triple V-belt drive system, which does a better job of maintaining a consistent transfer of power when under load than a standard single V-belt drive system.
What is the difference between the G1023RL-Series and G0690-Series dust extraction systems?
The G1023RL-series encapsulates the underside of the blade with a dust hood that is connected directly to the dust port via an internal dust hose. This allows a dust collector to remove the majority of dust that falls through the table, and it helps keep the other components inside the cabinet clean. This system requires less cleaning and maintenance than that of saws where the dust falls straight through to the bottom of the cabinet. The G0690-series has a fully-enclosed cabinet with a sloped bottom that allows gravity to direct incoming dust toward the dust port.
What is the difference between the G1023RL-Series and G0690-Series mag switches?
The G1023RL-series features a lockable mag switch with an included key-lock padlock. The G0690-series features a mag switch that can also be disabled from accidental use with a special pin, but it does not accommodate a padlock, so it can't be completely locked.
What is the difference between the G1023RL-Series and G0690-Series blade guard spreader/riving knife release mechanism?
The G1023RL-series is equipped with a quick-release lever to unlock/lock the spreader/riving knife when changing between blade guards. The G0690-series is equipped with an easily-accessible knurled knob that unlocks/locks the spreader/riving knife with a quick rotation.
What is the difference between the G1023RL-Series and G0690-Series fence?
The G1023RL-series features the hugely popular Shop Fox Classic Fence, which has been a customer favorite for nearly two decades due to its adjustment simplicity and performance reliability. The G0690-series fence is very similar to the Shop Fox Classic Fence in all ways, except that it locks against the front rail on three sides instead of two. Aside from allowing it to lock more firmly in place, the added side of rail contact also provides an additional axis of adjustability when calibrating fence accuracy.
Can I install an H7507 extension wing router table on this saw?
Yes, but because the G0690/G0691 uses different fence rails than the G1023RL-Series saws, you will need to drill your own mounting holes in the H7507 to make it fit properly in place of the stock wing. Instead of going to all this work, we recommend getting the T10222 Router Table Extension, which was designed especially for this saw. Not only is this option much easier to install, but it also includes its own independent fence system, a starting pin, four miter slots, and an auxiliary support leg for increased stability.
General Questions and Answers:
How do I know which size of motor I'll need for my table saw?
Assuming the correct blade is installed for any specific type of cut, the answer primarily depends on these three factors: (1) your average stock thickness, (2) your typical wood type or variety, and (3) your anticipated cutting frequency or overall demands placed on the saw. First, it is important to note that with a slow enough feed rate, any of our table saws can cut through a piece of hardwood up to that saw's maximum cutting height. Unfortunately, using too slow of a feed rate can result in burn marks in your workpiece, and using a feed rate that is so aggressive that it causes a motor to bog down will quickly increase the motor's internal temperature to a state of thermal breakdown. Once a motor reaches this state, continued operation (without allowing sufficient cool-down time between cuts) will result in the motor becoming so hot that its winding insulation will completely fail and the motor will die. A larger motor, however, could easily perform the exact same type of work without ever reaching a state of thermal breakdown. With that in mind, your goal should be to select a motor size that will handle the majority of what you'll be cutting on a regular basis, without bogging the motor down. To translate this into a more practical perspective, generally speaking, a 1.5 HP motor used with an aggressive feed rate can repeatedly cut 6/4 (1.5") soft woods and 4/4 (1") hardwoods without bogging down. A 3 HP motor, on the other hand, can repeatedly cut the same type of stock with the same type of feed rate at approximately twice that size without bogging down.
What are the differences between contractor, hybrid, and cabinet saws?
A "Contractor" table saw is generally a light-duty saw with an open-stand and is usually equipped with a 1.5 HP to 2 HP motor that can be operated on a common 120V power supply, making it portable and convenient enough to take from jobsite to jobsite for carpentry work, trim work, and small cabinetry or furniture work. To keep the weight down, contractor saws often use sheet-metal wings instead of cast-iron wings, and their trunnions and other internal components use less cast iron or steel, making them much less beefy than those same components used in cabinet saws. A few other typical hallmarks of contractor saws are non-enclosed motors (making them slightly louder and sometimes resulting in a lack of dust collection) and trunnions mounted to the bottom of the table instead of the cabinet (making them slightly more difficult to align the blade to the miter slot or fence). The lighter-duty components used in their construction typically means that contractor saws also cost less than other saw types. The low cost, high portability, and convenience of operating on a 120V power supply, combined with included fence systems that often rival those used on cabinet saws, has historically made the contractor saw a favorite option for the hobbyist or beginning woodworker. A "Cabinet" table saw is a heavy-duty saw with an enclosed cabinet-style stand and usually a 3 HP or larger motor that operates on a 240V power supply, making it the top choice for professional woodworkers, serious amateurs, or production shops that require day-in and day-out reliability and the ability to regularly cut thick hardwoods. Unlike contractor saws, cabinet saws have much thicker castings for the trunnions and arbor assembly, which attach to the cabinet instead of the table (making blade alignment adjustments easier), and they usually have full cast-iron wings, which combined with the beefier trunnions and heavy cabinet stand, give them a lot more vibration-dampening weight. Additionally, the enclosed cabinet stands result in quieter operation and usually have much better dust collection. A "Hybrid" table saw is a newer category of saw that is considered to be a cross between a contractor saw and a cabinet saw. Like cabinet saws, hybrid saws typically have cabinets or stands with enclosed motors (providing quieter operation and easier dust collection) and trunnions that mount to the stand (making blade alignment adjustments easier). Like contractor saws, hybrids are generally constructed with lighter-duty components and materials (keeping costs and overall weight down), and they are usually equipped with 1.5 HP to 2 HP motors (allowing them to operate on a common 120V power supply). Because hybrid saws are often priced near contractor saws and they offer many of the additional benefits that cabinet saws provide over contractor saws, they are quickly becoming the saw of choice for the serious hobbyist or the professional woodworker on a budget.
How do I know what type of blade I should buy?
Blade choice is determined by the type and purpose of cut, hardness and thickness of stock, and desired trade-offs between cutting speed versus cut quality. Generally speaking, a blade with fewer teeth cuts faster but makes a lower quality cut, and a blade with more teeth cuts slower but makes a higher quality cut. We offer a wide variety of blades from a handful of different manufacturers. All of our blades are clearly designated by either blade function, cut type, or material type.
What is the purpose of the riving knife?
The riving knife is used for non-through cuts. It is a metal plate positioned in alignment behind the blade to prevent the newly-cut workpiece sides from pinching on or pushing against the backside of the blade and causing kickback. The riving knife also acts as a barrier behind the blade to reduce the risk of hands being pulled into the blade if they are positioned incorrectly when kickback occurs.
Can I still use my table saw without connecting it to a dust collector?
Yes, but we don't recommend it. Without using a dust collector, the dust will quickly pile up inside and around your machine, resulting in additional cleaning time later. Besides making a mess, fine dust can be harmful to your respiratory system. A better choice is to connect your table saw to a properly-designed dust collection system that at least pulls the recommended minimum CFM for your saw's dust port.
Can I cut metal or other non-wood materials with your table saws?
Although our table saws will physically cut many different types of materials, they are only designed to cut natural wood or wood-based materials (plywood, MDF, OSB, etc.). Cutting materials not intended to be cut on a woodworking table saw can result in serious injury to the operator or bystanders, and it could decrease the life of the saw and void the warranty.