I bought this mill about a year ago for my garage shop and have been very happy with it. Its sturdy, well made for its price, and if you stay within its limits, does a good job machining metal parts.
Shipment to my home was uneventful and the lift gate service dropped it nicely in front of my garage. Before placing the stand in position, I modified it to improve its stability by bolting it to a sheet of 1" ply, and replaced the stock feet with heavier duty adjustable machine tool feet that reach through the plywood and rest on the ground. On its stand, the mill is a bit top-heavy, and the plywood sort of serves as an outrigger to avoid tipping in extreme situations (earthquakes, sliding the machine. etc.). Given its weight, I rented an automotive engine hoist to hoist the mill onto its stand.
The fit and finish of the machine was fine where it counts, but it had numerous places where it had to be detailed. I strongly recommend spending an hour or so with a hand stone to remove razor sharp edges from the ground surfaces and other metal parts, before cleaning and re-oiling the machine. Youll save yourself many sliced fingers over time.
I bought and installed the power feed (T23010) for the X-axis, a nice convenience and a must for uniform finishes using a flycutter. While it works well, I thought the limit switch housing too large and clunky and I absolutely hated the dangly cable connecting the switches to the main housing. I custom modified the unit with new compact limits and routed the wiring (now converted to low voltage DC) in the front channel of the mill bed.
Among the many accessories to get, I highly recommend splurging on a really good vise, like the 4 South Bend. Its worth it.
Now for the Z axis. Hand cranking the head of the mill up and down gets really old, really fast. Given the limited tool clearances of this small machine, the head needs to move a lot, for tool changes, cutter positioning, etc. A power lift for the Z axis is highly recommended. Grizzly makes an OK Z axis lift that cranks the head while retaining the hand wheel. Fine Z adjustments are still made by hand with the wheel. I built my own Z axis motor assembly that drives the hand wheel shaft with a toothed belt, eliminating the hand wheel altogether. This requires very fine control over the speed of the motor, since you want to be able to set the Z axis to less than 0.001. This was achieved by adapting an old Apple optical mouse to measure the rotation of the drive belt and to feedback control the motor. The arrangement allows head travel speeds from .001/sec to 0.35/sec, and jogging the motor allows sub-.001 movements. At full speed, it takes only 10 - 15 seconds to fully retract the head. Works great.
The only caveat I have about the G0759 is that it is a small drill/mill, so be prepared to get creative with the setup and tooling to fit bulkier parts on it for drilling or machining. For example, a chuck holding standard 1/2 drill bit has a clearance between the bit and the throat of a nice 4 vise of only 3, and only 5 1/4 to the bed of the mill. Obviously, smaller bits increase these numbers. One way to improve things is to use a collet to hold the drill instead of a chuck, but this limits the drill bit sizes that you can use. At any rate be prepared to bump up against the size limitations of a compact machine.