Grizzly G0513X2 - 17" Bandsaw 2HP w/Cast Iron Trunnion
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- Motor: 2 HP, 110V/220V, single-phase, TEFC capacitor start induction, 60 Hz, 1725 RPM, pre-wired to 220V
- Amps: 20A at 110V, 10A at 220V
- Power transfer: Belt drive
- Precision-ground cast-iron table
- Table size: 23-5/8" x 17-1/4" x 1-1/2" thick
- Table tilt: 5° left, 45° right
- Floor to table height: 37-1/2"
- Cutting capacity/throat: 16-1/4" left of blade
- Maximum cutting height: 12"
- Blade size: 131-1/2" long
- Blade width range: 1/8" – 1" wide
- 2 blade speeds: 1700 and 3500 FPM
- Wheel covers: Pre-formed steel
- Blade guides: Ball-bearing with full enclosure protection
- Bearings: Sealed and permanently lubricated
- Overall size: 73" H x 32" W x 32" D
- Footprint: 27" L x 17-3/4" W x 2-1/2" H
- Approximate shipping weight: 418 lbs.
- Deluxe cast iron fence with extruded aluminum re-saw fence
- Includes miter gauge
- Two 4" dust ports
- Quick-change blade release/tensioner
- Blade tension indicator
- Micro-adjusting geared table
- Computer balanced cast-iron wheels with polyurethane tires
- Blade height scale measurement
- Blade tracking window
- Includes 1/2" 6-TPI hook blade
- Cast-iron table trunnions
- Rack and pinion upper blade guide height adjustment
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6 Customer Reviews (4.7 out of 5 stars): Sign in to write a review
Received my G0513X2 today.
Excellent machine, very impressed.
Packaged very well and setup was a breeze.
It was my first purchase from Grizzly, but won't be my last.
Thanks again for great service and fast shipping.
Wow, I'll say it again, Wow!!! I received my order this last Friday and had a chance Saturday to unpack the machinery and assemble the parts. Whoever designs these machines at your company needs to go to Hawaii for 3 weeks!! They are awesome! For example, I set up my Extreme Series bandsaw G0513X2 and you guys thought of everything. The trunnion that has a lever action, geared head to precisely angle the table top. A tall re-saw fence, a miter head that has a pin to slide in to accurately and repeatedly set 0 and 45 degree settings. And the list goes on. Then there was the shaper G5912Z that had all the bells and whistles. Ratcheting setting bolts for the sliding fence, just like your ratchet set of your socket set you have in your tool box! Spring hold downs and 3 spindles. I commend all of you at Grizzly for your well thought out, well designed, and yes mind reading abilities for machinery that is going to make my woodworking life a whole lot easier.
This will be kind of a "Dual" review... One over the G0513X2 17" Bandsaw, and one over Grizzly's customer service.
I received the Bandsaw several weeks ago, but because I had been so busy... I did not have time to even uncrate it. It stood in the corner of my shop for about a week and a half before I could even open it up and start to put it together.
I opened up the saw, looked it all over... no scratches, dents, blems etc.. so we're off to a good start. As I looked through the directions to make sure I had everything... I noticed I could not find a bag of hardware. Now there is VERY little assembly to do on this saw... basically four bolts for the bed... four bolts for the fence... and one knob/crank handle that needed to be added... (This knob raises the blade guide)... the bolts I could have lived with out... but I needed the knob/crank handle.
Now I have never really had to deal with Grizzly about a problem like this and was afraid that since the saw sat in my shop for almost two weeks before I noticed the missing parts... they would give me some trouble.
No such thing... I called Grizzly's customer service, told them what happened and why it took me so long to call them and all they said was... "We are very sorry for the inconvenience, what parts are you missing ?" After I told them what was missing they said "It will be shipped out tomorrow !" ...two days later the missing parts were sitting on my front porch. Not bad imo !!!
Now on to the saw... As I stated earlier... about eight bolts and one crank handle is all I had to put on. As far as adjusting all the settings... again, VERY easy... very easy to follow and precise directions. I really did not know what to expect when it came to adjusting this saw.
This G0513X2 17" Bandsaw took me about 30 minutes to adjust everything... and that was only because I was not used to this saw. Now that I know where all the different adjustments are and how to use them... it only takes about five to ten minutes to change out blades and to reset all the rollers to fit the new size blade... I was ALL smiles !!!
Accessories and options?? IMO this is a very well thought out saw. It has two different see through windows... one to see what your blade tension is at (Has a nice very easy to read scale for this) and another to watch the top of the top wheel to see how your blade is tracking. It has a large easy to use lever to release blade tension... and all of the adjusting wheels to set the tracking, raise or lower the blade support etc are large and easy to use.
The cast iron table is large and very easy to adjust and true up to the blade. It has cast iron wheels instead of aluminum and once I had the blade set proper ran smooth as silk and with no vibration. It also comes with a over sized re-saw fence that attaches to the existing fence in about five seconds.
Power ??? The largest lumber I have re-sawn so far is 12" wide mahogany... Once I got used to the saw and how to set up the fence... I made several dozen 1/16" thick slabs, all came out smooth as glass and it never bogged down a bit.
When I had done these same cuts on my old Rockwell... lets just say I would still be out in the shop pushing the wood through.
It also has a very neat "Rack and pinion" for the cast iron bed that works very well.
This is a GREAT bandsaw... plenty of power, plenty of nice options, good dust control... that I would highly recommend to ANYONE... it also has free shipping.
The ONLY negative thing I found was "One" adjustment for one of the bottom blade rollers... all of the rollers are locked with allen head bolts/screws... all work very well and all the allen wrench's are included. But one allen head under the bed toward the back... could not be adjusted with an allen wrench. When you but in the short end of the allen wrench you do not have room to turn it up and down without the long end hitting the bed or the saw body... and you can not put in the long end because it is too long and hits the saw body and goes in at a angle this is an easy fix by just swapping out the allen head for hex head bolt.
I have seen several reviews about forum members not even using the blade that comes with it... and I agree... when I ordered the new saw I ordered a full set of Timber Wolf blades to go with it. I am sure the factory blade would do fine for some light sawing... but there is no way it would stand up to any serious hard wood... so I didn't even try it... but put on a new Timber Wolf during the adjustment and set up stage.
This is my 3rd Grizzly machine. I have the 1023 table saw and the bench top jointer. All machines are excellent quality and performance.
The GO513X2 is an awesome performer. I looked at several different brands, some cheaper some more expensive. I wanted the best bandsaw available. I got the best with this bandsaw. I have had it for several weeks now and have used it plenty enough to write a review.
I have used everything from an 1/8" to 1" blade and the saw performs flawlessly. I will second the opinion to scrap the stock blade and order timberwolf blades. The saw is easy to adjust, powerful and smooth. The resaw fence is amazing.
This is just the way I set everything up, but I did not set the saw according to directions. I used Alex Snodgrass's method and the saw produces perfect cuts.
Great saw and I would buy 10x again.
I have had this band saw for about a month now and it is great. Very well made and pretty easy to set up. The only gripe I have with it is the fence. Look at where the tightening lever is positioned - right in the middle of the fence - and imagine trying position the fence to line up a mark on a long board with the blade. You can't do it because the board hits the lever. Whomever came up with this design never used a band saw. The lever should be in line with the fence, out of the way of the wood. A friend bought a G0513X2S a few years ago and the fence that came with that machine had the lever positioned out of the way of the wood. Bad design Grizzly. Would have given 5 stars if the fence was good.
This has proven to be an excellent bandsaw. It is heavy, stable and quiet. The first job out of the box was to resaw about 300LF of 8/4 walnut, SLR to 10-14" with one live edge. Didn't bog down once. This machine is flawless.
Common Questions and Answers about the G0513X2:
What makes this model different than the G0513?
The G0513X2 is equipped with cast-iron wheels, double ball-bearing blade guides, heavy-duty cast-iron trunnions, and a heavy-duty cast-iron fence with included optional resaw fence attachment.
What do I need to convert this machine to 110V?
First, review the circuit requirements in the Owner's Manual to make sure you have the appropriate 30A, 110V power supply circuit and wall receptacle installed in your shop. Converting the machine to 110V requires: (1) disconnecting saw from power supply, (2) removing existing power cord with 220V plug, (3) reconfiguring wire connections inside the motor junction box, and (4) replacing power cord with one that has the appropriate 110V plug and meets the required specifications detailed in the owner's manual. CAUTION: To reduce the risk of electrocution or fire, only an electrician or qualified service personnel should perform this procedure.
What is the advantage of having double ball-bearing blade guides over singles?
Double ball-bearing guides don't provide any advantages for 1/2" or smaller blades, but they do provide a much greater level of support for 3/4" and wider blades. This is important if you're planning on doing a lot of resawing or other straight cutting where a high degree of accuracy is needed.
What is the benefit of having cast-iron trunnions over aluminum trunnions?
Cast-iron trunnions give the table a more solid, robust support system, allowing it to better resist any flexing or twisting that may occur from really heavy workpieces being set on the table, especially on the outside ends of the table around the blade slot.
General Questions and Answers:
What are the pros and cons of Cast Aluminum versus Cast Iron Wheels?
The heavier mass and weight of cast-iron wheels reduces vibrations and creates a flywheel-effect, which helps the blade maintain a consistent speed during heavy cuts and when resawing. The drawbacks to this added weight and mass are that it requires more energy from the motor to get the wheels and blade up to speed; and unless the saw is equipped with a brake, it also takes longer for the wheels to come to a stop after the saw is turned off. Aluminum wheels, on the other hand, are much lighter and require less time and energy to get up to speed and bring to a stop, which is why they are ideal for many hobby saws and those that will mainly be used for general-purpose rip cuts and crosscuts, such as with 4/4 (1") or thinner stock.
What are the differences between ball bearing, block, and disc (a.k.a. "Euro style") guide blocks?
The main differences between blade guide types can be boiled down to four factors: (1) amount/quality of support, (2) amount of blade friction created from that support, (3) ease of set-up and adjustment, and (4) durability and maintenance frequency. Ball-bearing guides offer the best all-around balance of these four factors. Although they don't provide as much contact area for support as block or disc guides, they do maintain constant contact with the blade without greatly increasing friction. They are also the easiest to set up and tend to be the most durable. Disc guides provide the highest amount of contact area for support, but as with guide blocks, they must be positioned 0.004" away from the blade, which requires some type of gauge to be used for proper set up. Whereas some disc guides are fixed, similar to block guides, our Euro-Style disc guides spin with blade contact, which greatly reduces friction and the need for regular resurfacing. Block guides offer excellent support, but unless they're made from specialized materials to reduce wear or friction, they tend to fall behind the other guide types in all other categories.
Can a metal bandsaw cut wood or vice versa?
The proper cutting speed for the majority of ferrous metals is under 300 FPM. The proper cutting speed for the majority of wood cuts is over 3000 FPM. Trying to cut metals on a wood bandsaw--at speeds 10 times faster than they should be--is dangerous and will likely result in a broken blade, damage to the bandsaw, and a really horrible cut. Cutting wood on a metal bandsaw is possible, but it would be tedious and slow, and likely would not produce a decent quality of cut. In addition, bandsaw blades for cutting wood are designed much differently than bandsaw blades for cutting metal. With that said, there are some soft, non-ferrous metals (such as aluminum) that can be cut at around 1500 FPM (if using the correct blade type). Although some of our wood bandsaws operate at approximately this same speed, the other components of these saws weren't designed to handle the metal chips and swarf that would be produced by the cut, which would likely result in minor damage to the machine and void the warranty. The bottom line is this: Always buy the right machine for the job!
Can I still use my bandsaw without connecting it to a dust collector?
Yes, this is possible, but we don't recommend it. Without using a dust collector, the dust will quickly pile up in and around your machine, resulting in additional cleaning time later. Besides making a mess, fine dust can be harmful to your respiratory system. It is a better choice to connect your bandsaw to a properly designed dust collection system that at least pulls the recommended minimum CFM from each dust port on the machine.
What type of blade do I need for resawing?
Generally speaking, you'll want to use a wide blade (1/2" or larger) with "Hook" style teeth (or "Positive Claw" on Timberwolf blades) and a low number of teeth per inch (TPI). A wide blade helps ensure cuts are straight and the Hook style teeth have large gullets for removing material as the blade passes through the workpiece.
Which saw is best for resawing?
The key specs for resawing are the maximum cutting height and a larger motor size. Due to the amount of material being cut at one time, resawing puts a lot more strain on the motor than other types of cuts, so generally speaking, the more power the better. If you're using the proper blade type (a hook-type blade with few TPI) and a modest feed speed, you can get by making the occasional rip cut using a 1 HP-2 HP motor. Otherwise, if you plan on making regular resawing cuts, you'll get the best results with a 3 HP or larger motor.
My bandsaw blade came with a tag on it that said "Recommended for cutting wood or soft non-ferrous metal." Does this mean I can cut metal with my wood bandsaw?
Just because the blade is recommended for both wood and soft, non-ferrous metal (e.g. aluminum, copper, etc.), it doesn't mean your wood bandsaw is suitable for cutting both types of material. It is important to keep in mind that the blade you bought may also be used on other types of bandsaws, such as our G0640X or G0621X, which are specially designed to cut both wood and metal.
How do I know what type of blade I should buy?
Blade choice is typically determined by the type and purpose of cut, the hardness and thickness of wood, and the desired trade-offs between cutting speed vs. cutting quality. In general, a wider blade is preferred for cutting straight lines because the blade tends to wander less, and a narrower blade is preferred for cutting curves because it has a much tighter minimum cutting radius. The two main types of blade teeth are "Hook" and "Raker". Hook teeth tend to cut faster and leave rougher results, while Raker teeth tend to cut slower and leave smoother results. There are additional types of teeth, such as Skip, Positive Claw, or AS-S, that are essentially modified versions of the Hook or Raker tooth shapes, but with slight changes to the cutting angle, gullet-to-tooth ratio, tooth set, etc. to provide unique advantages for special types of cuts.
What is the purpose of the pin that fits in the blade slot opening at the end of the table?
All bandsaw tables are inherently weaker on the outside half of the table. This is due to the slotted opening that allows the blade to pass through the table during blade changes. The table pin helps reinforce the two sides of the table around this slot, so they remain aligned with each other and keep the table flat. For this reason, it is extremely important to always keep the table pin firmly installed, unless you're changing blades.